|
Posted by Glenn on October 19, 2006, 9:51 am
How about the KISS method. Build a nice house for yourself and a
separate shop for the truck/whatever?
Have a nice house that someday you will want to sell (just before
you go into the nursing home) and it will sell because it has a
nice shop behind it.
With the shop separate, you won't have the smells of paints,
welder smoke, spoiling grass in the mower etc in the house. Be
nice to have it separate when/if you get something on fire too.
Seems to me that this gives you the best of every option and none
of the problems.
> Ok, now that you guys got me rethinking my metal
> home/shop idea where do I go from here? If what
> everything I'm reading here is true. I need to come up
> with plan b and or C.
> I took a quick look at the monolithic cement dome homes
> that was suggested in a prior post. Does anyone have
> experiance with them?
> The plan was to build something that is cheap to build
> and operate, have shop room and warm and cozy or cool and
> cozy depending on season.
>
> As far as radiant heating the floors, any good links
> about that?
>
>
>
> bill@fiainspectors.com wrote:
> > Whew! I just found this place, you guys crack me up!
> > Sounds likea meal with the inlaws.....
> >
> > I'm in the process of designing this very same idea. My
> > idea is to have a 50x100 di- vided in half with one
> > side being liveing space and the other my shop. At this
> > time condensation is my concern.
> > I have 69 acres of woodland to use as material for a
> > mock post and beam interionr to the living space 3-2,
> > with metal or wood frame [depending] on cost inside
> > walls. Sheet rock with tongue and groove will be the
> > coverings. a second floor open loft would extend across
> > the 50 span appromx 20 ft.
> >
> > My footer will consist of poured columns where the red
> > iron beams fall out and a continuous footer connecting
> > with number 5 rebar.
> >
> > Building in TN, have got estimates for the concrete
> > work, with $5.00 a square foot being high. I will rent
> > a track hoe and dig myself.
> > Prices on erecting the metal building are anywhere from
> > $2.75 to $4.00 a square foot. I really only need them
> > to erect the red iron and maybe the roof panels.
> >
> > Well drilling is $10.00 a foot and then $9.00 a foot
> > for pipe. Bear in mind once you hit rock you don't need
> > anymore pipe.
> > Septic is $3000 for 1000 gallon model installed.
> >
> > All plumbing, electical, inside framing, etc is DIY
> > Everything else I can do myself with a couple
> > helper/laborers to assist.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Bryan wrote:
> > > Sorry I can't help the OP, I don't think. I've
> > > skimmed through the message thread, and all I see is
> > > wanting a cheap commercial building to try to live in
> > > & add to piece by piece. I too am thinking of
> > > building my first house in about a year, and came
> > > across this site and pretty much made up my mind I
> > > want one of these buildings.
> > > http://www.kodiaksteelhomes.com/
> > >
> > > Maybe the OP can look into something like this, it
> > > has an open floor plan, a "dry-in" kit is reasonable
> > > about $60-75k for frame, roof, & siding, the largest
> > > I see is 3800sf.
> > >
> > > Not to Hi-jack the tread, but maybe someone here can
> > > give me a ball park on what it would cost to finish a
> > > 3000sf 2 story steel house, from slab to drywall
> > > [Crestwood 3 on the site]. I all ready have a working
> > > well but would need a new septic system as well. Is
> > > $100K possible, not counting the framing, roofing &
> > > siding. (I live in central OK if geography makes
> > > pricing different). I'd like to do some work myself
> > > to save $, but figure it's have to save $500-1k to
> > > make it worth the extra time it would take me to
> > > finish vs. a professional crew.
> > >
> > > Hope the site might help the OP, or atleast give an
> > > alternate direction to look at, and TIA for any input
> > > on my questions.
> > > Bryan
> > >
> > >
> > > message
> > > > Hi Everyone. I posted a while back about the
> > > > 5000sqft basement and got a lot of good answers. I
> > > > have a few more now But first some background and
> > > > an update.
