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Posted by Alan on May 4, 2007, 3:43 am
With lumber prices as low as they are, you made a mistake in not
resheathing the whole roof with OSB. I have plank sheathing, and
layered OSB right over it, which is acceptable by code and provides a
real firm roof deck. Plank sheathing is OK for wood shingles, but not
so good for roll roofing and asphalt shingles. Before I reroofed, the
leaks I had in my garage were between the planks where roll roofing
had sagged and cracked. Generally though, the nails driven go all the
way through the sheathing, so they really hold by mechanical leverage,
not so much by friction. Definetly nail through the nail strip
because the asphalt glue from the next shingle adheres to this. It's
OK to put a nail above the nail strip if you want, but when you lay
down the next row of shingles, you'll be doing that anyway. Each
shingle then has two rows of nails, and the asphalt glue does a lot to
keep the wind from blowing the shingles off. If it makes you feel any
better, smear in some asphalt roof patch to hold the shingles together
even more. Indeed, the warranty of the shingle in terms of its wind
resistance is based as much or more on the thin line of asphalt glue
than on the nail. It takes a few days of warm sun for the asphalt to
stick firm for the long run though. Good luck.
> >I am applying three tab Owens corning as to their nailing instructions
> >with a hammer by placing the nail below the seal strip and above the
> >split that forms the tabs. What should I do if my nail hits nothing?
> >It is old plank sheathing 1940s vintage and when by chance the nail
> >area is over the crack between boards I have found that one to three
> >(or worst case all four) nails just go in fast and hit nothing. I have
> >then at least been putting two more nails above the seal strip. I can
> >figure no other option. I assume I should not pull the bad nails
> >because of the hole created by them. I am concerned down the road that
> >they may pop up a bit and effect the shingle over them. But what else
> >could be done. When a nail goes in without hitting anything I try to
> >adjust the next one over sometime with success and some times with the
> >same no hit results. I start to use profanity when the next two or
> >more do the same.
> You HAVE to go above or below the crack. How wide ARE those cracks? Better to
> go high than too low. IF you have plenty of time, pull out the nail and remove
> the shingle. Put some cement over the nail hole and then replace the shingle.
> Others put the nail back in after cementing it. Still others just leave it
> alone. I wouldn't worry about the nail working its way back out. You
shouldn't
> have any problems until the tabs become old and buckle.
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>with a hammer by placing the nail below the seal strip and above the
>split that forms the tabs. What should I do if my nail hits nothing?
>It is old plank sheathing 1940s vintage and when by chance the nail
>area is over the crack between boards I have found that one to three
>(or worst case all four) nails just go in fast and hit nothing. I have
>then at least been putting two more nails above the seal strip. I can
>figure no other option. I assume I should not pull the bad nails
>because of the hole created by them. I am concerned down the road that
>they may pop up a bit and effect the shingle over them. But what else
>could be done. When a nail goes in without hitting anything I try to
>adjust the next one over sometime with success and some times with the
>same no hit results. I start to use profanity when the next two or
>more do the same.