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Posted by Tom The Great on August 12, 2006, 3:54 pm
On 11 Aug 2006 16:26:14 -0700, "inspector.terry@gmail.com"
>
>Tom The Great wrote:
>> On 10 Aug 2006 07:27:11 -0700, beerguzzler50@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> >I have a wood framed detached garage that I would like to insulate. I
>> >only plan on heating it a few times a year when I have a project to do
>> >or something I have to fix in winter (I live in upstate NY) with a
>> >portable heater. The garage is wrapped on the outside with Tyvek over
>> >the plywood and covered with vinyl siding. I plan on using r13
>> >fiberglass insulation on the sides and r19 in the ceiling.
>> >
>> >Is there any reason why I should use kraft faced in this situation? It
>> >is more expensive and I have a vapor barrier already with the Tyvek
>> >right? I will be covering the inside with 5/8 drywall on both walls
>> >and ceiling.
>> >
>> >Thanks.
>>
>> imho,
>>
>> The vapor barrior is intended on keeping warm most air from entering
>> the insulation, and then condensing as it migrates to cooler spots of
>> the insulation. Since you don't want trapped moisture in your
>> insulation, could create mold conditions, reduce insulation
>> properties, expose wood studs to to rotting; you want to use a
>> moisture barrior on the inside face of the insulation.
>>
>> later,
>>
>> tom @ www.WorkAtHomePlans.com
>
>Tom is right and it is a CODE requirement in most areas to use vapor
>barrier. If cost is a problem you can use regular batting and plastic
>over that as a vapor barrier if it is approved in your area.
>
>Terry North
>Combination Building Inspector
Using unfaced stuff, and then one continuous vapor barrier, such as
poly, seems like a great idea. fewer penitrations for moisture
migration, and might cut down on any future drafts.
later,
tom
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