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Posted by KLS on June 7, 2008, 12:16 pm
On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 07:07:24 -0400, ke4fxc_at_knology_dot_net wrote:
>Hello, There was a DIY show I had seen some time back maybe 1-11/2years
>back someone wanted to expand there deck with a hot tub but they set it
>a pad to the side of a concrete patio that was off of a raise deck. They
>used a modular system of short blocks that supported a square of deck
>panel a few inches off of the concrete. the square blocks set at the
>intersection of the four deck panels all held to gather with clips and
>screws "I THINK" so if a panel was damage it could be replaced.
>It gave a nice finish to a drab concrete patio. To finish the wood deck
>look they has.
>So if the tile or what ever you used as a floor could span the distance
> between the blocks and be supported only by the corners for the load
>then you could have the air space needed under the the surface over the
>concrete with the proper vapor shield.
> Also do not let any wood touch concrete, use some sort of water proof
>membrane even if the wood is treated. Because it could act as a wick.
>Some people say it doesn't matter but what the harm in adding a little
>insurance to keep from having problems down the road.
You're thinking of Dek-Block piers, which we used with very good
results outside. Home Depot and Lowe's sell these. It's an
interesting idea for a basement application and seems the cheapest way
to achieve what the OP wants to do.
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Posted by hallerb@aol.com on June 7, 2008, 12:41 pm
> On Sat, 07 Jun 2008 07:07:24 -0400, ke4fxc_at_knology_dot_net wrote:
> >Hello, There was a DIY show I had seen some time back maybe 1-11/2years
> >back someone wanted to expand there deck with a hot tub but they set it
> >a pad to the side of a concrete patio that was off of a raise deck. They
> >used a modular system of short blocks that supported a square of deck
> >panel a few inches off of the concrete. the square blocks set at the
> >intersection of the four deck panels all held to gather with clips and
> >screws "I THINK" so if a panel was damage it could be replaced.
> >It gave a nice finish to a drab concrete patio. To finish the wood deck
> >look they has.
> >So if the tile or what ever you used as a floor could span the distance
> > =EF=BF=BDbetween the blocks and be supported only by the corners for the=
load
> >then you could have the air space needed under the the surface over the
> >concrete with the proper vapor shield.
> > =EF=BF=BDAlso do not let any wood touch concrete, use some sort of water=
proof
> >membrane even if the wood is treated. Because it could act as a wick.
> >Some people say it doesn't matter but what the harm in adding a little
> >insurance to keep from having problems down the road.
> You're thinking of Dek-Block piers, which we used with very good
> results outside. =EF=BF=BDHome Depot and Lowe's sell these. =EF=BF=BDIt's =
an
> interesting idea for a basement application and seems the cheapest way
> to achieve what the OP wants to do.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -
another downside, many basements are short on headroom, so anything
that decreases it futher is a downer........
a good underslab or french drain is better.........
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Posted by on June 7, 2008, 12:15 pm
On Fri, 6 Jun 2008 13:27:50 -0400, "mr jones"
>poured concrete basement (walls & floor).
>saw other thread here w/gentleman asking questions
>about subfloors. out of courtesy, did not want to
>"hijack" the thread.
>question, instead of laying down a subfloor of wood,
>tile, carpet, etc.
>has anyone ever considered using a "raised" floor
>system ? of the sort that consists of square tiles,
>supported at each corner by a series of legs that
>stand on the concrete below the tiles.
>i tried to google this, and have found no residential
>applications of that type of raised flooring systems.
>it would seem to be a great idea (airflow underneath
>to dissipate any moisture concerns, as well as it's
>intended commercial use of having a space to lay all
>kinds of cabling underneath).
>not sure what the cost would be, imagine it could
>get expensive. but, is the idea something that's
>appropriate for a home basement ? (presuming the ceiling
>height is present to accomodate the fundamental raised
>design of it).
>it would seem to me, it's a suspended ceiling in reverse.
Hi,
This link may offer what you're considering.
http://www.mutualmaterials.com/Professional_producttype.asp?pt_id=103
Check out the 'appian way pedastal system' at the bottom of the page.
One purpose of the system is for commercial building rooftops that are
sloped for drainage, but a people friendly, level outdoor floor is
desired. The system consists of a cap that interlocks the corners of
the tiles and a base that sits on the bottom. In between, four inch
abs or pvc is cut to length to act as the support leg for the cap.
I used these tiles on my deck. I doubled up the joists to support the
weight of the tiles and to provide a wide enough support for the cap.
As the deck was built level, I only needed the cap part of the system
to hold the tiles.
A raised floor of this type would be a piece of cake to install over a
level basement concrete floor. Except for carrying them down the
stairs!
I built my deck five years ago, and I love it. Virtually maintenance
free. Every couple years I hose it down and put a sealer on it, just
for looks.
The tiles were 18x18 inches and under two inches thick.
They were in the $5-6 range.
They were easy enough to cut on my 10 inch tile saw
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>back someone wanted to expand there deck with a hot tub but they set it
>a pad to the side of a concrete patio that was off of a raise deck. They
>used a modular system of short blocks that supported a square of deck
>panel a few inches off of the concrete. the square blocks set at the
>intersection of the four deck panels all held to gather with clips and
>screws "I THINK" so if a panel was damage it could be replaced.
>It gave a nice finish to a drab concrete patio. To finish the wood deck
>look they has.
>So if the tile or what ever you used as a floor could span the distance
> between the blocks and be supported only by the corners for the load
>then you could have the air space needed under the the surface over the
>concrete with the proper vapor shield.
> Also do not let any wood touch concrete, use some sort of water proof
>membrane even if the wood is treated. Because it could act as a wick.
>Some people say it doesn't matter but what the harm in adding a little
>insurance to keep from having problems down the road.