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install Hardie board siding - alone David Axt 08-07-2006
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Posted by MaxChunk@ergebnis.de on August 11, 2006, 1:25 am
> I've had engineers tell me that old wood is not a strong as new lumber,
> but I don't believe that.

I don't see how they can make that claim. These days they're gluing
together plywood to make "beams"... what's next, pressed-wood beams?
But as you say, if you could even find the old solid wood, you can't
afford it.


> But, for the final question here, the new spray foam (sold by
> www.tigerfoam.com) eliminate the condensation problem if all dried wood
> studs and interior sheathing is covered--before placing the batts?
> They claim it eliminates condensation the wood, and that mold won't
> grow on the foam.

I can't speak for California conditions, but here we get a lot of
internal moisture due to cooking and showers that needs to exit the
house. If the house is sealed tightly on all continuous surfaces with
something that won't "breath", then the moisture will travel out through
any gaps, and that is usually the windows sills and trim, and between
the seams of the hardboard siding (on a house with that siding). So the
best strategy if you want the house to last is to always use materials
that breath, not vapor barriers.

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Posted by Alan on August 11, 2006, 12:49 pm
In our California home, we have a fans in the bathroom and kitchen, so
the need for moisture to exit through cracks in walls should be a
non-issue. Even if the fans are turned off, the pressure can escape
this way, and through open doors and windows, I suppose.

MaxChunk@ergebnis.de wrote:
> > I've had engineers tell me that old wood is not a strong as new lumber,
> > but I don't believe that.
>
> I don't see how they can make that claim. These days they're gluing
> together plywood to make "beams"... what's next, pressed-wood beams?
> But as you say, if you could even find the old solid wood, you can't
> afford it.
>
>
> > But, for the final question here, the new spray foam (sold by
> > www.tigerfoam.com) eliminate the condensation problem if all dried wood
> > studs and interior sheathing is covered--before placing the batts?
> > They claim it eliminates condensation the wood, and that mold won't
> > grow on the foam.
>
> I can't speak for California conditions, but here we get a lot of
> internal moisture due to cooking and showers that needs to exit the
> house. If the house is sealed tightly on all continuous surfaces with
> something that won't "breath", then the moisture will travel out through
> any gaps, and that is usually the windows sills and trim, and between
> the seams of the hardboard siding (on a house with that siding). So the
> best strategy if you want the house to last is to always use materials
> that breath, not vapor barriers.


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