> > > >
> > > > We're sort of in a blue-sky brainstorming
> > > > out-of-the-box thinking mode now. We have nine
> > > > kids and have decided that traditional houses just
> > > > aren't cutting it for us. The space is used
> > > > inefficiently and the layout is totally wrong for
> > > > our needs.
> > > >
> > > > When I say steel building, I mean a large factory
> > > > made steel building shell with steel paneling on
> > > > the outside and inside with 6" of insulation
> > > > between them. We'll have some windows and doors to
> > > > start, but will probably add more later.
> > > >
> > > > We decided against the basement (yea!). We'll
> > > > probably build some sort of concrete tornado room
> > > > or something instead. Haven't given it much
> > > > thought yet.
> > > >
> > > > The size is now probably 50x80.
> > > >
> > > > The idea is to get into the house as cheaply as
> > > > possible up front, then have a lot of flexability
> > > > and options to partition the space later. By doing
> > > > it this way, we can pay cash for everything and add
> > > > rooms or features as we have the money. No
> > > > mortgage. And we would end up with an industrial
> > > > loft type house with a lot of space and with our
> > > > unusual requirements for a house.
> > > >
> > > > So I have a few new questions.
> > > >
> > > > First, instead of the basement I'm thinking we'll
> > > > opt for an 18-20 foot eve height. The idea is that
> > > > we'll have really high ceilings now, and add a
> > > > free-standing second floor later inside the shell.
> > > > I figure we'll start with some normal 1st floor
> > > > type rooms, but make the ceilings in these rooms
> > > > out of appropriate floor joists for a second floor,
> > > > so like 2x6s or 2x8s, at the normal 8 or 9 feet off
> > > > the ground. Later, I would just climb up there, put
> > > > in a staircase, throw down some plywood, flooring,
> > > > and whatever else to make a second floor. I think
> > > > I'll have to treat these like load bearing walls.
> > > > I can't transfer the weight of the second floor to
> > > > the shell. So they'll have to be free-standing.
> > > > Would I need a footer under the slab under all
> > > > these walls? I'd like to have the freedom to
> > > > rearrange the locations of the new walls after
> > > > we've moved in. So maybe rebar in the slab instead
> > > > of wire mesh or a thicker slab would make the
> > > > footers under the interior walls unnecessary?
> > > >
> > > > What if I made a post and beam type structure,
> > > > footers under the posts?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > I've seen these free-standing steel structures in
> > > > industrial settings. Maybe that would be better?
> > > > What about footers under those? Can you point me
> > > > at someone who sells such things?
> > > >
> > > > The second question is assuming a mostly flat grade
> > > > to start, how much can I expect the footer and slab
> > > > to cost?
> > > >
> > > > And lastly, we're thinking of doing this in a rural
> > > > part of northern illinois or southern wisconsin.
> > > > What can I expect the well and septic to cost,
> > > > planning for a dozen people?
> > > >
> > > > > From steelbuildings.com, I'm estimating $35,000
> > > > > for the shell. So here are the costs so far:
> > > >
> > > > shell - 35,000
> > > > footer/slab - 16,000
> > > > building assembly, 4 guys, a crane, and a week -
> > > > 15,000 (this is a guess)
> > > > windows and doors - 10,000
> > > > well/septic - 10,000 (this is a guess)
> > > > hvac - 10,000 (this is a guess)
> > > > plumbing - 5,000 (this is a guess)
> > > > electrical - 5,000 (this is a guess)
> > > > general contractor crazy enough to do this - 20,000
> > > > (another guess) stuff we didn't think of - 20,000
> > > >
> > > > or 146,000.
> > > >
> > > > Does anyone have any interesting ideas?
> > > >
> > > > brian
| 
Yahoo! 
Google 
Windows Live 
del.icio.us 
digg 
Netscape 
XML Sitemap