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Posted by on February 24, 2009, 3:21 pm
> > > > Any electricians in the group? Building a detacted garage about 12
> > > > feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I'v=
e
> > > > read the garage need's to have it's own grounding rod. And I need t=
o
> > > > run both hots, a neutral, and a ground from the main panel. And the
> > > > ground and neutral need to NOT be connected together in the sub pan=
el.
> > > > Have I got this right???
> > > Just curious. How are you getting power to the garage, aerial or
> > > underground? You got all the details figured on that too?
> > > --
> > > Dave
> > > CDOs are how we got here.
> > > A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get=
us
> > > out?
> > That might be a bit sketchy code wise :-) The garage sits about 12
> > feet away from the house. There is wrap around a deck that will hit
> > the garage about midway between the garage floor and the floor above.
> > The house ground floor is at the deck level. The house has a crawl
> > under it with about 5 to 6 feet of headroom. I'm going to put a
> > landing on the inside stairway of the garage for an exterior door on
> > to the deck. My thought is to build a chase under the deck and run
> > all my utilites, power include through the chase. The deck joists are
> > 2x10's on 16" so the space for a chase would be between two of those
> > deck joists. Looks like I can get enough drop for the sewer return in
> > that space. Thought is that if I have the chase open to the crawl
> > space, between that and the heat from the sewer pipe it will keep a
> > water supply line from freezing. House is at the NC/VA line. I don't
> > plan to have any water except exterior hose bibs on the garage floor
> > so it will be ok to have the sewer enter the garage midway. Sketchy
> > part code wise is running all that stuff through a chase, not sure if
> > that is cool or not.
> > ----------
> > How far you are from the Atlantic Ocean coast determines mostly the deg=
ree
> > from freezing you'll need. East, on the coast, isn't so bad. When you g=
et
> > near the Apps, it becomes more critical.
> > I'd put the cable in armored flex-conduit above ground. Another option =
is
> > burial. Check out the power entrance requirements needed for the garage=
in
> > whatever method you choose.
> > --
> > Dave
> > CDOs are how we got here.
> > A modified version, new taxes in the future, is how Congress will get u=
s
> > out?- Hide quoted text -
> > - Show quoted text -
> It's on kerr lake so not close to the coast but not any great
> elevation either. =A0Septic tank right outside the house with a pump up
> drain field so I expect there is some warmth in the drain pipes. =A0No
> vent on the tank. =A0I was thinking maybe wrap the supply line with a 3"
> drain line together. =A0Plumbing is cpvc so I would expect it to
> tolerate some light freezing.
> I'm not sure why I'd put the cable inside conduit when it's already
> protected? =A0Does that lower the current rating unless I use individual
> wires? =A0I was thinking about using aluminum 4/3 with a ground. =A0It's =
a
> lot cheaper than copper.
> *The cable and individual conductors would need to be rated for wet
> locations. =A0 It sounds as though you are planning to use service entran=
ce
> cable. =A0 It would be cheaper for materials to install PVC conduit and p=
ull
> four wires.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
I'll take a look at that option. I have to go into the crawl under
the main house from an outside box, down a wall about 25ft, and then
across under the deck to the garage. My plan is to put the subpanel
fairly close to where the line comes in. The service entrance wire
looked like the cheapest but I did not look at the price on individual
aluminum #4. I know the conduit wouldn't be much.
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> > > > feet from the house. Want to put in a 70amp subpanel. From what I'v=