drywall installation

Posted by on May 5, 2009, 12:19 pm

On May 5, 9:21=A0am, brettgiardiello_at_bellsouth_dot_...@foo.com
(bmancanfly) wrote:

> I've got a concrete block house in FL. =A0I've stripped the drywall off
> the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. =A0I would like to
> insulate the walls. =A0What's the best way to do this?
> I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the furring
> strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block). =A0And then
> apply the drywall directly to the insulation.
> Is this possible and worth it in FL.
> -------------------------------------
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> alt.building.construction - 16354 messages and counting!
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I'd look into stripping the furing strips off, adding a vapor barrier
and farming it out with 2x3 or 2x4 follwed with convertional
insulation. You've gone to all the trouble of tearing out the
wallboard might as well do the rest right. I know you don't have a
heating issue but ac costs can be pretty high down there.

Posted by DanG on May 6, 2009, 5:10 am

You might consider having the block wall foam filled. They or you
will need to drill a lot of small diameter holes for injection.
It will maximize the R factor. My next choice would be the dead
air, rigid foam, taped and sealed, and drywall.

This would make some good reading:
http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/designsthatwork/mixedhumid/section2/index.html

If you are Ocala or north, I would think you would want to look at
the mixed humid situation.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net

> I've got a concrete block house in FL. I've stripped the
> drywall off
> the interior walls, 3/4" furring strips remain. I would like to
> insulate the walls. What's the best way to do this?
> I was wondering if I could attach rigid insulation across the
> furring
> strips (leaving an air gap between the insulation and block).
> And then
> apply the drywall directly to the insulation.
> Is this possible and worth it in FL.
> -------------------------------------
> ##-----------------------------------------------##
> Delivered via http://www.thestuccocompany.com/
> Building Construction and Maintenance Forum
> Web and RSS access to your favorite newsgroup -
> alt.building.construction - 16354 messages and counting!
> ##-----------------------------------------------##

Posted by PeterD on May 6, 2009, 9:13 am

>You might consider having the block wall foam filled. They or you
>will need to drill a lot of small diameter holes for injection.
>It will maximize the R factor. My next choice would be the dead
>air, rigid foam, taped and sealed, and drywall.
>This would make some good reading:
>http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/designsthatwork/mixedhumid/section2/index.html
>If you are Ocala or north, I would think you would want to look at
>the mixed humid situation.

Dan,

Two thoughts. I'm not sure that foam filling, after the fact, will be
cost effective. Labor intensive, lot's of drilling and patching of
holes afterwards.

(Your comments on the 'next choice' are good...)

Also, however, I don't see Ocala/north as a major factor. I'd be more
worried about 'local' humidity (coastal) than just saying north of
Ocala. (BTW, I lived in Pasco county for some years in the 60s, and in
the tropics for about half my life.)

Posted by DanG on May 7, 2009, 7:32 am

Foam filling is done after the fact on brand new work. The holes
just aren't an issue, especially if you are applying a new
interior finish - they are already plugged with foam. My Ocala
comment had to do with exposure to freezing or cold temperatures.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net

> wrote:

>>You might consider having the block wall foam filled. They or
>>you
>>will need to drill a lot of small diameter holes for injection.
>>It will maximize the R factor. My next choice would be the dead
>>air, rigid foam, taped and sealed, and drywall.
>>This would make some good reading:
>>http://www.buildingscienceconsulting.com/designsthatwork/mixedhumid/section2/index.html
>>If you are Ocala or north, I would think you would want to look
>>at
>>the mixed humid situation.

> Dan,
> Two thoughts. I'm not sure that foam filling, after the fact,
> will be
> cost effective. Labor intensive, lot's of drilling and patching
> of
> holes afterwards.
> (Your comments on the 'next choice' are good...)
> Also, however, I don't see Ocala/north as a major factor. I'd be
> more
> worried about 'local' humidity (coastal) than just saying north
> of
> Ocala. (BTW, I lived in Pasco county for some years in the 60s,
> and in
> the tropics for about half my life.)

Posted by PeterD on May 7, 2009, 9:15 am

>Foam filling is done after the fact on brand new work. The holes
>just aren't an issue, especially if you are applying a new
>interior finish - they are already plugged with foam.

Duh... How right! Not sure what I was thinking there.

> My Ocala
>comment had to do with exposure to freezing or cold temperatures.

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drywall installation - Page 2