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Thoughts needed on Cheap Wood Floor Idea

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Thoughts needed on Cheap Wood Floor Idea MissyM 08-05-2007
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Posted by John Grabowski on August 7, 2007, 8:45 am

> I'm I going to have gaps because of the wood changing size because of
> the change in temperatures over the seasons? Is that the same reson
> the boards may cup? I guess boards don't cup on regular hardwood
> floors because they have the T&G action happening. I appreciate your
> advice. I would hate to throw away whatever money I have on a project
> that is a bad plan. I'm trying to get a realistic idea of how it will
> turn out. It's Home Depot that has Doug Fir and Pine for about $2.25
> for a 1 x 4 x 8. There are some knots.
>
> MissyM.
>

Go to several lumber yards and see what they have available. I have found
the selection and quality is always better at a lumber yard. They may even
have some alternatives that you might like. You can sometimes ask for a
discount if you are buying quantity.


Posted by Craig M on August 6, 2007, 7:05 am
I have T&G pine in my house for floors, was in the house when I bought the
house, had a polyurethane finish, last year I worked on sanding it off, just
the poly, and waxing the buffing the floor, like the less shiny wax look
better, has more of a glow then a shine from the poly. tounge and grouve
pine is avaible at Home Depot and Lowes, its 3/8ths thick not 3/4's as the
floor in here is now, it can be used as wainscoating for your walls as well.
> Hi Group --
>
> I am hoping there is someone out there with some experience with crazy
> ideas. I know that this is kind of a hard question and that's why I'm
> appealing to the group for help. I want to run it past y'all because
> I'm worried that it won't work (even though I can't think of a single
> reason why - except that it is too cheap to work). I was thinking of
> getting these great Doug Fir strips (1"x4") that are sold for indoor
> trim and nailing down to the plywood subfloor in my living room. I
> know that Doug Fir is soft and that is okay because I'm going for the
> rustic look. I was thinking of nailing them down, sanding, staining
> and varnishing them.
>
> I would so love it if someone with some experience with wood floors or
> with Doug Fir could give me their two cents worth! If you think it's
> a bad idea, let me know! The problem is that I have a limited budget
> and in need something REAL. I could do pine, too, if that would be
> better. I stained some pine and some doug fir and it looked great.
> Any thoughts or ideas would be welcomed!! I have a budget of about $1/
> square foot.
>
> Thanks --
>
> MissyM
>



Posted by dpb on August 7, 2007, 9:25 am
MissyM wrote:
> Hi Group --
>
> I am hoping there is someone out there with some experience with crazy
> ideas. I know that this is kind of a hard question and that's why I'm
> appealing to the group for help. I want to run it past y'all because
> I'm worried that it won't work (even though I can't think of a single
> reason why - except that it is too cheap to work). I was thinking of
> getting these great Doug Fir strips (1"x4") that are sold for indoor
> trim and nailing down to the plywood subfloor in my living room. I
> know that Doug Fir is soft and that is okay because I'm going for the
> rustic look. I was thinking of nailing them down, sanding, staining
> and varnishing them.
>
> I would so love it if someone with some experience with wood floors or
> with Doug Fir could give me their two cents worth! If you think it's
> a bad idea, let me know! The problem is that I have a limited budget
> and in need something REAL. I could do pine, too, if that would be
> better. I stained some pine and some doug fir and it looked great.
> Any thoughts or ideas would be welcomed!! I have a budget of about $1/
> square foot.

Fir works well as does pine. Fir does have a tendency to split on edges
that makes it a little more difficult to work with but once finished it
will be fine.

That said, I can't really recommend the idea of random 1x4 stock laid as
a floor unless the idea is a _very_ rustic cabin or you're willing to
mill them before laying it. Stock won't be all that straight and more
importantly, won't be exactly uniform in width from piece to piece so
you won't be able to get a good joint initially, what more after some
shrinkage. Material sold as construction grade 1x, while dried, is not
dried to the extent that flooring is and as others have noted, moisture
is the enemy here.

You can get unfinished #3C oak flooring for around $1/sq-ft which _is_
manufactured to the same specifications as #1C, just has more knots and
other wood imperfections which shouldn't be a problem for your desired look.

