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what is the best window caulk? sparky 10-22-2006
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Posted by sparky on October 22, 2006, 10:52 am
I have had to caulk windows every year on my 4 year old house. The
window are Vinyl Milgards and the trim is wood like composite. The
first year I used a Dow elastomeric 50 year caulk, then the
polyurethane but it was not a good brand. Then I used Sidewinder.

Maybe it is my technique or maybe I should call my painter buddy who
just gor devorced.................
Anyone want to comment? What about the paintable exterior silicon? Oh
the gaps are opening up on the window edge not the trim.


Posted by RicodJour on October 22, 2006, 11:40 am
sparky wrote:
> I have had to caulk windows every year on my 4 year old house. The
> window are Vinyl Milgards and the trim is wood like composite. The
> first year I used a Dow elastomeric 50 year caulk, then the
> polyurethane but it was not a good brand. Then I used Sidewinder.
>
> Maybe it is my technique or maybe I should call my painter buddy who
> just gor devorced.................
> Anyone want to comment? What about the paintable exterior silicon? Oh
> the gaps are opening up on the window edge not the trim.

Remove the old caulk, cut back as necessary. Meticulously clean the
area to be caulked, final step is an alcohol wipe down. Use foam
backer rod to control the caulk depth.

Google this newsgroup and alt.home.repair - this question comes up
frequently.

R


Posted by SteveF on October 22, 2006, 8:23 pm

>I have had to caulk windows every year on my 4 year old house. The
> window are Vinyl Milgards and the trim is wood like composite. The
> first year I used a Dow elastomeric 50 year caulk, then the
> polyurethane but it was not a good brand. Then I used Sidewinder.
>
> Maybe it is my technique or maybe I should call my painter buddy who
> just gor devorced.................
> Anyone want to comment? What about the paintable exterior silicon? Oh
> the gaps are opening up on the window edge not the trim.
>

I like PL Polyurethane if it has to be painted or GE Silicone II if not.
The downside to the PL is that it needs to cure for two weeks before
painting.

The biggest problem with caulking is making sure there is a big enough gap
for the caulk. If a given caulk can flex 50% then caulking an 1/8" gap will
leave enough caulk to expand to 3/16" (1/16" is 50% of 1/8"). If the pieces
are tight together, then there is just a thread of caulk so when the pieces
move by 1/16" it tears the caulk loose.

Steve.



Posted by Jonny on October 22, 2006, 10:29 pm
>I have had to caulk windows every year on my 4 year old house. The
> window are Vinyl Milgards and the trim is wood like composite. The
> first year I used a Dow elastomeric 50 year caulk, then the
> polyurethane but it was not a good brand. Then I used Sidewinder.
>
> Maybe it is my technique or maybe I should call my painter buddy who
> just gor devorced.................
> Anyone want to comment? What about the paintable exterior silicon? Oh
> the gaps are opening up on the window edge not the trim.
>

I used the same ASTM required by Hardie for caulking their siding joints.
Its a butyl based paintable caulking. Used around the window aluminum
frame. The glass itself does not use caulking in the sense you portrayed,
if that's your meaning.
--
Jonny



Posted by sparky on October 23, 2006, 11:56 pm
Thanks Guy's
I will think about what you all said for awhile. Jonny it is the vinyl
of the milgard window that is breaking free of the composite trim. And
Steve you are right it is a small gap. What is the make of the caulk
you use for the Hardie?

-Sparky


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