pitch on slab

	pitch on slab

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Subject

Author

Date

pitch on slab

PaulS

02-13-2008

firewoodguy

Steve

Glenn

marson

PaulS

marson

Rudy

Dioclese

DanG

Erik Dillenkofe...

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Posted by PaulS on February 14, 2008, 10:44 am

>> Besides what has been said, 2" is a lot of fall. Put a

>> car in neutral and leave it and you may find it has

>> rolled out into the street.

>> >I have a garage plan that calls for a monolithic slab

>> >with a 2" pitch toward the garage door. It looks like

>> >the walls are bolted directly to the slab. My

>> >question is, wouldn't that make the whole frame out of

>> >level? How is this normally handled? It is a

>> >detatched garage.

>> > Thanks,

>> > Paul

> I don't necessarily disagree with the above--a row of cmu or a poured

> curb is a good thing. But if you are bolting walls directly to the

> slab, it will have to be framed so that the top plate is level. Not

> that big a deal for a good framer.

Thanks to all for your replies. I have heard of using a curb as well as a
row of cmu to move everything up 8". My neighbor recently had a garage
build on slab with a row of cmu. I will go over with a level and see if
there is a pitch to the floor. I guess marson answered what was unclear to
me. If the floor is pitched without a curb, the walls of the 3 sides would
need to be adjusted for the pitch. That looks like a headache to me. I plan
on building this thing myself and I don't consider myself a framer at all,
just an old man who can follow instructions. So I will not try that. I
will get the plan approved by the permit department, but I want to have a
solid idea of exactly what I will do before meeting with them. I probably
will pour the footing and walls, then the floor so I can get whatever pitch
they tell me I need. Thanks,
Paul

Posted by marson on February 15, 2008, 7:50 am

> >> Besides what has been said, 2" is a lot of fall. Put a

> >> car in neutral and leave it and you may find it has

> >> rolled out into the street.

> >> >I have a garage plan that calls for a monolithic slab

> >> >with a 2" pitch toward the garage door. It looks like

> >> >the walls are bolted directly to the slab. My

> >> >question is, wouldn't that make the whole frame out of

> >> >level? How is this normally handled? It is a

> >> >detatched garage.

> >> > Thanks,

> >> > Paul

> > I don't necessarily disagree with the above--a row of cmu or a poured

> > curb is a good thing. But if you are bolting walls directly to the

> > slab, it will have to be framed so that the top plate is level. Not

> > that big a deal for a good framer.

> Thanks to all for your replies. I have heard of using a curb as well as a

> row of cmu to move everything up 8". My neighbor recently had a garage

> build on slab with a row of cmu. I will go over with a level and see if

> there is a pitch to the floor. I guess marson answered what was unclear to

> me. If the floor is pitched without a curb, the walls of the 3 sides would

> need to be adjusted for the pitch. That looks like a headache to me. I plan

> on building this thing myself and I don't consider myself a framer at all,

> just an old man who can follow instructions. So I will not try that. I

> will get the plan approved by the permit department, but I want to have a

> solid idea of exactly what I will do before meeting with them. I probably

> will pour the footing and walls, then the floor so I can get whatever pitch

> they tell me I need. Thanks,

> Paul

Paul, if you are doing it yourself, you are right in not attempting to
build a wall with a 2" taper. Also, the 2", while it sounds drastic,
is marginal for drainage. If your garage is say 24', that is 1/12"
per foot. That's marginal, and you WILL have birdbaths in that. !/4"
per foot is usually recommended for drainage.

I suggest that a easier better way to go would be to install a trench
drain in the center of where you park--the drain can just run to
daylight anywhere convenient. Or you could skip the drainage
altogether. Depends on how much water you expect.

Posted by Rudy on February 15, 2008, 12:44 pm

> I probably will pour the footing and walls, then the floor so I can get

> whatever pitch they tell me I need.

Thanks, Paul

Thats the normal way of doing it Paul. The 1/4" slope is generally for
outside slabs. I found that 1/8" was adequate for the floor inside a
garage, after all, what is going to run down the slope "inside" : a bucket
of water spilled on the floor..some snowmelt off a car parked in a garage in
Michigan ?

R

Posted by Dioclese on February 25, 2008, 8:02 am

>>> Besides what has been said, 2" is a lot of fall. Put a

>>> car in neutral and leave it and you may find it has

>>> rolled out into the street.

>>>

>>> >I have a garage plan that calls for a monolithic slab

>>> >with a 2" pitch toward the garage door. It looks like

>>> >the walls are bolted directly to the slab. My

>>> >question is, wouldn't that make the whole frame out of

>>> >level? How is this normally handled? It is a

>>> >detatched garage.

>>> > Thanks,

>>> > Paul

>> I don't necessarily disagree with the above--a row of cmu or a poured

>> curb is a good thing. But if you are bolting walls directly to the

>> slab, it will have to be framed so that the top plate is level. Not

>> that big a deal for a good framer.

> Thanks to all for your replies. I have heard of using a curb as well as a

> row of cmu to move everything up 8". My neighbor recently had a garage

> build on slab with a row of cmu. I will go over with a level and see if

> there is a pitch to the floor. I guess marson answered what was unclear

> to me. If the floor is pitched without a curb, the walls of the 3 sides

> would need to be adjusted for the pitch. That looks like a headache to

> me. I plan on building this thing myself and I don't consider myself a

> framer at all, just an old man who can follow instructions. So I will not

> try that. I will get the plan approved by the permit department, but I

> want to have a solid idea of exactly what I will do before meeting with

> them. I probably will pour the footing and walls, then the floor so I can

> get whatever pitch they tell me I need. Thanks,

> Paul

Go with the curb. A slanted frame job, exterior veneer would follow
revealing the slant on the side walls on the first run.

--
Dave

Posted by DanG on February 13, 2008, 10:03 pm

Normal pitch for exterior concrete is 1/4" per foot. If a garage
is 20 to 24 feet deep, a 1/4 per foot would be 5 to 6 inches. The
2" fall is less than an 1/8th per foot. OP can run it dead level
or slope the whole floor to a center drain for all I care, but
let's keep the numbers in perspective.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)
dgriff237@7cox.net

> Besides what has been said, 2" is a lot of fall. Put a car in

> neutral and leave it and you may find it has rolled out into the

> street.

>>I have a garage plan that calls for a monolithic slab with a 2"

>>pitch toward the garage door. It looks like the walls are

>>bolted directly to the slab. My question is, wouldn't that

>>make the whole frame out of level? How is this normally handled?

>>It is a detatched garage.

>> Thanks,

>> Paul

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