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Posted by Dioclese on February 23, 2009, 11:08 am
> Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel.
> Have I got this right???
Just curious. How are you getting power to the garage, aerial or
underground? You got all the details figured on that too?
--
Dave
CDOs are how we got here.
A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
out?
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Posted by on February 23, 2009, 12:23 pm
On Feb 23, 11:08=A0am, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> > Any electricians in the group? =A0Building a detacted garage about 12
> > feet from the house. =A0Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. =A0From what I=
've
> > read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> > run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. =A0And the
> > ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel.
> > Have I got this right???
> Just curious. =A0How are you getting power to the garage, aerial or
> underground? =A0You got all the details figured on that too?
> --
> Dave
> CDOs are how we got here.
> A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
> out?
That might be a bit sketchy code wise :-) The garage sits about 12
feet away from the house. There is wrap around a deck that will hit
the garage about midway between the garage floor and the floor above.
The house ground floor is at the deck level. The house has a crawl
under it with about 5 to 6 feet of headroom. I'm going to put a
landing on the inside stairway of the garage for an exterior door on
to the deck. My thought is to build a chase under the deck and run
all my utilites, power include through the chase. The deck joists are
2x10's on 16" so the space for a chase would be between two of those
deck joists. Looks like I can get enough drop for the sewer return in
that space. Thought is that if I have the chase open to the crawl
space, between that and the heat from the sewer pipe it will keep a
water supply line from freezing. House is at the NC/VA line. I don't
plan to have any water except exterior hose bibs on the garage floor
so it will be ok to have the sewer enter the garage midway. Sketchy
part code wise is running all that stuff through a chase, not sure if
that is cool or not.
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Posted by Dioclese on February 24, 2009, 1:12 pm
On Feb 23, 11:08 am, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> > Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> > feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> > read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> > run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> > ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel.
> > Have I got this right???
> Just curious. How are you getting power to the garage, aerial or
> underground? You got all the details figured on that too?
> --
> Dave
> CDOs are how we got here.
> A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
> out?
That might be a bit sketchy code wise :-) The garage sits about 12
feet away from the house. There is wrap around a deck that will hit
the garage about midway between the garage floor and the floor above.
The house ground floor is at the deck level. The house has a crawl
under it with about 5 to 6 feet of headroom. I'm going to put a
landing on the inside stairway of the garage for an exterior door on
to the deck. My thought is to build a chase under the deck and run
all my utilites, power include through the chase. The deck joists are
2x10's on 16" so the space for a chase would be between two of those
deck joists. Looks like I can get enough drop for the sewer return in
that space. Thought is that if I have the chase open to the crawl
space, between that and the heat from the sewer pipe it will keep a
water supply line from freezing. House is at the NC/VA line. I don't
plan to have any water except exterior hose bibs on the garage floor
so it will be ok to have the sewer enter the garage midway. Sketchy
part code wise is running all that stuff through a chase, not sure if
that is cool or not.
----------
How far you are from the Atlantic Ocean coast determines mostly the degree
from freezing you'll need. East, on the coast, isn't so bad. When you get
near the Apps, it becomes more critical.
I'd put the cable in armored flex-conduit above ground. Another option is
burial. Check out the power entrance requirements needed for the garage in
whatever method you choose.
--
Dave
CDOs are how we got here.
A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
out?
|
|
Posted by on February 24, 2009, 1:43 pm
On Feb 24, 1:12=A0pm, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
> On Feb 23, 11:08 am, "Dioclese" <NONE> wrote:
.
> > > Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> > > feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> > > read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> > > run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> > > ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel=
.
> > > Have I got this right???
> > Just curious. How are you getting power to the garage, aerial or
> > underground? You got all the details figured on that too?
> > --
> > Dave
> > CDOs are how we got here.
> > A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get u=
s
> > out?
> That might be a bit sketchy code wise :-) =A0The garage sits about 12
> feet away from the house. =A0There is wrap around a deck that will hit
> the garage about midway between the garage floor and the floor above.
