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Trusses not over studs?

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Trusses not over studs? AustinScoobee 07-10-2006
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Posted by Bob Morrison on July 10, 2006, 4:20 pm
In a previous post Wayne Whitney wrote...
> My understanding is that you are off by one here: if the studs/trusses
> are perfectly aligned everywhere, I believe the building code allows a
> single top plate (with the proper splice detail). Using a double top
> plate is standard practice precisely because it allows the
> studs/trusses to be offset.
>

Wayne is correct. Not to mention that once you add solid sheathing on the
wall the double top plate is not going to go anywhere without destroying
the sheathing.

BTW, there is another reason to use a double top plate: chord forces in
the roof or floor diaphragm. It is possible to use a single top plate,
but the diaphragm cannot be very large and you must strap across any
splices to provide load continuity. The use of a double top plate
provides two benefits: studs and roof members don't have to be aligned and
chord splices are done by offsetting the ends of the plates.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

Posted by AustinScoobee on July 10, 2006, 4:46 pm
Indeed, the double top plate has interlocked endplates, and in
addition, since the framing members are all 2X6, this also means the
top is 2X6 double plate..pretty strong I would think.. Anyhow, so long
as the building inspector sees nothing wrong with the arrangement, I
feel pretty comfortable with it now, I even called a local truss
company, who confirmed (in thier opinion) that this is done very often,
and in fact there were indeed certain instances where even fewer lined
up with the studs..(trusses over curved/angled walls)

Once again, thanks very much to the group and you're input!
G




Bob Morrison wrote:
> In a previous post Wayne Whitney wrote...
> > My understanding is that you are off by one here: if the studs/trusses
> > are perfectly aligned everywhere, I believe the building code allows a
> > single top plate (with the proper splice detail). Using a double top
> > plate is standard practice precisely because it allows the
> > studs/trusses to be offset.
> >
>
> Wayne is correct. Not to mention that once you add solid sheathing on the
> wall the double top plate is not going to go anywhere without destroying
> the sheathing.
>
> BTW, there is another reason to use a double top plate: chord forces in
> the roof or floor diaphragm. It is possible to use a single top plate,
> but the diaphragm cannot be very large and you must strap across any
> splices to provide load continuity. The use of a double top plate
> provides two benefits: studs and roof members don't have to be aligned and
> chord splices are done by offsetting the ends of the plates.
>
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com


Posted by Bill on July 10, 2006, 5:48 pm
'chord forces, chord splices', I have not heard of these terms. Do they
have something to do with pulling apart? Like a collar tie?


--
remove one of the @'s unless you are a spammer.
> In a previous post Wayne Whitney wrote...
>> My understanding is that you are off by one here: if the studs/trusses
>> are perfectly aligned everywhere, I believe the building code allows a
>> single top plate (with the proper splice detail). Using a double top
>> plate is standard practice precisely because it allows the
>> studs/trusses to be offset.
>>
>
> Wayne is correct. Not to mention that once you add solid sheathing on the
> wall the double top plate is not going to go anywhere without destroying
> the sheathing.
>
> BTW, there is another reason to use a double top plate: chord forces in
> the roof or floor diaphragm. It is possible to use a single top plate,
> but the diaphragm cannot be very large and you must strap across any
> splices to provide load continuity. The use of a double top plate
> provides two benefits: studs and roof members don't have to be aligned and
> chord splices are done by offsetting the ends of the plates.
>
> --
> Bob Morrison, PE, SE
> R L Morrison Engineering Co
> Structural & Civil Engineering
> Poulsbo WA
> bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com



Posted by Bob Morrison on July 10, 2006, 7:58 pm
> 'chord forces, chord splices', I have not heard of these terms. Do they
> have something to do with pulling apart? Like a collar tie?
>

This is arcane engineer speak for the forces at the edge of roof and floor
diaphragms when the building is subject to wind or seismic forces.

A simple description might be the forces in the top & bottom flanges of
the horizontal beam that is the roof or floor diaphragm. These forces can
be significant when the building long and narrow.

If you look at the required nailing table in most U.S. building codes you
will see a minimum number of nails called for when splicing the double top
plates. "Chord forces" is the reason.

--
Bob Morrison, PE, SE
R L Morrison Engineering Co
Structural & Civil Engineering
Poulsbo WA
bob at rlmorrisonengr dot com

Posted by Roarmeister on July 10, 2006, 10:55 pm
wrote:

>In a previous post Wayne Whitney wrote...
>> My understanding is that you are off by one here: if the studs/trusses
>> are perfectly aligned everywhere, I believe the building code allows a
>> single top plate (with the proper splice detail). Using a double top
>> plate is standard practice precisely because it allows the
>> studs/trusses to be offset.
>>
>
>Wayne is correct. Not to mention that once you add solid sheathing on the
>wall the double top plate is not going to go anywhere without destroying
>the sheathing.
>
>BTW, there is another reason to use a double top plate: chord forces in
>the roof or floor diaphragm. It is possible to use a single top plate,
>but the diaphragm cannot be very large and you must strap across any
>splices to provide load continuity. The use of a double top plate
>provides two benefits: studs and roof members don't have to be aligned and
>chord splices are done by offsetting the ends of the plates.

It is also quite reasonable to use single top plates and the studs spaced
at 24" O.C., then line up the trusses on the studs and tie everything
together with hurricane straps. By using less lumber in the exterior
framing you lessen the area of cold spots across the wall face, couple this
with using minimal corner framing and you could easily reduce the cold
spots by 10% and keep the cost down as well. But then again, you probably
want to go to 5/8" drywall instead of 1/2" drywall because of the spacing
so the cost savings would go disappear.

It just takes a little more pre-planning to layout the wall framing and
roof trusses but it may be worth it for the energy savings. But you have a
point with the splices - either they have to be at a stud or you need to
strap the slice.

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