|
Posted by Richard on January 10, 2007, 9:13 am
> Around here, headroom above the stairs only needs to be 6' 8" on the
> leading edge of the stair tread (the same height as most doorway
openings).
I botched this in my original post. It's 6'8" here too.
> What kind of load is on the joist above the stairwell? If it's just a
> closet or something, you might be able to install multiple shorter joists
You must be clairvoyent. It is a closet. However,
and I could be seeing too linear, but the joist
under question is the brace for the other 6
cut joists. The next joist down the run is split
and even a novice like me wouldn't consider
using that as my new brace/sister. I really wish
I knew the right terms...I'd be boss then.
Thanks for the dialogue. It really helps
alot
> > This my problem now. I cut the stringer.
> > Rise = 7 3/4
> > Run = 9 3/4
> > This is still not steep enough to satisfy the 6' 10"
> > requirement on the bottom header. It measures
> > 6' 5" from the nose of the 4th step to the header.
>
> Around here, headroom above the stairs only needs to be 6' 8" on the
> leading edge of the stair tread (the same height as most doorway
openings).
>
> What kind of load is on the joist above the stairwell? If it's just a
> closet or something, you might be able to install multiple shorter joists
> (i.e. 4 - 2x4 joists, in place of a single 2x8 joist. You're so close to
> the 6' 8" headroom, it just might be all you need.
>
> If you can't enlarge the stairwell, you'll have to increase the rise
and/or
> decrease the run to make it fit the available space. Until recently (and
> probably still in some areas), code allowed an 8" rise on residential
> stairs. I don't know how many risers you have, but with 12 risers that
> extra 1/4" would give you the additional 3" you need.
>
> I had a similar situation when I rebuilt the stairs for our garage attic.
I
> couldn't enlarge the stairwell opening because it was in the corner of the
> building, and headroom in the attic was already tight. And I needed even
> more room because of the 10' ceiling in our garage. I ended up using an
> 8.25" rise with a 9" run, and installed 2x10's (9.25" deep) for my stair
> treads. It doesn't meet current codes, but we find it to be very
> comfortable to navigate, even with arm loads of boxes.
>
> As for hanging the top of the stair treads, I used metal strapping (my
> stair stringer starts one step down from the floor). I nailed the
strapping
> to the bottom of the stringer, bent it up around the edge that meets the
> floor joist, then extend it up the full height of the floor joist. Once
the
> strap is nailed to the joist it makes a very strong connection. Nailing
> into the bottom of the stringer eliminates any risk of splitting the
> stringer, and the strapping takes very little space from the run. I
> installed three stringers for a stronger stair.
>
> We're actually getting ready to do some remodeling at my in-laws house.
> Their basement stairs currently have 5' 6" of headroom over the treads,
and
> go directly under a bathtub. I'm 6 feet tall, so it takes some real
ducking
> to go down to their basement. :) Obviously, no amount of fiddling with the
> rise or run is going to make a code approved stair fit in that space. So,
> we're planning to remove part of the back porch and rotate the stairs 90
> degrees so we can get full headroom over the stairs. Of course, that means
> relocating the septic line. It quickly turns into a domino effect... :)
>
> Anthony
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap