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Posted by MaxChunk@ergebnis.de on August 9, 2006, 2:29 am
There's a bunch of odd ideas in this... some of the advice is be OK, but...
Alan wrote:
> David Axt wrote:
>
>>I need to hang Hardie board siding on my house but can't find anybody to
>>help me. Funny how that happens. Anyhow, is there some sort of jig that I
>>can use to help me hang the siding in place while I nail it.
I am guessing you're using Hardiplank, so if you are using the panels
this doesn't apply: There is a tool that can be used to hold one end.
It will still be a lot slower than having two people. It's hard to
describe: Get some thin 0.050" or so steel, about an inch wide and 10"
long. Bend like a "J", and drill a hole in the top. Tack a nail in the
nail hole into your house and rest the plank on the bottom of the "J".
Nail the plank to the house, remove nail, slide jig out, and repeat
process. Not fast, but works.
>>
>>Thanks,
>>David
>
>
> When I put on Hardi-backer siding,
It's not Hardi-backer, it's Hardiplank or else HardiPanel. The OP
doesn't say. HardiBacker is backerboard, a product used in kitchens and
restrooms as a "moisture and mold resistant substitute for drywall".
mostly by myself, I created a
> measuring stick out of a piece of OSB scrap, wide enough so that it
> also allowed me to balance and hold up the board flush into position
> over the lap below, while I struggled momentarily to drill and then
> screw in the Middle screw along a section. Then, I checked, drilled,
> and screwed each end, and then completed the process for each stud
> between.
Sounds like this will work OK.
>
> If you haven't started yet, I highly recommend putting a layer of 3/4"
> R-Guard Insulfoam over the wrapped OSB. This stuff is sold at Home
> Depot in our area for a rather low price and has major
> benefits--insulation of the framing and exterior is the best place to
> put insulation, especially from extremes of summer and winter weather,
> and the a bug and another vapor barrier is much better than house wrap
> alone.
Foam is awful stuff if you want your house to "breath". In some
climates foam will trap moisture and cause condensation problems,
leading to rot and insect problems. The wood inside your walls will stay
wetter.
During the heat wave we experienced recently, the side of the
> house with this was by far the most comfortable and less in need of
> a/c. We found same thing last winter for these rooms.
>
> Before installation of the foam layer, the OSB is fully wrapped with
> roofing felt or house wrapp, or both, and then I put non-rusting
> bi-metal flashing along the sill plate, stepping up the foam 1/2" up
> from the foundation. I caulked along the foundation flashing, inside,
> outside and along the foam edge. I used a couple cans of spray glue to
> tack on foam sheets to the felt, and then used the pink Owens-Corning
> house wrap tape to seal seams between foam sheets. The glue just holds
> long enough to get the Hardi-backer siding in place, that's all. The
> flashing at the sill plate will eliminate the need to have a bottom
> starter course to raise the bottom edge of the hardi-backer siding, but
> I also raised the bottom lap 1/2" off the foundation to eliminate water
> wicking into the Hardi-backer, and then caulked again along this edge.
>
Flashing and wrap = good. Felt = good.
Fussing with glue will make the job very tedious and messy. It's not
needed.
> The Hardi-backer when screwed on with good quality deck screws will
> pull up snug and compress the foam material slightly. Use one of those
> quick-set reversible bits, to quickly swap between the drill and screw
> bit on your cordless drill. Make sure to recess the screw heads a bit
> for flush layers, and put a wide bead of caulk along the screw heads
> before you fumble to get the next board up.
You could drill and screw, and if you're having to work with delicate
foam underneath, then that's probably mandatory. But Hardie says you
can use a framing nailer... this will be much faster. For close to the
edges a drill *is* a good idea, since the Hardiboard can fracture near
edges.
After installing all the
> siding, caulk the foundation and overlaps again. I many contractor
> boxes of 35 yr white caulk, but you don't want any cracks where insects
> or anything can climb inside. But, if they do, the foam will be there.
>
It's highly unlikely that caulk will keep out insects. Or foam. There
will always be uneveness where bugs can get in, and they will if there's
a food source (rotting material, and other bugs that eat the bugs that
eat the rotting material). Trying to seal everything with caulk will
take way too long. Sealing things up too much can slow drying.
> Good luck...
>
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