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Ungrounded Handy Box crhras 07-24-2007
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Posted by Bobk207 on July 25, 2007, 10:22 pm
>
>
>
>
> >> Just spent the last two hours trying to figure out why the GFCI my
> >> electrician installed in my new building doesn't trip correctly (that
> >> includes at trip to the shop to get a new GFCI). I found out that the
> >> box
> >> it is using as a ground isn't grounded. Another box 2 feet away is
> >> grounded
> >> just fine and the GFCI housed by it trips under all tests.
>
> >> What do electricians do in this case ? There's conduit to the box and
> >> I'm
> >> wondering why it wouldn't be grounded in the first place. I'm thinking
> >> of
> >> pulling a third copper wire and using that to ground the outlet but that
> >> probably isn't the best solution.
>
> >> Thanks
>
> > There must be something else going on.
>
> > A GFI will trip even if not grounded properly. That's why the GFI
> > comes with stickers that say "no equipment ground".
>
> > A GFI compares the hot current to the neutral current & based on a
> > difference; trips.
>
> > I've installed GFI's in old houses w/o grounds (& applied the
> > sticker) ......they trip just fine.
>
> > cheers
> > Bob
>
> The GFCI trips just fine when using it's self test button. It doesn't trip
> when using the GFCI test button on the small outlet tester I am using. All
> other (10 or so) GFCI outlets in the building trip when using the tester on
> them but some of them didn't before I grounded them to the boxes they are
> installed in.
>
> The tester has three lights on it - 2 yellow and one red and when an outlet
> is well grounded to the box the 2 yellow lights are bright and the red one
> is completely off. When an outlet doesn't seem to be grounded the two
> yellow lights are lit but not too brighly and the red one glows a bit. The
> instructions that came with the tester don't address what that means. I am
> assuming that something is not right.
>
> So, after doing everything possible to ground the GFCI to it's box I then
> used a meter to measure the voltage difference between the hot lead and the
> box. The voltage measured only 60V whereas a different, working box
> measured 120V. That's why I assumed the box is not grounded.
>
> Finally, I just hanged a copper wire from the ground screw of the
> non-working GFCI to a good box and it then trips correctly.
>
> Thanks the responses,
> Curt

Curt-

Good description of the situation.

Here's what I think may be happening..........

Your GFI tester works by generating a "true ground fault"....that is,
a small current leak to ground to simulate a problem (like you or
someone using power from the GFI about to get shocked).

So your tester cannot do this IF a ground does not exist.

I'm thinking that the GFI is fine but the method of test used by the
tester cannot work without a ground local to the GFI receptacle.

Other way to test the GFI is to get someone to stand bare foot on a
wet surface & stick a paper clip into the hot of the
GFI................j/k don't do this. :)

cheers
Bob


Posted by crhras on July 26, 2007, 8:55 pm


>>
>>
>>
>>
>> >> Just spent the last two hours trying to figure out why the GFCI my
>> >> electrician installed in my new building doesn't trip correctly (that
>> >> includes at trip to the shop to get a new GFCI). I found out that the
>> >> box
>> >> it is using as a ground isn't grounded. Another box 2 feet away is
>> >> grounded
>> >> just fine and the GFCI housed by it trips under all tests.
>>
>> >> What do electricians do in this case ? There's conduit to the box and
>> >> I'm
>> >> wondering why it wouldn't be grounded in the first place. I'm
>> >> thinking
>> >> of
>> >> pulling a third copper wire and using that to ground the outlet but
>> >> that
>> >> probably isn't the best solution.
>>
>> >> Thanks
>>
>> > There must be something else going on.
>>
>> > A GFI will trip even if not grounded properly. That's why the GFI
>> > comes with stickers that say "no equipment ground".
>>
>> > A GFI compares the hot current to the neutral current & based on a
>> > difference; trips.
>>
>> > I've installed GFI's in old houses w/o grounds (& applied the
>> > sticker) ......they trip just fine.
>>
>> > cheers
>> > Bob
>>
>> The GFCI trips just fine when using it's self test button. It doesn't
>> trip
>> when using the GFCI test button on the small outlet tester I am using.
>> All
>> other (10 or so) GFCI outlets in the building trip when using the tester
>> on
>> them but some of them didn't before I grounded them to the boxes they are
>> installed in.
>>
>> The tester has three lights on it - 2 yellow and one red and when an
>> outlet
>> is well grounded to the box the 2 yellow lights are bright and the red
>> one
>> is completely off. When an outlet doesn't seem to be grounded the two
>> yellow lights are lit but not too brighly and the red one glows a bit.
>> The
>> instructions that came with the tester don't address what that means. I
>> am
>> assuming that something is not right.
>>
>> So, after doing everything possible to ground the GFCI to it's box I then
>> used a meter to measure the voltage difference between the hot lead and
>> the
>> box. The voltage measured only 60V whereas a different, working box
>> measured 120V. That's why I assumed the box is not grounded.
>>
>> Finally, I just hanged a copper wire from the ground screw of the
>> non-working GFCI to a good box and it then trips correctly.
>>
>> Thanks the responses,
>> Curt
>
> Curt-
>
> Good description of the situation.
>
> Here's what I think may be happening..........
>
> Your GFI tester works by generating a "true ground fault"....that is,
> a small current leak to ground to simulate a problem (like you or
> someone using power from the GFI about to get shocked).
>
> So your tester cannot do this IF a ground does not exist.
>
> I'm thinking that the GFI is fine but the method of test used by the
> tester cannot work without a ground local to the GFI receptacle.
>
> Other way to test the GFI is to get someone to stand bare foot on a
> wet surface & stick a paper clip into the hot of the
> GFI................j/k don't do this. :)
>
> cheers
> Bob
>

