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Thoughts needed on Cheap Wood Floor Idea MissyM 08-05-2007
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Posted by MissyM on August 5, 2007, 10:12 pm
Hi Group --

I am hoping there is someone out there with some experience with crazy
ideas. I know that this is kind of a hard question and that's why I'm
appealing to the group for help. I want to run it past y'all because
I'm worried that it won't work (even though I can't think of a single
reason why - except that it is too cheap to work). I was thinking of
getting these great Doug Fir strips (1"x4") that are sold for indoor
trim and nailing down to the plywood subfloor in my living room. I
know that Doug Fir is soft and that is okay because I'm going for the
rustic look. I was thinking of nailing them down, sanding, staining
and varnishing them.

I would so love it if someone with some experience with wood floors or
with Doug Fir could give me their two cents worth! If you think it's
a bad idea, let me know! The problem is that I have a limited budget
and in need something REAL. I could do pine, too, if that would be
better. I stained some pine and some doug fir and it looked great.
Any thoughts or ideas would be welcomed!! I have a budget of about $1/
square foot.

Thanks --

MissyM


Posted by marson on August 5, 2007, 10:27 pm
> Hi Group --
>
> I am hoping there is someone out there with some experience with crazy
> ideas. I know that this is kind of a hard question and that's why I'm
> appealing to the group for help. I want to run it past y'all because
> I'm worried that it won't work (even though I can't think of a single
> reason why - except that it is too cheap to work). I was thinking of
> getting these great Doug Fir strips (1"x4") that are sold for indoor
> trim and nailing down to the plywood subfloor in my living room. I
> know that Doug Fir is soft and that is okay because I'm going for the
> rustic look. I was thinking of nailing them down, sanding, staining
> and varnishing them.
>
> I would so love it if someone with some experience with wood floors or
> with Doug Fir could give me their two cents worth! If you think it's
> a bad idea, let me know! The problem is that I have a limited budget
> and in need something REAL. I could do pine, too, if that would be
> better. I stained some pine and some doug fir and it looked great.
> Any thoughts or ideas would be welcomed!! I have a budget of about $1/
> square foot.
>
> Thanks --
>
> MissyM

Well Missy, it can be done that way. You will definitely have gaps
between the boards that will widen in time and will fill with dirt.
The boards may cup and the edges will come up. Doug fir is also bad
for splinters. But if you like rustic, it could be done. I'd use
lots of ring shank nails. Also wondering where you are finding fir
trim boards for about $1.00 a board foot.

An alternative would be to make your own flooring by cutting slots in
the edges of the boards with a router, and inserting thin strips of
wood to act as tongues. Then it could be stapled down with a flooring
stapler. This would not cost that much more, but would result in a
much better floor. It would take a ton of work, and require tools
that you may not have.


Posted by MissyM on August 5, 2007, 11:37 pm
I'm I going to have gaps because of the wood changing size because of
the change in temperatures over the seasons? Is that the same reson
the boards may cup? I guess boards don't cup on regular hardwood
floors because they have the T&G action happening. I appreciate your
advice. I would hate to throw away whatever money I have on a project
that is a bad plan. I'm trying to get a realistic idea of how it will
turn out. It's Home Depot that has Doug Fir and Pine for about $2.25
for a 1 x 4 x 8. There are some knots.

MissyM.


Posted by CWatters on August 6, 2007, 4:49 am

> I'm I going to have gaps because of the wood changing size because of
> the change in temperatures over the seasons? Is that the same reson
> the boards may cup? I guess boards don't cup on regular hardwood
> floors because they have the T&G action happening.

Hardwood floors can cup as well - even if T&G.

The wider the board the more the risk. It's important that the wood has the
right moisture level when it's fitted. If it's too high then as it dries
it's at risk of cupping and moving in other ways.

We wanted wide oak boards for our new house but because we had UFH we used
engineered oak to reduce the risk.

> I appreciate your
> advice. I would hate to throw away whatever money I have on a project
> that is a bad plan. I'm trying to get a realistic idea of how it will
> turn out. It's Home Depot that has Doug Fir and Pine for about $2.25
> for a 1 x 4 x 8. There are some knots.

I think it would be a lot of work for too much risk.



Posted by PeterD on August 6, 2007, 7:54 am
wrote:

>I'm I going to have gaps because of the wood changing size because of
>the change in temperatures over the seasons?

Yes, and overall drying as well. And heavn forbid it shoudl get wet!

>Is that the same reson
>the boards may cup?

Yep, you understand

>I guess boards don't cup on regular hardwood
>floors because they have the T&G action happening.

Again, that's good thinking.

>I appreciate your
>advice. I would hate to throw away whatever money I have on a project
>that is a bad plan. I'm trying to get a realistic idea of how it will
>turn out. It's Home Depot that has Doug Fir and Pine for about $2.25
>for a 1 x 4 x 8. There are some knots.

Softwood floors are used in some older New England homes, and
certainly do show wear quickly. but if you are after rustic look, then
it is practical to a certain extent.

Another alternative that will give better results and life is
engineered flooring (Pergo, and other similar products). I've
installed these at half the cost of hardwood, and had results that
when I go back and look are excellent even in high traffic areas.

>
>MissyM.

One suggestion: don't stain a softwood floor. Eventually the finish
and stain will wear off and it will be a PITA to 'patch' those areas
without refinishing the entire floor. Just varnish or clear finish
without changing the color, then when you patch wear spots (near
doors, etc.) you can sand and not have to match old stain.

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