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Subject Author Date
flashing addition Gary 09-12-2007
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Posted by Gary on September 12, 2007, 9:40 pm
I plan on building a small gable cover over my side door My siding is flat
tongue and grove 1x12 with a revel milled out to look like log .Should I cut
into the siding and use flashing between the plywood tyvec and siding or is
there another way



Posted by Robert Allison on September 12, 2007, 10:25 pm
Gary wrote:

> I plan on building a small gable cover over my side door My siding is flat
> tongue and grove 1x12 with a revel milled out to look like log .Should I cut
> into the siding and use flashing between the plywood tyvec and siding or is
> there another way
>
>

Not a good one.

--
Robert Allison        
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

Posted by RicodJour on September 13, 2007, 9:11 am
> I plan on building a small gable cover over my side door My siding is flat
> tongue and grove 1x12 with a revel milled out to look like log .Should I cut
> into the siding and use flashing between the plywood tyvec and siding or is
> there another way

Cutting away the siding where the new roof framing (rafter? ledger?)
will attach to the existing wall is pretty standard with most
sidings. That allows you to slip the flashing up under the Tyvec and
siding.

It's also possible to cut a groove in the siding, about half the
thickness, and use flashing that has a return (almost a hem but not
shut tight - it's V-shaped and wedges into the slot, with caulk in the
slot before insertion and covered completely with caulk after
insertion). That's more typically a masonry/flashing detail, but it
works okay in thicker wood siding that's flat (profiled siding makes
it tough to do).

You should go with the first option.

R


Posted by Gary on September 14, 2007, 11:38 am

>> I plan on building a small gable cover over my side door My siding is
>> flat
>> tongue and grove 1x12 with a revel milled out to look like log .Should I
>> cut
>> into the siding and use flashing between the plywood tyvec and siding or
>> is
>> there another way
>
> Cutting away the siding where the new roof framing (rafter? ledger?)
> will attach to the existing wall is pretty standard with most
> sidings. That allows you to slip the flashing up under the Tyvec and
> siding.
>
> It's also possible to cut a groove in the siding, about half the
> thickness, and use flashing that has a return (almost a hem but not
> shut tight - it's V-shaped and wedges into the slot, with caulk in the
> slot before insertion and covered completely with caulk after
> insertion). That's more typically a masonry/flashing detail, but it
> works okay in thicker wood siding that's flat (profiled siding makes
> it tough to do).
>
> You should go with the first option.
>
> RI will go with the first option I will be using 2x8 ledgers/rafters and
> 5/8 plywood plus fiberglass shingles What would be a rec. w idth of the
> cut I am thinking 9 inches????Thanks for the input



Posted by RicodJour on September 15, 2007, 8:46 am
>
> >> I plan on building a small gable cover over my side door My siding is
> >> flat
> >> tongue and grove 1x12 with a revel milled out to look like log .Should I
> >> cut
> >> into the siding and use flashing between the plywood tyvec and siding or
> >> is
> >> there another way
>
> > Cutting away the siding where the new roof framing (rafter? ledger?)
> > will attach to the existing wall is pretty standard with most
> > sidings. That allows you to slip the flashing up under the Tyvec and
> > siding.
>
> > R

> I will go with the first option I will be using 2x8 ledgers/rafters and
> 5/8 plywood plus fiberglass shingles What would be a rec. w idth of the
> cut I am thinking 9 inches????Thanks for the input

The bottom of the siding should be at least an inch above the top of
the shingles. Mock up the assembly and take a measurement so their
won't be any surprises - then have at it.

R


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