So, you're saying that the GFCI is probably working just fine and I can
ignore the results from the handheld tester? If that's what you are saying
then I think you are right but man, what good is this tester then ?



Posted by PeterD on July 27, 2007, 8:54 am
wrote:

>

>
>So, you're saying that the GFCI is probably working just fine

Possibly it is working 'correctly', that is as designed. There is no
promise it is going to provide protection

>and I can
>ignore the results from the handheld tester?

Only at your own risk.

>If that's what you are saying
>then I think you are right but man, what good is this tester then ?

See above! <g> The tester serves a useful purpose, you discovered
that.


IMHO, and hell, I'm an idiot (but I do have an EE degree), one should
*NEVER* rely on conduit to provide ground paths. A seperate ground
wire must be installed. Relying on conduit to provide grounds leads to
floating boxes, outlets, GFI's that don't work, ARC fault interrupters
that don't work, and other strange and sometimes dangerous situations.
Pull a ground between the two boxes... But then again, I'm just a guy
on the Internet, so what do I know?

Posted by Bobk207 on July 27, 2007, 9:31 pm
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >So, you're saying that the GFCI is probably working just fine
>
> Possibly it is working 'correctly', that is as designed. There is no
> promise it is going to provide protection
>
> >and I can
> >ignore the results from the handheld tester?
>
> Only at your own risk.
>
> >If that's what you are saying
> >then I think you are right but man, what good is this tester then ?
>
> See above! <g> The tester serves a useful purpose, you discovered
> that.
>
> IMHO, and hell, I'm an idiot (but I do have an EE degree), one should
> *NEVER* rely on conduit to provide ground paths. A seperate ground
> wire must be installed. Relying on conduit to provide grounds leads to
> floating boxes, outlets, GFI's that don't work, ARC fault interrupters
> that don't work, and other strange and sometimes dangerous situations.
> Pull a ground between the two boxes... But then again, I'm just a guy
> on the Internet, so what do I know?

Peter-

Could you expand on your comment....


>>>>Possibly it is working 'correctly', that is as designed. There is no
promise it is going to provide protection <<<<<

Do you mean it could be working as designed but provide no protection?

Correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression that a GFI
(that's what they were called when first introduced & what I still
call them) compares hot current to neutral current & trips based on
the presence of a small (ma) current delta.

Like I posted, the GFI's come with stickers that say "no equipment
ground"

Of course, a grounded box & grounded GFI are the best of all worlds
but unless there is a reason not to.......a GFI in an ungrounded box
is far superior a standard receptacle in an ungrounded box.

In my previous posts I was trying make sense of what was happening
(from afar)

hence the comment "probably ok", I was hoping that someone would jump
in and clarify the situation, having encountered similar.

cheers
Bob


Posted by Doug Miller on July 28, 2007, 9:02 am

>Correct me if I'm wrong but I was under the impression that a GFI
>(that's what they were called when first introduced & what I still
>call them) compares hot current to neutral current & trips based on
>the presence of a small (ma) current delta.

No correction needed -- you're not wrong. There's an excellent discussion of
how GFCIs work here:
http://www.codecheck.com/gfci_principal.htm

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

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