electrical detached garage ? - Page 2

> >> jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Any electricians in the group? =A0Building a detacted garage about 12
> >>> feet from the house. =A0Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. =A0From what=

> >>> read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> >>> run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. =A0And th=
> >>> ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel=
> >>> Have I got this right???
> >> You got it. =A0But you don't need 70A in a detached garage. =A030 woul=

> >> more than ample. =A0(no pun intended)
> >> steve
> > Thanks :-)
> > Sorry my bad, detached 28x30 garage with finished space above. =A0I nee=

> > run a 1 1/2 ton heat pump (too big but the smallest they make in a
> > conventional split) and a 20 gallon hot water heater. =A0Plus the usual
> > lights/outlets. =A0Garage will be a bit of a workshop as well. =A0Got a=
> > space panel. =A02 for the heat pump, 2 for the hot water. One 20amp for
> > outlets in the garage on 12/2. =A0One 15 amp for lights and outlets in =

> > space above on 14/2. =A0Was figuring on putting one upstairs outlet on =

> > 20amp circuit for a microwave. =A0Will be a "bar" style kitchenette at =

> > end, little fridge and microwave. =A0Also a 3/4 bath in a dormer.
> > I did see that the question had been answered a lot but like everything
> > else on the internet there were a lot of different answers :-) =A0Wante=

> > make sure I had picked the best answer.
> *I would put in a 20 space panel to allow for future expansion. =A0A kitc=

> requires two 20 amp circuits and a bathroom one 20 amp circuit. =A0Check =

> these small package units from Friedrich. =A0They are great for apartment=

> condos and you don't need a technician to install them:http://www.friedri=

> - Show quoted text -

> >> jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
> >>> Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> >>> feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> >>> read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> >>> run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> >>> ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel.
> >>> Have I got this right???
> >> You got it. But you don't need 70A in a detached garage. 30 would be
> >> more than ample. (no pun intended)
> >> steve
> > Thanks :-)
> > Sorry my bad, detached 28x30 garage with finished space above. I need to
> > run a 1 1/2 ton heat pump (too big but the smallest they make in a
> > conventional split) and a 20 gallon hot water heater. Plus the usual
> > lights/outlets. Garage will be a bit of a workshop as well. Got a 6
> > space panel. 2 for the heat pump, 2 for the hot water. One 20amp for
> > outlets in the garage on 12/2. One 15 amp for lights and outlets in the
> > space above on 14/2. Was figuring on putting one upstairs outlet on the
> > 20amp circuit for a microwave. Will be a "bar" style kitchenette at one
> > end, little fridge and microwave. Also a 3/4 bath in a dormer.
> > I did see that the question had been answered a lot but like everything
> > else on the internet there were a lot of different answers :-) Wanted to
> > make sure I had picked the best answer.
> *I would put in a 20 space panel to allow for future expansion. A kitchen
> requires two 20 amp circuits and a bathroom one 20 amp circuit. Check out
> these small package units from Friedrich. They are great for apartments
> and
> condos and you don't need a technician to install
> them:http://www.friedrich.com/products/LineOverview.php?line=A- Hide
> quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

> > >> jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
> > >>> Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> > >>> feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I'v=
> > >>> read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need t=
> > >>> run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> > >>> ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub pan=

> > >>> Have I got this right???
> > >> You got it. But you don't need 70A in a detached garage. 30 would be
> > >> more than ample. (no pun intended)
> > >> steve
> > > Thanks :-)
> > > Sorry my bad, detached 28x30 garage with finished space above. I need=

> > > run a 1 1/2 ton heat pump (too big but the smallest they make in a
> > > conventional split) and a 20 gallon hot water heater. Plus the usual
> > > lights/outlets. Garage will be a bit of a workshop as well. Got a 6
> > > space panel. 2 for the heat pump, 2 for the hot water. One 20amp for
> > > outlets in the garage on 12/2. One 15 amp for lights and outlets in t=
> > > space above on 14/2. Was figuring on putting one upstairs outlet on t=
> > > 20amp circuit for a microwave. Will be a "bar" style kitchenette at o=
> > > end, little fridge and microwave. Also a 3/4 bath in a dormer.
> > > I did see that the question had been answered a lot but like everythi=
> > > else on the internet there were a lot of different answers :-) Wanted=

