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Water Heater(s) vent question michaelcherr 09-06-2009
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Posted by michaelcherr on September 8, 2009, 11:49 am


michaelcherr had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/Re-Water-Heater-s-vent-question-17980-.htm
:
michaelcherr wrote:

Thanks for catching my math error. I used diameter instead of radius.
(And I just tested into calculus at the locall community college)

I havent heard of totally sealed combustion for water heaters. I knew
that was available for furnaces. When mine dies, I will probably go with
that.
I had thought about the direct vent ones, but decided otherwise because of
price.

I will return the one I already bought and buy a direct vent one, or
sealed combustion if available.

Thanks for your helping me to get this done safe.

The direct vent ones are a bit more expensive, but thats far cheaper than
the cost of worrying about poisoning the occupants.






-------------------------------------




Posted by John Grabowski on September 6, 2009, 9:00 pm



>I currently have one (NG)water heater in the basement venting into an
> unlined chimney.
> I am adding a second one on the second floor for the hot water needs for
> an upstairs apartment.
> As I understand it the chimney is much to large for the single water
> heater to be venting there.
> I was planning on lining the chimney by running down sections of
> galvanized pipe through the chimney from the roof, then capping off the
> top of the chimney arouond the new vent.
> In my mind I'm using the old chimney as a sort of pipe chase.
> For the section with just one water heater, I'm assuming I just need 3",
> what size should I increase it to after I tee in the second heater vent?
> 4" isn't quite double the area as 3", so would 5" be the correct size?
> Is galvanized ok, or do I need stainless? Class B?
> Besides powered vent water heaters, is there another option I should
> consider?


*I've noticed that in several towns in my area the building inspectors are
requiring that the original 3" vent installed by the builders be changed to
4" when the water heater gets replaced. It might have something to do with
the increase in BTU's, but I am not sure. You should check with your town
regarding your installation. As Bill mentioned fresh air is important for
combustion and draft. I am wondering if the top of the chimney became
clogged with a birds nest or other critter, would the exhaust from the lower
water heater come out into the upper apartment? I guess there is probably
some sort of back draft damper that can be installed.


Posted by michaelcherr on September 7, 2009, 3:19 pm


michaelcherr had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/Re-Water-Heater-s-vent-question-17982-.htm
:
In case anybody has a similar question, I found the answer to my original
question.

http://books.google.com/books?id=W3p0btt2GXEC&pg=PT122&lpg=PT122&dq=sizing+vent+for+multiple+appliances&source=bl&ots=oH5cddS5Uf&sig=S_gJOfKwLne6lUCo54o9SaVnsYs&hl=en&ei=-nakSpu_GJCLnQeL073SBA&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5#v=onepage&q=sizing&f=false

In section 5.11 of the 2006 International Plumbing codes handbook, it says
that two appliances sharing a common ventalation system must be on the
same story, with an exception for engineered type systems.

I guess I will be going with electric, power vent and run PVC, or running
two flues inside the chimney.




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