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Posted by bent on January 10, 2007, 1:17 pm
You know the regular Armstrong, the ones that fit into the track rather than
on top of it. I am now cutting the non-inset 2'x4' type to fit all my
openings.. I have about 65 tiles total, average about 3'x2' in 4 rooms with
not perfect, but simple boundaries. If I could rabbett or straight bit the
edge, or use a TS is this possible? They are white, and I could spray the
edge if I can make a deent profile. Is this too much hassles/impossible.
I am thinking I COULD pencil along the panel as it sits on top like it was
meant to stay, then tool it to the T-bar, minus a little for play .
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Posted by DT on January 10, 2007, 2:10 pm
>
>You know the regular Armstrong, the ones that fit into the track rather than
>on top of it. I am now cutting the non-inset 2'x4' type to fit all my
>openings.. I have about 65 tiles total, average about 3'x2' in 4 rooms with
>not perfect, but simple boundaries. If I could rabbett or straight bit the
>edge, or use a TS is this possible? They are white, and I could spray the
>edge if I can make a deent profile. Is this too much hassles/impossible.
>I am thinking I COULD pencil along the panel as it sits on top like it was
>meant to stay, then tool it to the T-bar, minus a little for play .
>
I've never done this to ceiling tiles, but I bet a router would chew up on the
edges. Couple of cuts with a table saw should do it. You can probably just cut
the face the proper depth, and then slice off the waste from the side with a
razor knife. In fact, depending on how tough these particular ones are, you
might be able to just cut everything with a knife. Draw your line, use a
straight edge and cut part way through with the knife on the face, then part
off the waste from the side. Make up a block the correct depth so you can set
your tile on a table, then use the block to hold the knife at the right height
to slice the sides.
--
Dennis
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Posted by Matt Whiting on January 10, 2007, 5:45 pm
bent wrote:
> You know the regular Armstrong, the ones that fit into the track rather than
> on top of it. I am now cutting the non-inset 2'x4' type to fit all my
> openings.. I have about 65 tiles total, average about 3'x2' in 4 rooms with
> not perfect, but simple boundaries. If I could rabbett or straight bit the
> edge, or use a TS is this possible? They are white, and I could spray the
> edge if I can make a deent profile. Is this too much hassles/impossible.
> I am thinking I COULD pencil along the panel as it sits on top like it was
> meant to stay, then tool it to the T-bar, minus a little for play .
I did my basement last year with this style panel and just cut the
rabbitt by hand with a utility knife. Use a new blade and a
straight-edge to cut the finished side of the panel (set the blade depth
so you don't cut too deep) and then just lay the panel on a flat
surface, lay the knife on the same surface and you may find, as I did
with my knife, that the height of the blade is almost exactly the same
as the factory "ledges" on the panels. Just slide it along the edge a
couple of times until you reach the depth that intersects with your
first cut and you are done.
It is a little time consuming, but it makes a nice clean cut. I think a
saw of any kind would likely make a mess of the edge and would throw
dust everywhere so you'd want to do this outside.
Matt
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Posted by bent on January 10, 2007, 6:35 pm
What about overcutting either the depth or the sides with the blade, will
you notice any, iow, do you have to try to be perfect any more than just
efficient? Did you paint them after, and did the paint match, or did you
paint it all? Latex?. I don't think the fact that everything isn't square
is much of an argument against doing this, but what about trying to get the
layout just right. I can see this as the biggest concern/timeconsumer. Did
you use a pencil, or measurements? What about keeping the amount resting
over the T-track at a minimum, or centering it, keeping it even? How did
that go, and what were the results. Is there a best, std., of factory gap
(play) - you know extra from the inside edge to cut off. Don't know if I'll
have any chance to ask anyone else who's done this. Wha, wha, waaa. Thx.
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Posted by Matt Whiting on January 10, 2007, 7:20 pm
bent wrote:
> What about overcutting either the depth or the sides with the blade, will
> you notice any, iow, do you have to try to be perfect any more than just
> efficient? Did you paint them after, and did the paint match, or did you
> paint it all? Latex?. I don't think the fact that everything isn't square
> is much of an argument against doing this, but what about trying to get the
> layout just right. I can see this as the biggest concern/timeconsumer. Did
> you use a pencil, or measurements? What about keeping the amount resting
> over the T-track at a minimum, or centering it, keeping it even? How did
> that go, and what were the results. Is there a best, std., of factory gap
> (play) - you know extra from the inside edge to cut off. Don't know if I'll
> have any chance to ask anyone else who's done this. Wha, wha, waaa. Thx.
As long as you don't overcut so far as to weaken the "ledge" that you
want to hold up the edge of the panel, there is no need for real precision.
I didn't paint mine as the were almost all against an outside wall and
thus not noticeable. And the one edge that was visible wasn't
noticeable enough to bother with paint. I think matching the paint
color might be tricky and a botched paint job would look worse than the
light gray panel material.
I basically measured the width with my tape and subtracted 1/8" or so.
That is about how much play the factory panels had when in place so I
just mimiced them.
Matt
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