> > > make sure I had picked the best answer.
> > *I would put in a 20 space panel to allow for future expansion. A kitch=
> > requires two 20 amp circuits and a bathroom one 20 amp circuit. Check o=
> > these small package units from Friedrich. They are great for apartments
> > and
> > condos and you don't need a technician to install
> > them:http://www.friedrich.com/products/LineOverview.php?line=3DA-Hide
> > quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> It's not really a kitchen, more like a bar. And I figured I could get
> away with just using running the 3/4 bath off the 15 amp that the
> lights and outlets are on. =A0Think that's a bad idea? =A0The living spac=
> is inside a 12 in 12 a frame roof with a 14' shed dormer on the back
> and a couple conventional dormers on the front so it's not really all
> that big.
> http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/garage/
> Yea but all the alternative hvac systems all seem to cost 2 or 3 times
> as much as conventional splits. =A0Guess that's do to volume. =A0Cost is =
> factor of course. =A0And I can do a split install, just have to use
> silver solder on the freon lines since my copper brazing skills
> suck :-)
> *Code requires 20 amps for the bathroom unless there is only a toilet wit=
> no sink or shower. =A0If someone uses a blow dryer in there you will regr=
> sharing it with another 15 amp circuit. =A0It's up to the inspector to
> determine if the bar can be considered a kitchen or not, but if it was me=
> would put the two 20 amp circuits in there. =A0The usage of the space may
> change in the future and you may add more appliances. =A0I prefer to keep=

> lighting circuits separate from the outlet circuits when wiring rooms fro=
> scratch.
> Don't short change now while it is being built and the easiest time to
> install wiring (And plumbing). =A0If you haven't already planned to do so=

> should consider prewiring for telephone, TV and computer.
> I got a great deal on one of those Friedrich units several years ago from
> Johnstone Supply because I am an electrical contractor.- Hide quoted text=
> - Show quoted text -

> > >> jamesgan...@gmail.com wrote:
> > >>> Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> > >>> feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> > >>> read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> > >>> run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> > >>> ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub
> > >>> panel.
> > >>> Have I got this right???
> > >> You got it. But you don't need 70A in a detached garage. 30 would be
> > >> more than ample. (no pun intended)
> > >> steve
> > > Thanks :-)
> > > Sorry my bad, detached 28x30 garage with finished space above. I need
> > > to
> > > run a 1 1/2 ton heat pump (too big but the smallest they make in a
> > > conventional split) and a 20 gallon hot water heater. Plus the usual
> > > lights/outlets. Garage will be a bit of a workshop as well. Got a 6
> > > space panel. 2 for the heat pump, 2 for the hot water. One 20amp for
> > > outlets in the garage on 12/2. One 15 amp for lights and outlets in
> > > the
> > > space above on 14/2. Was figuring on putting one upstairs outlet on
> > > the
> > > 20amp circuit for a microwave. Will be a "bar" style kitchenette at
> > > one
> > > end, little fridge and microwave. Also a 3/4 bath in a dormer.
> > > I did see that the question had been answered a lot but like
> > > everything
> > > else on the internet there were a lot of different answers :-) Wanted
> > > to
> > > make sure I had picked the best answer.
> > *I would put in a 20 space panel to allow for future expansion. A
> > kitchen
> > requires two 20 amp circuits and a bathroom one 20 amp circuit. Check
> > out
> > these small package units from Friedrich. They are great for apartments
> > and
> > condos and you don't need a technician to install
> > them:http://www.friedrich.com/products/LineOverview.php?line=A-Hide
> > quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> It's not really a kitchen, more like a bar. And I figured I could get
> away with just using running the 3/4 bath off the 15 amp that the
> lights and outlets are on. Think that's a bad idea? The living space
> is inside a 12 in 12 a frame roof with a 14' shed dormer on the back
> and a couple conventional dormers on the front so it's not really all
> that big.
> http://home.earthlink.net/~jamesgangnc/garage/
> Yea but all the alternative hvac systems all seem to cost 2 or 3 times
> as much as conventional splits. Guess that's do to volume. Cost is a
> factor of course. And I can do a split install, just have to use
> silver solder on the freon lines since my copper brazing skills
> suck :-)
> *Code requires 20 amps for the bathroom unless there is only a toilet with
> no sink or shower. If someone uses a blow dryer in there you will regret
> sharing it with another 15 amp circuit. It's up to the inspector to
> determine if the bar can be considered a kitchen or not, but if it was me
> I
> would put the two 20 amp circuits in there. The usage of the space may
> change in the future and you may add more appliances. I prefer to keep the
> lighting circuits separate from the outlet circuits when wiring rooms from
> scratch.
> Don't short change now while it is being built and the easiest time to
> install wiring (And plumbing). If you haven't already planned to do so you
> should consider prewiring for telephone, TV and computer.
> I got a great deal on one of those Friedrich units several years ago from
> Johnstone Supply because I am an electrical contractor.- Hide quoted
> text -
> - Show quoted text -

>
> Yea. your'e probably right. I should switch to an 10 space
> panel rather than regret it. It's not like they are expensive
> or anything. I will run r6, phone, and cat5 while I'm at it.
>
> Any thoughts on running power, water, and sewer through a 15" by
> 9" chase? I have no idea how code treats an exterior chase
> between buildings.
>
>
> *Off hand I don't see a problem with the utilities combined in
> one chase. However you should check with your building
> department as they are the ones who can say yay or nay. Put in
> a 12/20 panel. 12 spaces, 20 circuits or a 12/ 24. You want
> more room for expansion.
>
>