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Posted by marson on February 18, 2007, 4:13 pm
> I cannot picture what you did, could you expand slightly please - how much
> was your leaking?
>
> I actually have to fix 2 lines (hot and cold) at the elbows, including maybe
> 4" either side. So I need 4 cuts. I am thinking I I could solder up some
> angles beforehand and I could use 5/8" compression fittings on the 4 ends,
> but don't know with all this water and I don't know if I can use a
> spin-cutter, &/or dremel, &/or 4-1/2" grinding wheel, &/or hack saw blade
> considering access. At a cup in less then a minute, that could quickly be a
> mess.
>
> I have never used a compression fitting, and do not know how smooth,
> straight the ends need to be (i.e. if cut shove a rasp in it, done is
> enough), nor if I can do a good job with water leaking through it at the
> time. Is there any reason to suspect this doesn't always go as planned?
>
> PS more info on original problem please. I know this situation isn't good.
>
>
> > I recently had the same problem at my own house. 90 year old shut off
> > valve wouldn't shut off. I "solved" the problem by adding a valve
> > just downstream of the water meter, so I could shut the water off
> > completely to my house. The water meter had a compression type
> > fitting, so it was possible to pull this off even with water leaking
> > out of it. The other solution is to shut off the water to your whole
> > house at the street. Your city water dept should be able to help you
> > find the valve. Then you need what is called a "street key" to turn
> > the valve closed (might have to have a licensed plumber to do this).
>
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My water comes up in the basement floor, then a valve, then a short
horizontal run to the meter, and then goes up from there. I unscrewed
it from the downstream end of the meter, let 'er leak for awhile,
while I installed a ball valve in the vertical section.
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