Here's one online source, most good flooring distributors will have
similar or even better closeouts, etc. The other place to look is for
places like the Rail Salvage or similar overstock/closeout merchandisers
in your location...

http://www.internetlumber.com/lumber-products/Northern-Red-Oak-Floor

--

Posted by hebinwi on August 8, 2007, 8:24 am
> MissyM wrote:
> > Hi Group --
>
> > I am hoping there is someone out there with some experience with crazy
> > ideas. I know that this is kind of a hard question and that's why I'm
> > appealing to the group for help. I want to run it past y'all because
> > I'm worried that it won't work (even though I can't think of a single
> > reason why - except that it is too cheap to work). I was thinking of
> > getting these great Doug Fir strips (1"x4") that are sold for indoor
> > trim and nailing down to the plywood subfloor in my living room. I
> > know that Doug Fir is soft and that is okay because I'm going for the
> > rustic look. I was thinking of nailing them down, sanding, staining
> > and varnishing them.
>
> > I would so love it if someone with some experience with wood floors or
> > with Doug Fir could give me their two cents worth! If you think it's
> > a bad idea, let me know! The problem is that I have a limited budget
> > and in need something REAL. I could do pine, too, if that would be
> > better. I stained some pine and some doug fir and it looked great.
> > Any thoughts or ideas would be welcomed!! I have a budget of about $1/
> > square foot.
>
> Fir works well as does pine. Fir does have a tendency to split on edges
> that makes it a little more difficult to work with but once finished it
> will be fine.
>
> That said, I can't really recommend the idea of random 1x4 stock laid as
> a floor unless the idea is a _very_ rustic cabin or you're willing to
> mill them before laying it. Stock won't be all that straight and more
> importantly, won't be exactly uniform in width from piece to piece so
> you won't be able to get a good joint initially, what more after some
> shrinkage. Material sold as construction grade 1x, while dried, is not
> dried to the extent that flooring is and as others have noted, moisture
> is the enemy here.
>
> You can get unfinished #3C oak flooring for around $1/sq-ft which _is_
> manufactured to the same specifications as #1C, just has more knots and
> other wood imperfections which shouldn't be a problem for your desired look.
>
> Here's one online source, most good flooring distributors will have
> similar or even better closeouts, etc. The other place to look is for
> places like the Rail Salvage or similar overstock/closeout merchandisers
> in your location...
>
> http://www.internetlumber.com/lumber-products/Northern-Red-Oak-Floor
>
> --- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I have a log cabin in the woods with 6 dogs, 3 cats and wife. We have
tongue and groove knotty pine floors with 3 coats of polyurethane.
They have served well for 12 years and only now are in need of some
touchup refinishing in high traffic areas. The get a LOT of abuse,
eg. dog toenails and sand from outside. I think the original cost was
around 50 cents/foot. They look rustic that fits the look of the
cabin and we like it. Shrinkage has been minimal. The only minor
problem has been a few of the knots have come out and catch dirt.

Harry



Posted by dpb on August 8, 2007, 9:31 am
hebinwi wrote:
>> MissyM wrote:
...
>>> getting these great Doug Fir strips (1"x4") that are sold for indoor
>>> trim and nailing down to the plywood subfloor in my living room. ...

...

>> Fir works well as does pine. Fir does have a tendency to split on edges
>> that makes it a little more difficult to work with but once finished it
>> will be fine.
>>
>> That said, I can't really recommend the idea of random 1x4 stock laid as
>> a floor unless the idea is a _very_ rustic cabin or you're willing to
>> mill them before laying it. ...

> I have a log cabin in the woods with 6 dogs, 3 cats and wife. We have
> tongue and groove knotty pine floors with 3 coats of polyurethane.
> They have served well for 12 years and only now are in need of some
> touchup refinishing in high traffic areas. The get a LOT of abuse,
> eg. dog toenails and sand from outside. I think the original cost was
> around 50 cents/foot. They look rustic that fits the look of the
> cabin and we like it. Shrinkage has been minimal. The only minor
> problem has been a few of the knots have come out and catch dirt.
...

T&G I'd agree w/ fully -- OP was asking about run-of-the-mill
construction-grade 1x trim stock. I suggested it would be ok too if it
were milled before laying, but I suspect that's beyond capabilities...

--

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