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Subject Author Date
pitched roof insulation harry palmer 12-31-2008
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Posted by harry palmer on January 1, 2009, 12:20 pm


>> >> Hi all
>> >> we have an old victorian house and we are about to replace the gutters
>> >> and
>> >> insulate the roof. Is there a web site where I can see the different
>> >> approaches? Do we have to ventilate from the soffits up to a ridge
>> >> vent
>> >> or
>> >> is there an alternative? I really don't want to cut a slit in the roof
>> >> right
>> >> now, I would prefer a solution where we could spray something into the
>> >> gaps
>> >> in the rafters and just put up dry wall over it BUT I read somewhere
>> >> that
>> >> you have to have ventilation for moisture. This implies to me that
>> >> when
>> >> we
>> >> get the gutters replaced and they throw away all the old crappy wood
>> >> planks
>> >> its hanging off, that we hang the gutters from aluminum with air slots
>> >> in
>> >> them. These slots vent air into the gap between the insulation and the
>> >> roof.
>> >> up to the ridge and out the ridge vent. I would prefer to A) not have
>> >> the
>> >> ventilation gap at all b) have the ventilation gap and have it go to a
>> >> tube
>> >> at the top that gets vented out of the sides of the house. Please help
>> >> me
>> >> out
>> > Without air circulating up standard shingle roofing on the S side can
>> > go bad in 5-7 years from excessive heat in summer. Is it a heated
>> > attic, or is it open to air and the floor insulated.
>> the house is north south orientated and the attic will be heated as we
>> are
>> converting it into living space. The floor will be bare wood with living
>> accomedation below. We do not intend to insulate the floor as it tops our
>> bedrooms and we don't see the point.- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
> I meant what is existing set up. An air space and R7" foam of a high R
> value near R60 would be best. Foams go from R5-R7.2". How much you
> use is most important, Codes are minimums, not optimal values. Im Zone
> 5, my local code is R35, here R 60 is considered optimal. But since I
> used Fiberglass and it Looses R value when real cold and it settles I
> used R 100 - 110 . To be optimal I bet R 60 is a good objective if you
> live in cold area, what are the beams, 2x6. 2x8, 2x10? shimming down
> should be connsidered for more foam. This is the most important area
> to insulate, do it right. www.energystar.gov is a place to research.

right now there is nothing but a 14' attic 25' wide and 60' long. 2' knee
wall. not sure what the beam size is but will make sure I measure. Thanks
for the advice and I agree R60 would be great BUT I will make the
measurements to see what I can achieve in the space allowed. thanks for your
great help it really has been useful

harry


Posted by tmurf.1@juno.com on January 6, 2009, 8:35 am
> Hi all
> we have an old victorian house and we are about to replace the gutters an=
d
> insulate the roof. Is there a web site where I can see the different
> approaches? Do we have to ventilate from the soffits up to a ridge vent o=
r
> is there an alternative? I really don't want to cut a slit in the roof ri=
ght
> now, I would prefer a solution where we could spray something into the ga=
ps
> in the rafters and just put up dry wall over it BUT I read somewhere that
> you have to have ventilation for moisture. This implies to me that when w=
e
> get the gutters replaced and they throw away all the old crappy wood plan=
ks
> its hanging off, that we hang the gutters from aluminum with air slots in
> them. These slots vent air into the gap between the insulation and the ro=
of.
> up to the ridge and out the ridge vent. I would prefer to A) not have the
> ventilation gap at all b) have the ventilation gap and have it go to a tu=
be
> at the top that gets vented out of the sides of the house. Please help me
> out

check out Certain Teeds website

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