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can a 1/2" copper 90 elbow be re-soldered

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can a 1/2" copper 90 elbow be re-soldered bent 01-23-2007
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Posted by bent on January 23, 2007, 4:01 pm
Its a minor leak I just noticed and probably only occurs only after water
flows through the joint. Thought it was condensation. Under std. pressure
and no flow, little if any water on tissue paper. I am just assuming its
gonna drip some (more) after I run it some, given the evidence.
Drying/wicking now. Some time ago, I may have aggravated a little with a
tug too hard.

If there is in fact a hole/crack/passage caused by stretching open a crack
at the joint and if the solder should be enough to COVER that area can the
joint be reheated with a (std. old legacy technology type) propane torch.
Can solder be added when its at temp? Its an older thing, thats known.
There isn't any reason I couldn't drain the line, but is it possible to take
this to extremes, or not be too concerned (more later).

Secondly, what about those tapes that are supposed to wrap around and seal.
The drip is likely almost something to turn away from, change the dressing
every once and a while. Can these tape products, or I've even seen a spray
can, work for a little problem like this. Its really a bit of an pain, the
location to just fix it with another elbow spliced in. I have one tape
called "Magic Wrap" by Glasgow mfrng, London Canada. Black rubber/plastic
electrical tape sized roll 1" x 16'. Pkg says "forms a solid rubber wrap",
shows a brass garden faucet outdoors being wrapped, "stretches to 3x its
length", "water tight and air tight to 100psi", "strong, long, all temp,
conforms". I have no clue of the pressure involved. It does not look
like a fiber tape, but can't ell cause its got backing on it. Don't know if
I need could another type either.

ah, here's the one I have:
http://www.glasgowmfg.com/pages/magicwrap.html



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Posted by Glenn on January 23, 2007, 4:14 pm
Draining the line completely is the only way. Even a drop left
close enough to make steam and it will 'not' solder.

You can always pick up a 90º - 5/8" compression fitting to take
the place of the sweated elbow.



>> tug too hard.
>
> If there is in fact a hole/crack/passage caused by stretching
> open a crack at the joint and if the solder should be enough to
> COVER that area can the joint be reheated with a (std. old
> legacy technology type) propane torch. Can solder be added when
> its at temp? Its an older thing, thats known. There isn't any
> reason I couldn't drain the line, but is it possible to take
> this to extremes, or not be too concerned (more later).
>


Posted by bent on January 23, 2007, 9:31 pm


> Draining the line completely is the only way. Even a drop left close
> enough to make steam and it will 'not' solder.

you haven't actually stated if its a bad idea to try a re-solder. If it
works it works, and if it doesn't I can try something else, yes, no?

> You can always pick up a 90º - 5/8" compression fitting to take the place
> of the sweated elbow.

I'm going to check into this

got a tight job, I need more info



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Posted by CWatters on January 24, 2007, 4:21 pm

>
>
> > Draining the line completely is the only way. Even a drop left close
> > enough to make steam and it will 'not' solder.
>
> you haven't actually stated if its a bad idea to try a re-solder. If it
> works it works, and if it doesn't I can try something else, yes, no?

In my limited experience....

Bad joints are usually caused by not cleaning the pipe sufficiently (eg the
oxide wasn't removed with wire wool). Sometimes the joint just wasn't evenly
heated and the solder didn't flow around it. Frequently reheating the joint
and twisting the pipe or otherwise disturbing the joint slightly is enough
to get the solder to flow around. More solder can be added while the joint
is hot if necessary. If the pipe wasn't cleaned properly before soldering
then best to open up the joint and clean the pipe end. You can sometimes
re-use the fitting but it can be hard to get it back on cold. Sometimes
easier just to use a new one.



Posted by hawgeye on January 23, 2007, 4:22 pm

"bent" wrote...
> Its a minor leak I just noticed and probably only occurs only after water
> flows through the joint. Thought it was condensation. Under std.
> pressure and no flow, little if any water on tissue paper. I am just
> assuming its gonna drip some (more) after I run it some, given the
> evidence. Drying/wicking now. Some time ago, I may have aggravated a
> little with a tug too hard.
>
> If there is in fact a hole/crack/passage caused by stretching open a crack
> at the joint and if the solder should be enough to COVER that area can the
> joint be reheated with a (std. old legacy technology type) propane torch.
> Can solder be added when its at temp? Its an older thing, thats known.
> There isn't any reason I couldn't drain the line, but is it possible to
> take this to extremes, or not be too concerned (more later).

snip the magic band-aid idea.

You'll have to drain the line and make sure all the water is away from the
joint or you'll be heating up the joint all day. Your best bet is to undo
the joint and redo it using a new elbow. Trying to heat up the joint and
adding solder could ruin both solder joints.
Save yourself some grief and do it right.



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