Home Page link

wall construction-

Building Construction - Building Construction Industry Discussions. 

Page 2 of 2       << first < 1 2 Bookmark this page:  YahooMyWeb Yahoo!  Google Google  Windows Live Favorites Windows Live  del.icio.us del.icio.us  digg digg  Add to Netscape Netscape
Subject Author Date
wall construction- Avasa 04-11-2008
If you were  Registered and logged in, you could reply and use other advanced thread options
Posted by GHooper on April 15, 2008, 5:27 pm
Great idea, but better idea
would be siding, firring, 2" rigid foam, water/air barrier, 7/16" osb (air
sealed at seams and ends), 2x4 with closed cell foam, glued drywall to studs
and plates.

Siding offers rain,uv,mechanical protection but is not water proof. If your
using vinyl for siding, you dont need the firring.
2" of rigid foam is R-20 and the kicker is there wont be any thermal
bridging on the studs.
(keep the joints tight or even better use 2 layers 1" stagger the seams)
2" of foam at R-20, would also keep the dew point exterior of the water/air
barrier
7/16" osb I have nothing against it...
2x4, well your much better off loosing 2" on the studs and gaining it in the
insulation....
(you still get to use windows and doors with 2x6 Jambs !)
4" dence pack cellulose is great for air sealing and offers a high R but the
best you can get if you can afford it is closed cell foam,
hell there is nothing better.
Gluing the rock to the studs, top and bottom plates helps prevent air
infiltration.

Pay special attention to air infiltration, keep that to a minimum, but
always always supply ventialtion,
choose an HRV or an ERV at the least get exaust fan on a timer.

Glenn

> can i get some input on what layers to use on a new (eco-ish)
> construction in cold canada? i am thinking of (from outside to inside)
> siding, firring, 1"rigid foam, 7/16"osb, 2x6 with white fibreglass
> insulation, reflective vapor barrier, firring, drywall.
> do i need typar outside?
>
> also how common is it for mice to eat through PEX pipe? common enough
> that i should go for copper?



Posted by hogheavenfarm on April 18, 2008, 6:08 am
Good idea thinking it through ahead of time. 2" rigid foam outside
makes window and door installation more difficult. Firring out the
flanges just completes a convective path for heat loss, and you can't
nail the flanges to the foam! We use 5/8" R-5 rigid here as an add on
protection, but we have to fir out the windows and doors.
On the inside, have you considered Icynene? The performance is far
superior to glass. A near pefect seal. It is best suited for new
construction. It's also a very green product. There are other generic
brands out there as well. We build dozens of Energy Star houses and a
few LEED houses, all of which specify Icynene-type foam insulation,
although the LEED's people seem to prefer fiberglass in the roof part,
due to moisture concerns.

Page 2 of 2       << first < 1 2
Similar ThreadsPosted
Re: wall construction- April 12, 2008, 12:55 am
Best wall construction to stop a truck. March 5, 2007, 12:00 pm
Exterior Masonry Wall Construction September 19, 2007, 6:58 am
double wall house construction details September 10, 2006, 5:22 pm
Wall Height August 20, 2006, 11:23 am
Retaining Wall March 16, 2007, 5:29 am
Wall Decor April 29, 2008, 5:19 am
need help with retaining wall project!! September 19, 2006, 7:18 pm
Shear wall question October 12, 2006, 12:49 am
Is it a load-bearing wall? April 9, 2007, 11:40 am

Contact Us | Privacy Policy

XML SitemapXML Sitemap