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drywall installation bmancanfly 05-05-2009
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Posted by bmancanfly on May 5, 2009, 9:21 am

I've got a concrete block house in FL. I've stripped the drywall off
the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. I would like to
insulate the walls. What's the best way to do this?

I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the furring
strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block). And then
apply the drywall directly to the insulation.

Is this possible and worth it in FL.

-------------------------------------




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Posted by buildstrong on May 5, 2009, 10:19 am
buildstrong had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/drywall-installation-17175-.htm
:

[URL=http://www.i80equipment.com/]Boom Trucks[/URL]
-------------------------------------
bmancanfly wrote:
I think you'll really only need to put vapor barriers on the walls if you
plan on furring out the basement walls and then adding insulation, which
probably isn't necessary for just a storage space. The reason for that
would be more to protect the walls from moisture generated *inside* the
space condensing in the wall space than from moisture travelling from
outside, which may not be much of an issue anyway. If you want to go
ultra-super bombproof on everything though, you might as well do it.

Typically, wood floors installed over concrete slabs on sleepers as you're
thinking of doing will have a barrier between the sleepers and the
plywood, and a concrete slab will just about always have a vapor barrier
underneath it. So I'd probably do that one.



> I've got a concrete block house in FL. I've stripped the drywall off
> the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. I would like to
> insulate the walls. What's the best way to do this?

> I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the furring
> strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block). And then
> apply the drywall directly to the insulation.

> Is this possible and worth it in FL.

> -------------------------------------




> ##-----------------------------------------------##
> Delivered via
> http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
> Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
> Web
> and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
> alt.building.construction - 16354
> messages and counting!
> ##-----------------------------------------------##





##-----------------------------------------------##
Delivered via
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
Web
and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
alt.building.construction - 16355
messages and counting!
##-----------------------------------------------##

Posted by RicodJour on May 5, 2009, 10:37 am
On May 5, 10:19=A0am, buildstrong009_at_gmail_dot_...@foo.com
(buildstrong) wrote:
> -------------------------------------bmancanfly wrote:
> > I've got a concrete block house in FL. I've stripped the drywall off
> > the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. I would like to
> > insulate the walls. What's the best way to do this?
> > I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the furring
> > strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block). And then
> > apply the drywall directly to the insulation.
> > Is this possible and worth it in FL.
> I think you'll really only need to put vapor barriers on the walls if you
> plan on furring out the basement walls and then adding insulation, which
> probably isn't necessary for just a storage space. The reason for that
> would be more to protect the walls from moisture generated *inside* the
> space condensing in the wall space than from moisture travelling from
> outside, which may not be much of an issue anyway. If you want to go
> ultra-super bombproof on everything though, you might as well do it.

You are giving bad advice. You don't understand about climate,
location and vapor barrier location. Visit the Building Science web
site and read up.

> Typically, wood floors installed over concrete slabs on sleepers as you'r=
e
> thinking of doing will have a barrier between the sleepers and the
> plywood, and a concrete slab will just about always have a vapor barrier
> underneath it. So I'd probably do that one.

Oh, really? A concrete slab will "just about always" have a vapor
barrier? When was the OP's house built? Right, I don't know either
as he didn't tell us, so you're making a big assumption and it's also
a bad assumption.

Instead of giving bad advice based on bad assumptions, why not tell
the OP where to go for information, or what to do to see if there is a
moisture problem with the slab?

BTW, the best advice I can give you and the OP is to choose a better
newsgroup portal. Censoring and promulgating bad advice seems to be
the specialty of the one you are using. Yes, Mr. Spamming Moderator,
I'm talking about you.

