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Building Construction - Building Construction Industry Discussions.
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Posted by bent on April 5, 2007, 4:18 pm
I finally got a new main water shut-off ball valve installed in the same
position as the old handwheel- type leaking valve just before my water
meter. Before I patch notched studs and drywall and paint all around it, and
then install a ceramic floor tile there are a couple of issues I need to be
considered about possible corrosion and re-positioning issues. The plumber
may have mentioned that the pipe coming up through the dirt, then through
the slab is "lead". I looked at it. Its got green corrosion, and golden
colour apparent chipping through it. I think its copper. Currently, other
than it, the only thing other than copper/brass is the one remaining good
ground wire clamp. And my limestone screeding idea.
I need to cut off the old main electrical-panel ground wire clamp which is
now attached even before the valve. Its currently in dirt, which is below
the concrete slab level; the new installed valve itself will be surrounded
by tile. The clamp on the pipe itself that comes up through the ground as
well as the connection screw eye on that end of the twisted steel wire which
completes the circuit (possibly if the water meter needs to be disconnected)
have both corroded through and there is nothing to clamp to:to. I am not
sure where I am going to place the new electrical ground clamp on the street
side of the meter. Probably one that looks the same as the one on the other
side. A (o)+ clamp with screws on either side to clamp the wire directly to
the copper supply-line pipe, with a slot with screw to clamp the bare
twisted wire into +. Its on copper pipe. the Horozontal pipe immediately
downstream from the water meter. So I'll put one on the other, closet to
the street side, of the water meter. This will be after the new valve, but
the only other option is below the soon to be tiled floor!
I also want to fill the gap in the concrete slab (a 6" x 6" void with square
edges right down into the dirt to China) so I can cut to fit a ceramic floor
tile. Nobody will even put too much weight on it, but it is the last of any
areas where the tiles will need to be installed right up to the edges of the
floor. I won't thinset the screeding, just the outer parts of the tile
leveled on the surrounding concrete slab. Hmm....a humped screeding.
These questions are all about dissimilar metals, water , and possibly
electricity.:
Q1
Proposed location and probable steel material of a soon-to-be-purchased new
electrical ground wire clamp attached directly to horizontal copper
supply-line pipe after the (Vertically installed) new valve (embedded in
tile w/ gap) but just before the water meter.[steel on copper]. There seems
to be no problem with corrosion on the original/remaining location, but I am
also changing the location, because of the tiling needed.
Q2
Spreading and leveling limestone screening into the dirt hole in the
concrete slab, which will pour and pack loosely right up to the main water
supply line (I think its copper, but lead it may be ). I think the very
lowest extent of the new brass ball shut-off valve is gonna be slightly
above the leveled screeding line, about half way up the height of the
ceramic floor tile itself.
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Posted by bent on April 5, 2007, 8:49 pm
I bought an identical brass ground clamp at HD, which they call a wet clamp,
and sell beside the steel (dry) clamp for a buck and a half more. I am not
planning on changing the other original steel one. Don't know what I'd do
if they should be the same. I see no reason why I can't just put the new
one after the new ball valve, befor the water meter. I guess I could put it
on the valve itself. In fact the whole thing is a bit ridiculous, but
better than going back. Is it something to do with by-passing the water
meter itself? I assume electricity will flow through a brass ball valve
into the earth?
So its down to the limestone screeding. It sets up pretty hard when after
it gets wet, which it probably will from under. I have reconsidered and
decided to put a rubber wrap / flexible gasket around the pipe anyway,
before I pour, spread and pack the screeding. This may not negate any or
all possible extreme corrsosion issue(s), but will isolate it from any
forces or shock at least. I am still curious if there are corrosion
concerns. Or even type of rubber issues.
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Posted by bent on April 5, 2007, 9:22 pm
btw, I have newsfeeds.com for a news server. In the last week or so I have
lost the newgroups rec.woodworking and alt.support.diabetes. Possibly
others, such as this. They may even have disapperred/reappeared/even
re-disappeared. I am not sure what is going on. If you read the std. sig
at the end of this post you will see one of the reasons. I'm not sure if
its in my pooter only, or wot. Would anyone check the wreck and let me know
whats going on, either here or by e-mail to me.
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Posted by bent on April 6, 2007, 1:06 pm
Limestone is alkaline, the opposite of acidic, on the pH scale I have put
lime on acidic soil, where the grass didin't grow under the cedars, and
where the moss was. It is not chemically neutral. Its got a lot of uses,
just not sure if this is a good one. Don't know what the pH of the dirt is.
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Posted by bent on April 6, 2007, 1:27 pm
"ANSI/NSF 61: Drinking Water System Components-Health Effects. This is the
health standard for all plumbing products and materials that come in contact
with potable water. Copper water tube, copper fittings, and copper and brass
plumbing valves and fixtures are covered by NSF Standard 61. The Standard
specifies that copper tube be evaluated at a pH of 6.5, rather than at the
pH of 5 and 10 for other material types."
&
"Copper tube (Alloy C12200) is Certified by NSF to ANSI/NSF Standard 61 for
public water supplies meeting or in the process of meeting the EPA Lead and
Copper Rule (56FR 26460, June 7, 1991). Water supplies with pH less than 6.5
may require corrosion control to limit copper solubility in drinking water.
"
from
http://www.nsf.org/business/newsroom/plumbing99-1/coppercert.html
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