|
Posted by bsd_mike on September 5, 2006, 6:41 pm
Thanks everybody. I will call some local masonry people. There are a
couple
in the town where the building is located. When I called early this
summer,
they were way too busy to visit...perhaps now they have time for a
chat.
I do know this...When they put the new roof on a few years ago, they
put
no flashing at all....I guess I never noticed until you mentioned it
and I looked.
Thanks again everybody.
-Mike
clintonG wrote:
> Make the calls Mike. The whole-wrap concept doesn't sound as if it may ap=
ply
> but you never know what you're going to learn when talking to a couple of
> two or three real dudes who wear dirty pants if you know what I mean. Sta=
rt
> local and work your way out.
> Finally, as I see it, you're still focused on the cure when you should be
> determining the cause. My experience working with older buildings that ha=
ve
> decayed masonry almost always starts and ends where the roof meets the
> walls. That's where you find f*cked up or no flashing, rotted roof members
> and so on that cause further problems. Make the calls. Start local and wo=
rk
> your way out.
> <%=3D Clinton Gallagher
> NET csgallagher AT metromilwaukee.com
> URL http://clintongallagher.metromilwaukee.com/
> MAP 43=B02'17"N 88=B02'37"W : 43=B02'17"N 88=B02'37"W
> Clinton,
> Thanks for your reply and the idea. I don't know that I could wrap it
> though is
> the building abuts up to a building in the back and one on a side.
> Only 1
> side and the front are exposed. The front is made with a different
> type of
> brick and it seems to show no signs of decay.
> The bricks on the bottom where one can reach without a ladder are very
> solid
> and there are no cracks in the mortar. The top row is another story
> though..
> and..perhaps as you say, below that too.
> What should I do for a temporary fix? Would it slow the decay process
> if
> I cleaned out the current decay and built it back up with mortar?
> Thanks,
> Mike
> clintonG wrote:
> > You could be fighting a losing battle. Take a screwdriver and work your
> > way
> > down the courses from top to bottom of the wall(s). If you can crumble
> > existing mortar using modest pressure to scratch along the bed joint you
> > have a serious degradation. Historically speaking, if the building was
> > worth
> > keeping the wall(s) would have to be tuckpointed or replaced.
> > This already seems to be obvious to you at the top of the wall where the
> > roof structure and flashing have played a role -- over time -- in
> > contributing to the decay you have observed. Ordinarily I would presume
> > this
> > little building has met its useful lifetime but there is good news...
> > There has been some interesting developments in face brick surfacing
> > techniques in regions prone to earthquake where unreinforced brick
> > structures fall down and go boom. There are techniqes developed that wr=
ap
> > the brick building with a type of fabric which is sprayed with something
> > to
> > form a "girdle." Even decayed brickwork remains strong in compression
> > (almost always that is) so the girdle is a reasonable way to restrict or
> > prevent the brickwork from falling down due to lateral forces that may =
be
> > present. There are variations on these girdling themes. It may be possi=
ble
> > to wrap your little building like this and get another couple of decades
> > of
> > use out of it. Maybe many more decades outliving you! Check out historic
> > masonry restoration contractors around San Francisco which I recall was
> > the
> > area where this new technique was created and is being used.
> > <%=3D Clinton Gallagher
> > NET csgallagher AT metromilwaukee.com
> > URL http://clintongallagher.metromilwaukee.com/
> > MAP 43=B02'17"N 88=B02'37"W : 43=B02'17"N 88=B02'37"W
> > >I have a small storage building made out of brick, about the size of a
> > > 1-car garage.
> > > It has two walls, and inside wall made out of blocks and an external
> > > brick wall.
> > > (A phone company built this long ago)
> > > On one side of the building, some of the bricks on the top row are
> > > starting to decay.
> > > The tops of 3 of them have crumbled....and a few more look like they
> > > want to
> > > crumble. about 1/8 to 1/4 have crumbled and fallen off...one is as
> > > deep as
> > > 1/2 the brick has broken off. The rest of the brick is solidly
> > > connected to its
> > > mates.
> > > The rest of the bricks in the wall seem fine, but I am afraid if I
> > > start
> > > up on the top row with a chisel to remove the rest of the broken
> > > bricks, I will damage
> > > bricks under or beside the crumbling brick.
> > > Is it better to clean out the crumbled brick and build the hight of t=
he
> > > brick back up
> > > with some kind of quick set morter?
> > > Is there anything I seal the bricks with to protect the rest?
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mike
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap
> 1-car garage.
> It has two walls, and inside wall made out of blocks and an external
> brick wall.
> (A phone company built this long ago)
> On one side of the building, some of the bricks on the top row are
> starting to decay.
> The tops of 3 of them have crumbled....and a few more look like they
> want to
> crumble. about 1/8 to 1/4 have crumbled and fallen off...one is as
> deep as
> 1/2 the brick has broken off. The rest of the brick is solidly
> connected to its
> mates.
> The rest of the bricks in the wall seem fine, but I am afraid if I
> start
> up on the top row with a chisel to remove the rest of the broken
> bricks, I will damage
> bricks under or beside the crumbling brick.
> Is it better to clean out the crumbled brick and build the hight of the
> brick back up
> with some kind of quick set morter?
> Is there anything I seal the bricks with to protect the rest?
> Thanks,
> Mike
>