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Posted by Glenn on February 18, 2007, 12:55 pm
It should be a simple fix.
Go out to the water meter and shut it off there. Go back inside,
pull the leaking valve apart, put in a new washer and that Should
fix it. If the seat is roughed up, you may need a seat buffer
but I doubt it.
>I cannot picture what you did, could you expand slightly please -
>how much was your leaking?
>
> I actually have to fix 2 lines (hot and cold) at the elbows,
> including maybe 4" either side. So I need 4 cuts. I am
> thinking I I could solder up some angles beforehand and I could
> use 5/8" compression fittings on the 4 ends, but don't know with
> all this water and I don't know if I can use a spin-cutter, &/or
> dremel, &/or 4-1/2" grinding wheel, &/or hack saw blade
> considering access. At a cup in less then a minute, that could
> quickly be a mess.
>
> I have never used a compression fitting, and do not know how
> smooth, straight the ends need to be (i.e. if cut shove a rasp
> in it, done is enough), nor if I can do a good job with water
> leaking through it at the time. Is there any reason to suspect
> this doesn't always go as planned?
>
> PS more info on original problem please. I know this situation
> isn't good.
>
>
>> I recently had the same problem at my own house. 90 year old
>> shut off
>> valve wouldn't shut off. I "solved" the problem by adding a
>> valve
>> just downstream of the water meter, so I could shut the water
>> off
>> completely to my house. The water meter had a compression type
>> fitting, so it was possible to pull this off even with water
>> leaking
>> out of it. The other solution is to shut off the water to your
>> whole
>> house at the street. Your city water dept should be able to
>> help you
>> find the valve. Then you need what is called a "street key" to
>> turn
>> the valve closed (might have to have a licensed plumber to do
>> this).
>>
>>
>
>
>
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