R

Posted by fftt on May 6, 2009, 12:30 pm
> On May 5, 10:19=A0am, buildstrong009_at_gmail_dot_...@foo.com
> (buildstrong) wrote:
> > -------------------------------------bmancanfly wrote:
> > > I've got a concrete block house in FL. =A0I've stripped the drywall o=
ff
> > > the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. =A0I would like to
> > > insulate the walls. =A0What's the best way to do this?
> > > I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the furring
> > > strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block). =A0And =
then
> > > apply the drywall directly to the insulation.
> > > Is this possible and worth it in FL.
> > I think you'll really only need to put vapor barriers on the walls if y=
ou
> > plan on furring out the basement walls and then adding insulation, whic=
h
> > probably isn't necessary for just a storage space. The reason for that
> > would be more to protect the walls from moisture generated *inside* the
> > space condensing in the wall space than from moisture travelling from
> > outside, which may not be much of an issue anyway. If you want to go
> > ultra-super bombproof on everything though, you might as well do it.
> You are giving bad advice. =A0You don't understand about climate,
> location and vapor barrier location. =A0Visit the Building Science web
> site and read up.
> > Typically, wood floors installed over concrete slabs on sleepers as you=
're
> > thinking of doing will have a barrier between the sleepers and the
> > plywood, and a concrete slab will just about always have a vapor barrie=
r
> > underneath it. So I'd probably do that one.
> Oh, really? =A0A concrete slab will "just about always" have a vapor
> barrier? =A0When was the OP's house built? =A0Right, I don't know either
> as he didn't tell us, so you're making a big assumption and it's also
> a bad assumption.
> Instead of giving bad advice based on bad assumptions, why not tell
> the OP where to go for information, or what to do to see if there is a
> moisture problem with the slab?
> BTW, the best advice I can give you and the OP is to choose a better
> newsgroup portal. =A0Censoring and promulgating bad advice seems to be
> the specialty of the one you are using. =A0Yes, Mr. Spamming Moderator,
> I'm talking about you.
> R

I'd have to agree with RIco.

It appears to me you're 0 for 2. .....or is that 0 for 3 or 4? :(

Sorry but I classify your reply is wrong / non-responsive.

cheers
Bob




Posted by PeterD on May 5, 2009, 2:20 pm
On 05 May 2009 14:19:04 GMT, buildstrong009_at_gmail_dot_com@foo.com
(buildstrong) wrote:

>buildstrong had written this in response to
>http://www.thestuccocompany.com/construction/drywall-installation-17175-.htm
> :
>[URL=http://www.i80equipment.com/]Boom Trucks[/URL]
>-------------------------------------
>bmancanfly wrote:
>I think you'll really only need to put vapor barriers on the walls if you
>plan on furring out the basement walls

You clearly don't understand the OP's post, so how anyone can consider
your reply as authorative is beyond me. He said *NOTHING* about
basement walls. He's talking living area walls.

> and then adding insulation, which
>probably isn't necessary for just a storage space.

The OP said nothing about storage space. Again you go off on things
that just are not in the original post.

>The reason for that
>would be more to protect the walls from moisture generated *inside* the
>space condensing in the wall space than from moisture travelling from
>outside, which may not be much of an issue anyway. If you want to go
>ultra-super bombproof on everything though, you might as well do it.
>Typically, wood floors installed over concrete

Where in the OP's post did he say 'floors'?

>slabs on sleepers as you're
>thinking of doing will have a barrier between the sleepers and the
>plywood, and a concrete slab will just about always have a vapor barrier
>underneath it. So I'd probably do that one.
>> I've got a concrete block house in FL. I've stripped the drywall off
>> the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. I would like to
>> insulate the walls. What's the best way to do this?
>> I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the furring
>> strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block). And then
>> apply the drywall directly to the insulation.
>> Is this possible and worth it in FL.
>> -------------------------------------

(more sucko company spam and junk...)

To the OP:

1. Drop the sucko company access. Go to a Usenet provider!

2. Yes you will need vapor barrier.

3. Yes it will make a difference.

4. Personally, I'd cut the rigid insulation to fit between the strips
myself. I prefer not giving up interior space if not necessary.




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