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board and bat siding? Avasa 04-13-2008
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Posted by Avasa on April 13, 2008, 10:49 am
wanting to apply rough timber board and bat siding to a new
construction, but my "thinking like water"
mentality makes me a bit nervous about the vertical joints and the
dimensional variations of the
rough timber. how can vertical siding be installed to best shed water?
is it ok if the boards vary a bit in
thickness?

Posted by Robert Allison on April 13, 2008, 11:10 am
Avasa wrote:

> wanting to apply rough timber board and bat siding to a new
> construction, but my "thinking like water"
> mentality makes me a bit nervous about the vertical joints and the
> dimensional variations of the
> rough timber. how can vertical siding be installed to best shed water?
> is it ok if the boards vary a bit in
> thickness?

First of all, it is board and batten. The best way to install it
to prevent water intrusion is to install it over felt or
housewrap, then install your boards tightly together, then your
battens over the gaps. If your battens are at least 2-3" wide,
you won't have much worry about shedding rain.

For further protection, you could run a bead of caulk on either
side of the gaps in your boards, then install the batten on top
of the caulk.

The boards should be the same thickness, or you will need to shim
one side or the other to keep your battens flat on both boards.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Posted by jloomis on April 13, 2008, 3:09 pm
30 # felt is best with board and batten.
I have used Breckenridge rough sawn plywood and batts.
Not only does this follow code for shear strength in our area, it also iw a
water tight way to seal the building.
It looks similiar to board and batt.
If a person wanted the old look then using board and batt wiil work, and
like the other reply trying to fir the board or kerf the batt to make a
tighter fit is best.
Nailing the batt has been an age old question.
some prefer 1 nail........so that the board can move. staggered......Others
just nail 2 nails in the board and 2 in the batt. The reason for this
concern is that if the board is large like a 1x12 it tends to split........
With one nail in the board it has give.......Same with batt.....
Your guess is as good as mine.
jloomis
> wanting to apply rough timber board and bat siding to a new
> construction, but my "thinking like water"
> mentality makes me a bit nervous about the vertical joints and the
> dimensional variations of the
> rough timber. how can vertical siding be installed to best shed water?
> is it ok if the boards vary a bit in
> thickness?



Posted by hogheavenfarm on April 14, 2008, 6:22 am
I have a small barn, about 16 by 12 that is board and batten. The
boards are random width rough sawn, between 8 inches and 12 inches
wide. The battens are 2 inches wide and nailed to the boards (there
are not studs behind every batten). There are cats between studs at
the four foot mark.
This barn is the driest one I have, never any water getting in
regardless of the weather. This is partly because the rough sawn
lumber swells a bit with humidity and seals tighter. The same thing
happens with the cedar shake roof. You can se daylight through some of
the pinholes through it, but when it rains, it seals up tight.

Posted by jloomis on April 14, 2008, 9:43 am
This is true....
Maybe we should build "barn style" anyway......
I have worked on houses and that were wood shingled and you could see
daylight in the attic and dry as a bone.
All "thatch roofs" are the same......
Worlds renewable resource.....thatch.....
Oh and some of these thatch styles have dirt floors.......
That is where the word "Threshold" comes from.....I believe they threw
thresh on the floor and in the front of the house became known as
threshold......
4 poster beds with cloth on top?
To keep the debris off the bedding from "thatch roofs"
Love those barns....
jloomis
>I have a small barn, about 16 by 12 that is board and batten. The
> boards are random width rough sawn, between 8 inches and 12 inches
> wide. The battens are 2 inches wide and nailed to the boards (there
> are not studs behind every batten). There are cats between studs at
> the four foot mark.
> This barn is the driest one I have, never any water getting in
> regardless of the weather. This is partly because the rough sawn
> lumber swells a bit with humidity and seals tighter. The same thing
> happens with the cedar shake roof. You can se daylight through some of
> the pinholes through it, but when it rains, it seals up tight.



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