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Vibration Isolation Mounting for Tankless Water Heater

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Vibration Isolation Mounting for Tankless Water Heater Wayne Whitney 03-01-2007
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Posted by Wayne Whitney on March 8, 2007, 4:36 pm

> If it's going to get wet regularly, 3/16" or so might be better -
> allow more air flow. Alternatively, you might consider just using a
> gasket w/some "bedding" goop on both sides.

Hmm, after considering these issues it will be simplest to go with
your original suggestion. That is, mount the aluminum plate to the
house rigidly with some wood stand-off blocks, and then use the rubber
isolators to mount the steel water heater brackets to the aluminum
plate. This avoids the contact of dissimilar metals and provides a
1/2" air gap between the bracket and plate.

> I guess the limiting factor would be convection currents in
> the pipes from the WH tank, so mount it above the tankless.

I was planning to put it in the crawl space, so mounting it above is
not really an option. I guess I should put some upside down U-bends
in the piping to the tank water heater? Perhaps I'll just use
flexible water heater connectors and bend them into a U-shape.

Cheers, Wayne



Posted by on March 10, 2007, 7:14 pm
> Perhaps I'll just use
> flexible water heater connectors and bend them into a U-shape.

With 24" flex connectors, you can put a full loop in them provided the
piping is located properly. We do this when possible to reduce
convection flow. The only problem with flex connectors, it's hard to
get the usual pipe insulation to work; the readily available stuff is
pretty stiff and doesn't want to conform to the bend and gaps and pops
off if you have slit it for the install - the usual circumstance.
There is a soft insulation that works fine, but you probably need to
visit an air conditioning or hydronic heating supplier to get it and
it costs more.

Good luck on your project.

Rufus


Posted by LightsAREon on March 10, 2007, 9:22 pm
rlaggren@mail.com wrote:
>> Perhaps I'll just use
>> flexible water heater connectors and bend them into a U-shape.
>
> With 24" flex connectors, you can put a full loop in them provided the
> piping is located properly. We do this when possible to reduce
> convection flow. The only problem with flex connectors, it's hard to
> get the usual pipe insulation to work; the readily available stuff is
> pretty stiff and doesn't want to conform to the bend and gaps and pops
> off if you have slit it for the install - the usual circumstance.
> There is a soft insulation that works fine, but you probably need to
> visit an air conditioning or hydronic heating supplier to get it and
> it costs more.
>
> Good luck on your project.
>
> Rufus
>
Try an air hammer arrestor instead. The loop thing works but most
inspectors aren't too happy about anything that has more than 270
degrees of bend in them. If this is just a DIY job, go for it. There
are insulation tapes that will do the job but you have to go to a tru
plumbing supply outlet (not Lowes or Home Depot).

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