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Posted by Wayne Whitney on October 28, 2007, 3:50 pm
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> A ridge beam just probably isn't the best option if you're wanting
> to clear span the entire 24 feet. If you can add a post in the
> middle you could bring it down to more reasonable lumber sizes, but
> then you've got a post right in the middle of the room.
You could bring the post down to a beam that would span the short
direction, then you'd have just one really big ceiling joist. :-)
Cheers, Wayne
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Posted by HerHusband on October 27, 2007, 12:06 pm
Matt,
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>> I don't know where you're located, but assuming a 30lb per square
>> foot load (average snow loads), your 16x24 roof would need to hold
>> 11,520 pounds. A structural ridge would carry half that weight, the
>> walls would carry the other half. So, your ridge would need to
>> support 5760 pounds.
> What about the dead load?
I'm no engineer, just an experienced amateur builder. The 30 pound load is
what we use locally as the "total load" for roofs. 10 pounds of that is
dead load (the weight of the building materials), the other 20 is live load
(the weight of snow, etc.). Obviously, if you're putting heavy tile on the
roof you'll need to increase the dead load, and if you get heavy snows in
your area you'll need to increase the live load.
Regardless, it would still take a rather hefty ridge beam to support that
roof, not to mention the additional foundation requirements to support the
loads at each end.
Anthony
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Posted by jloomis on October 26, 2007, 10:22 am
Need to use a ridge beam. 24' is a long span but available. 6x12 or......
Why not a shed roof? Not very pretty but no collar ties.......
jloomis
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> Hi,
> I'm a DIYer that's making plans to build a wood working shed in my
> backyard. I do woodworking as a hobby but I've never done any
> construction such as this. The workshop is going to be 16x24. I want
> it to be very open and have enough room vertically for moving wood
> around etc. I'm planning on building the roof using ridge board
> construction. My question is can I build the roof in such a way that
> I would not have to have ceiling joists? I would really like the
> vertical space without having really high side walls.
> The roof will have an 8/12 slope built with 2x6 24" o.c. and a 2x8
> ridge board. Using collar beams would be fine since they would still
> give me lots of vertical space. The side walls are most likely going
> to be 9'.
> I appreciate your help!
> Thanks,
> Greg
>
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Posted by Glenn on October 26, 2007, 11:28 am
Let's get realistic here. The shed isn't much bigger
than a dog house. On my shop 24 x 40, I have 9'
plates/ceilings with joists every 4' with a drop in the
center of them down from the ridge. I air nailed the
hell out of them on the ends to the rafter and I can
hang a car engine in the center of the joist by the
drop.
If you put only joists every 8 foot on that little shop
that would mean only 2 going the 16 ft way and with 4 x
8 sheathing nailed really well, it will be there long
after you are gone.
show/hide quoted text
> Hi,
> I'm a DIYer that's making plans to build a wood
> working shed in my
> backyard. I do woodworking as a hobby but I've never
> done any
> construction such as this. The workshop is going to
> be 16x24. I want
> it to be very open and have enough room vertically
> for moving wood
> around etc. I'm planning on building the roof using
> ridge board
> construction. My question is can I build the roof in
> such a way that
> I would not have to have ceiling joists? I would
> really like the
> vertical space without having really high side walls.
> The roof will have an 8/12 slope built with 2x6 24"
> o.c. and a 2x8
> ridge board. Using collar beams would be fine since
> they would still
> give me lots of vertical space. The side walls are
> most likely going
> to be 9'.
> I appreciate your help!
> Thanks,
> Greg
>
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Posted by Dave on October 27, 2007, 12:01 pm
> Hi,
> I'm a DIYer that's making plans to build a wood working shed in my
> backyard. I do woodworking as a hobby but I've never done any
> construction such as this. The workshop is going to be 16x24. I want
> it to be very open and have enough room vertically for moving wood
> around etc. I'm planning on building the roof using ridge board
> construction. My question is can I build the roof in such a way that
> I would not have to have ceiling joists? I would really like the
> vertical space without having really high side walls.
> The roof will have an 8/12 slope built with 2x6 24" o.c. and a 2x8
> ridge board. Using collar beams would be fine since they would still
> give me lots of vertical space. The side walls are most likely going
> to be 9'.
> I appreciate your help!
> Thanks,
> Greg
Depends where you are. If snow load is a factor for instance. Where I
live, snow load is of no consequence here. This is important regarding the
roof framing structure requirements.
If snowload is not a factor, I would go with 2X6 16" OC rafters and ceiling
joists. 10' studs with fireblocking to address the overhead concerns. A
beam to support the ridge and joists. Put continuous studs under that wall
that supports the beam on both ends. Run a doubled up 2X12 beam across the
24' section midway. Put some mild 1/4" plate steel in it. 16' 2X12 will
work if on one side is centered, scabbed the remaining ends. And, on other
side 2 12' sections. Bolt together every foot top and bottom. Run a 2X2 on
the bottom both sides of the beam. Birdmouth the ceiling joists to tie into
the beam. Toss some plywood on the ceiling joists for a work area to build
the ridge, tack nail the plywood. Nail a 2X6 flat, on top of the beam, full
length of the beam, and nail it well. That 2X6 edge should be 3/4" offset
from center of the beam. Nail a 2X6 90 degrees with end up to the 2X6 you
just nailed to the beam (you'll see why in a minute, its standing up).
Double up 2 2X6s, nail together well. Cut down to the center, 1.5" slice,
the height of the bottom of the ridge board. The ridge board will be
supported by these during intial construction of the ridge, not for the ends
or where the 2 ridge board join. Temporarily brace these 2X6s accordingly
to get proper plumb and so forth. Mount the ridge boards, butt tight, ends
can run long for now. Tack-Nail the doubled up 2X6s to the ridge board.
Beginning at each wall, and working to the center, add a 2X6 every 64"
parallel and underneath the ridge board. The bottoms should be nailed to
the 2X6 that's standing on end I previously mentioned. These actually
support the ridge. Brace for plumb both ends of these added 2X6s. Remove
the temporaries. When done, add a 2X6 between each of these supports at
approximately 45 degrees. Starting at the wall, point on the beam to the
corner of the ridge and support. Run until nearing the center of the ridge,
do similar with other side. Effectively, a girder truss. Remove any
temporary bracing. Cut off the wild ends of the ridge boards. Add your
rafters. Pull up the plywood and shove it off. Frame any remaining wall
structures incidental to the roof framing.
Dave
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Page 4 of 4 << first < 1 2 3
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> to clear span the entire 24 feet. If you can add a post in the
> middle you could bring it down to more reasonable lumber sizes, but
> then you've got a post right in the middle of the room.