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Thermostat Randy 02-18-2008
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Posted by Craig M on February 20, 2008, 3:49 pm
did not think about dogs that chew, the dog we had done this for, was not a
chewer, like my 3 are now, labs will chew on most anything, they love
cutoffs from the power miter saw. sticks from the yard, all the money my
wife spends on chew toys, they go for a stick.

> On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 06:15:14 -0600, "Craig M"
>
>>Here is one more idea for you:
>>Use the foil covered foam insulation on the floor, cover with a blanket,
>>use
>>a old fashioned heating pad, yes they are still out there, put another
>>blanket on top of it, route the cord out of the dog house, set it to low,
>>or
>>at most to med, for realy cold nights, kept one of our dogs warm for many
>>winters, some cold days she would never leave the bed we fixed for her.
>
> For many dogs this is not a good idea. They like to chew on things and
> eventually they'll chew the heating pad. As well, you'd need to
> regularly inspect the pad for damage to prevent electircal shock
> hazards... If Fido gets zapped he won't go back into that dog house
> ever again! <bg>
>
> A slightly better solution would be roof heating tape with a built in
> thermostat, installed on the roof (less likely to get chewed) which
> would radiate heat downwards.
>
> But, seriously...
>
> A properly designed and sized (not too large!) dog house should not
> require heat at all, the dog's body heat will warm it up nicely. I've
> years of experience in this (in NH where it can get damned cold) with
> German Shepards who lived 100% outdoors year round. I used a dog house
> called a 'DogLoo' (that's probably badly spelled) made of plastic.
> Indestructable. Always had a bed of straw (renew the straw as needed,
> usually every fwe months).
>
> A small 50 watt lightbulb would be sufficient for virtually any heat
> requirements as well, and there would be no reason to ever turn it off
> (in the winter) either.
>
> BTW, electric dog water bowls are vital to allow the dog to have fresh
> water as needed, though most dogs will choose to eat snow if they can
> get it...
>



Posted by Dioclese on February 20, 2008, 9:09 pm


> On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 06:15:14 -0600, "Craig M"
>
>>Here is one more idea for you:
>>Use the foil covered foam insulation on the floor, cover with a blanket,
>>use
>>a old fashioned heating pad, yes they are still out there, put another
>>blanket on top of it, route the cord out of the dog house, set it to low,
>>or
>>at most to med, for realy cold nights, kept one of our dogs warm for many
>>winters, some cold days she would never leave the bed we fixed for her.
>
> For many dogs this is not a good idea. They like to chew on things and
> eventually they'll chew the heating pad. As well, you'd need to
> regularly inspect the pad for damage to prevent electircal shock
> hazards... If Fido gets zapped he won't go back into that dog house
> ever again! <bg>
>
> A slightly better solution would be roof heating tape with a built in
> thermostat, installed on the roof (less likely to get chewed) which
> would radiate heat downwards.
>
> But, seriously...
>
> A properly designed and sized (not too large!) dog house should not
> require heat at all, the dog's body heat will warm it up nicely. I've
> years of experience in this (in NH where it can get damned cold) with
> German Shepards who lived 100% outdoors year round. I used a dog house
> called a 'DogLoo' (that's probably badly spelled) made of plastic.
> Indestructable. Always had a bed of straw (renew the straw as needed,
> usually every fwe months).
>
> A small 50 watt lightbulb would be sufficient for virtually any heat
> requirements as well, and there would be no reason to ever turn it off
> (in the winter) either.
>
> BTW, electric dog water bowls are vital to allow the dog to have fresh
> water as needed, though most dogs will choose to eat snow if they can
> get it...
>

Built a dog house in the side of hill. 6'X6'X3.5' high. Cinder block
construction on a 6" deep slab. Cinder blocks are concrete filled with
rebar to boot inside to the slab. Painted inside and out with basement type
paint to block water intrusion. Front opening cover is a rubber mat cut
just a hair smaller than the opening. 2x4 frame, slanted roof, steel roof
covering, with insulation between rafters.

Seen the 2 dogs in it twice. Been over a year. Tried all kinds of floor
coverings. Nothing works. They sleep outside on the porch.

Considering moving all my flammables from the garage to the dog house...
--
Dave



Posted by PeterD on February 21, 2008, 9:05 am
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 20:09:48 -0600, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:


>
>Built a dog house in the side of hill. 6'X6'X3.5' high.

Way too big if you expect it to be warmed by the dog's body heat. I've
never seen a dog that would be big enough for this sized dog
house--even two dogs are not going to work. Just plain too large.

>Cinder block
>construction on a 6" deep slab. Cinder blocks are concrete filled with
>rebar to boot inside to the slab.

Alternate bomb shelter, too? <bg>

>Painted inside and out with basement type
>paint to block water intrusion. Front opening cover is a rubber mat cut
>just a hair smaller than the opening. 2x4 frame, slanted roof, steel roof
>covering, with insulation between rafters.
>
>Seen the 2 dogs in it twice. Been over a year. Tried all kinds of floor
>coverings. Nothing works. They sleep outside on the porch.

Dogs vary in what they want, and like. Straw works well for me, and
the dogs like it.

>
>Considering moving all my flammables from the garage to the dog house...

Probably the best use for it.

There are formulas for dog house sizing, and maybe consult one when
you build the next one? <g>

Posted by Glenn on February 21, 2008, 10:44 am

> On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 20:09:48 -0600, "Dioclese" <NONE>
> wrote:
>>Cinder block
>>construction on a 6" deep slab. Cinder blocks are
>>concrete filled with
>>rebar to boot inside to the slab.
>
> Alternate bomb shelter, too? <bg>
>
>>Painted inside and out with basement type
>>paint to block water intrusion. Front opening cover
>>is a rubber mat cut
>>just a hair smaller than the opening. 2x4 frame,
>>slanted roof, steel roof
>>covering, with insulation between rafters.
>>
Based on your description, I can't imagine what an out
house you would build would look like. [g]


Posted by PeterD on February 21, 2008, 2:56 pm

>
>> On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 20:09:48 -0600, "Dioclese" <NONE>
>> wrote:
>>>Cinder block
>>>construction on a 6" deep slab. Cinder blocks are
>>>concrete filled with
>>>rebar to boot inside to the slab.
>>
>> Alternate bomb shelter, too? <bg>
>>
>>>Painted inside and out with basement type
>>>paint to block water intrusion. Front opening cover
>>>is a rubber mat cut
>>>just a hair smaller than the opening. 2x4 frame,
>>>slanted roof, steel roof
>>>covering, with insulation between rafters.
>>>
>Based on your description, I can't imagine what an out
>house you would build would look like. [g]

Would have to be two stories, right? <g>

I'm reminded of that Discovery Channel show where they built the
'ultimate' doghouse. It was amazing what they did, but I doubt the
dogs gave a rat's ass when it was done.

We tend to apply our (human) values to animals, and sometimes that
doesn't work well. One of the first things I learned was that dog
houses were seldom too small, but were often too large.

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