> The house ground floor is at the deck level. =A0The house has a crawl
> under it with about 5 to 6 feet of headroom. =A0I'm going to put a
> landing on the inside stairway of the garage for an exterior door on
> to the deck. =A0My thought is to build a chase under the deck and run
> all my utilites, power include through the chase. =A0The deck joists are
> 2x10's on 16" so the space for a chase would be between two of those
> deck joists. =A0Looks like I can get enough drop for the sewer return in
> that space. =A0Thought is that if I have the chase open to the crawl
> space, between that and the heat from the sewer pipe it will keep a
> water supply line from freezing. =A0House is at the NC/VA line. =A0I don'=
t
> plan to have any water except exterior hose bibs on the garage floor
> so it will be ok to have the sewer enter the garage midway. =A0Sketchy
> part code wise is running all that stuff through a chase, not sure if
> that is cool or not.
> ----------
> How far you are from the Atlantic Ocean coast determines mostly the degre=
e
> from freezing you'll need. =A0East, on the coast, isn't so bad. =A0When y=
ou get
> near the Apps, it becomes more critical.
> I'd put the cable in armored flex-conduit above ground. =A0Another option=
is
> burial. =A0Check out the power entrance requirements needed for the garag=
e in
> whatever method you choose.
> --
> Dave
> CDOs are how we got here.
> A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
> out?- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
It's on kerr lake so not close to the coast but not any great
elevation either. Septic tank right outside the house with a pump up
drain field so I expect there is some warmth in the drain pipes. No
vent on the tank. I was thinking maybe wrap the supply line with a 3"
drain line together. Plumbing is cpvc so I would expect it to
tolerate some light freezing.
I'm not sure why I'd put the cable inside conduit when it's already
protected? Does that lower the current rating unless I use individual
wires? I was thinking about using aluminum 4/3 with a ground. It's a
lot cheaper than copper.
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Posted by John Grabowski on February 24, 2009, 3:00 pm
> > > Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> > > feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> > > read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> > > run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> > > ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel.
> > > Have I got this right???
> > Just curious. How are you getting power to the garage, aerial or
> > underground? You got all the details figured on that too?
> > --
> > Dave
> > CDOs are how we got here.
> > A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
> > out?
> That might be a bit sketchy code wise :-) The garage sits about 12
> feet away from the house. There is wrap around a deck that will hit
> the garage about midway between the garage floor and the floor above.
> The house ground floor is at the deck level. The house has a crawl
> under it with about 5 to 6 feet of headroom. I'm going to put a
> landing on the inside stairway of the garage for an exterior door on
> to the deck. My thought is to build a chase under the deck and run
> all my utilites, power include through the chase. The deck joists are
> 2x10's on 16" so the space for a chase would be between two of those
> deck joists. Looks like I can get enough drop for the sewer return in
> that space. Thought is that if I have the chase open to the crawl
> space, between that and the heat from the sewer pipe it will keep a
> water supply line from freezing. House is at the NC/VA line. I don't
> plan to have any water except exterior hose bibs on the garage floor
> so it will be ok to have the sewer enter the garage midway. Sketchy
> part code wise is running all that stuff through a chase, not sure if
> that is cool or not.
> ----------
> How far you are from the Atlantic Ocean coast determines mostly the degree
> from freezing you'll need. East, on the coast, isn't so bad. When you get
> near the Apps, it becomes more critical.
> I'd put the cable in armored flex-conduit above ground. Another option is
> burial. Check out the power entrance requirements needed for the garage in
> whatever method you choose.
> --
> Dave
> CDOs are how we got here.
> A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get us
> out?- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
It's on kerr lake so not close to the coast but not any great
elevation either. Septic tank right outside the house with a pump up
drain field so I expect there is some warmth in the drain pipes. No
vent on the tank. I was thinking maybe wrap the supply line with a 3"
drain line together. Plumbing is cpvc so I would expect it to
tolerate some light freezing.
I'm not sure why I'd put the cable inside conduit when it's already
protected? Does that lower the current rating unless I use individual
wires? I was thinking about using aluminum 4/3 with a ground. It's a
lot cheaper than copper.
*The cable and individual conductors would need to be rated for wet
locations. It sounds as though you are planning to use service entrance
cable. It would be cheaper for materials to install PVC conduit and pull
four wires.
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Page 3 of 13 < 1 2 3 > last >>
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> feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I've
> read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need to
> run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub panel.
> Have I got this right???