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Posted by dpb on January 12, 2009, 4:22 pm
...
> Not sure if its the right answer but "an" answer. =A0 I've got similar
> situation 1930 skipped sheathed cedar shingles.
> I'll elaborate later.
...
Waiting w/ bated breath... :)
Thanks, any ideas appreciated.
--
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Posted by SteveBell on January 12, 2009, 7:18 pm
>Old house (1915) two-story farmhouse w/ kitchen addition (~1930) to
>the south side that receives tremendous solar heat load in summer (SW
>KS--not AZ hot, but close).
>The house has open-decking shingle roofs w/ 3/8" cedar shingles (not
>shakes).
>The roof over the addition has no venting and owing to aforementioned
>solar load the shingles fail on this one roof section quite rapidly
>compared to the rest of the house. Since also had some fairly
>significant damage owing to wind taking a large branch down that fell
>on one end, am planning on replacing this section shortly.
>Owing to the fact that it simply abuts against the second story wall I
>can't see a good way to add effective venting. A thermostatic-
>controlled vent could be installed while reroofing, but there's no
>access for maintenance, etc., so not real keen on the idea.
>Anybody here got the right answer??? :)
>OBTW, the addition is roughly 36x12, the roof pitch is 4:12
Ridge vents at the top, eyebrow vents at the bottom.
I've never used the eyebrow vents, which go on top of the roof instead
of under the soffit, but I read recently that they're now required in
California. soffit vents channel brush fires right into the attic,
apparently.
--
Steve Bell
New Life Home Improvement
Arlington, TX USA
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Posted by jloomis on January 12, 2009, 9:06 pm
Use a Cora Ridge strip vent. Put it in the last course of shingles........
Cover with standard roof to wall flashing.
You have to cut air holes out of each bay to allow for air to get into cora
ridge strip vent and then out. Easy, I do it all the time, and especially
with a roof on a wall.....
jloomis
> Old house (1915) two-story farmhouse w/ kitchen addition (~1930) to
> the south side that receives tremendous solar heat load in summer (SW
> KS--not AZ hot, but close).
> The house has open-decking shingle roofs w/ 3/8" cedar shingles (not
> shakes).
> The roof over the addition has no venting and owing to aforementioned
> solar load the shingles fail on this one roof section quite rapidly
> compared to the rest of the house. Since also had some fairly
> significant damage owing to wind taking a large branch down that fell
> on one end, am planning on replacing this section shortly.
> Owing to the fact that it simply abuts against the second story wall I
> can't see a good way to add effective venting. A thermostatic-
> controlled vent could be installed while reroofing, but there's no
> access for maintenance, etc., so not real keen on the idea.
> Anybody here got the right answer??? :)
> OBTW, the addition is roughly 36x12, the roof pitch is 4:12
> --
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Posted by Bobk207 on January 13, 2009, 12:19 pm
> Old house (1915) two-story farmhouse w/ kitchen addition (~1930) to
> the south side that receives tremendous solar heat load in summer (SW
> KS--not AZ hot, but close).
> The house has open-decking shingle roofs w/ 3/8" cedar shingles (not
> shakes).
> The roof over the addition has no venting and owing to aforementioned
> solar load the shingles fail on this one roof section quite rapidly
> compared to the rest of the house. =A0Since also had some fairly
> significant damage owing to wind taking a large branch down that fell
> on one end, am planning on replacing this section shortly.
> Owing to the fact that it simply abuts against the second story wall I
> can't see a good way to add effective venting. =A0A thermostatic-
> controlled vent could be installed while reroofing, but there's no
> access for maintenance, etc., so not real keen on the idea.
> Anybody here got the right answer??? =A0:)
> OBTW, the addition is roughly 36x12, the roof pitch is 4:12
> --
Duane-
I don't know what happened to my post but by now most (if not all) of
my comments have been covered by others.
quick summary of "lost post"
ridge vents can go on hips AND solar powered fans are available that
can be serviced from outside.
Hail as you mention is a problem in Kansas but not in SoCal
http://www.solatube.com/homeowner/solarstar.php?gclid=3DCIyi79yFjJgCFQsQago=
dYlCDBw
http://www.theledlight.com/solar-attic-fans.html
they're not cheap in general, some have remote solar panel feature
that would allow some custom hail protection scheme
cheers
Bob
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Posted by dpb on January 13, 2009, 1:24 pm
...
> quick summary of "lost post"
> ridge vents can go on hips AND solar powered fans are available that
> can be serviced from outside.
> Hail as you mention is a problem in Kansas but not in SoCal
...
> they're not cheap in general, some have remote solar panel feature
> that would allow some custom hail protection scheme
...
Bob, thanks...
Looked at the links -- I'll call the Solatube people and see what
their hail ratings are. We can count on at least some every spring; a
really damaging one is hit-or-miss at any given location. On average,
once/five years for window-breaking size/wind is probably good
guesstimate. Lost a storm window last year; had been about three
since any significant damage before. Town (5 miles) got hammered last
in '05 w/ two severe storms two weeks apart that took 90%+ of roofs
totaled and probably 75% of windows on north and east sides (_very_
unusual and almost always extreme when cell comes from that
direction). The hail track on both missed the home quarter by about
1/2 to 2 miles each time. The first was as severe as I've seen in 60+
years -- baseball to softball-size w/ 80+ mph for nearl 45 minutes.
Wind was so strong at the Sonic drive in w/ the overhangs for the
order stall about 9-10 ft high and 15 ft wide it still shredded the
sides of the store from about 3-ft off the ground down. An apartment
in the assisted living where mother was living was vacant with an east-
facing picture window. Broke it out and a hailstone went across the
width of the room (about 10 feet) and penetrated the 1/2"
sheetrock....
Anyway, nothing survives that kind of storm but if they're built w/
Lexan or other resistant cover panels is possible would make it thru
the most prevelant. It would be covered by the insurance so out-of-
pocket wouldn't be too bad.
I'll get up there and consider...have to think about the hip ridges --
I kinda' like the idea but have to look into how the house is framed
for adequate access area as wouldn't be able to cut a continuous strip
along the ends of the sheathing boards as they're supported at the
corners of course, at least w/o an alternate support. I forget what
the width and spacing between them is on that roof as I've not seen it
uncovered in too many years to remember...
Anyway, thanks to all again for the input...
Duane
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Page 4 of 4 << first < 1 2 3
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> situation 1930 skipped sheathed cedar shingles.
> I'll elaborate later.