wiring to an out building (shop)

Posted by Mike on September 22, 2006, 6:57 pm

> As I said, lay seperate conduit. I wouldn't have anything but plastic.

Go metal for the cat5 especially if running parallel to the electrical.

Posted by Jonny on September 22, 2006, 7:38 pm

>> As I said, lay seperate conduit. I wouldn't have anything but plastic.

> Go metal for the cat5 especially if running parallel to the electrical.

True if unshielded, doesn't matter if not and the shield is grounded
properly.
--
Jonny

Posted by Glenn on September 22, 2006, 7:48 pm

I see your thinking and maybe your are right but I have my 200A in
the 2" and the phone in the 1" and the cable in the other 1" all
in the same trench. been that way for at least the last 20 years
and so far have never had any interference at all. And they are
plastic. All lines come down the same power pole, travel 100 ft
underground and rise at the end of my house. Each utility
supplied and pulled their own wire in each conduct.

>> As I said, lay seperate conduit. I wouldn't have
>> anything but plastic.

> Go metal for the cat5 especially if running parallel to
> the electrical.

Posted by carolyn on September 22, 2006, 6:20 am

J.C. wrote:

>>I am thinking of setting up a shop in an outbuilding, and want to put a
>> panel in the outbuilding. Currently there is a single line running a
>> couple of outlets and a light in the building. For the shop, I want a
>> 240v
>> for my table saw, and then 120v outlets for the drill press, and assorted
>> other tools, radiant heater, and dust collection system. I will be
>> replacing the house's 100amp panel with a 200amp, and will reinstall the
>> 100amp in the out building. What gauge wire do I need to run between the
>> two panels? I will be putting it in a trench with a metal conduit. I am
>> guessing that a 2' deep conduit should be sufficient. Does that sound
>> about right?
>> Thanks, Carolyn
>> --
>> Carolyn Marenger

>
> It's been years since I did this, and my memory is going fast, but it
> seems I was told NOT to put the line in conduit but to use UF line
> instead. I'm pretty sure we just used some 12 gage.

I like the idea of a metal conduit for three reasons. First is, if someone
comes along with a hand shovel, they should be protected from cutting the
wire for a few swings of the blade. Second is if there is a problem at
some point, I can just pull the wire through again, no re-trenching needed.
Third is providing RF shielding so I can also run a phone line and an
ethernet line. to the shop.

I do remember reading somewhere that it is possible to just lay wire without
a conduit, subject to depths and so forth...

Thanks, Carolyn
--
Carolyn Marenger

Posted by Jonny on September 20, 2006, 8:47 am

>I am thinking of setting up a shop in an outbuilding, and want to put a
> panel in the outbuilding. Currently there is a single line running a
> couple of outlets and a light in the building. For the shop, I want a
> 240v
> for my table saw, and then 120v outlets for the drill press, and assorted
> other tools, radiant heater, and dust collection system. I will be
> replacing the house's 100amp panel with a 200amp, and will reinstall the
> 100amp in the out building. What gauge wire do I need to run between the
> two panels? I will be putting it in a trench with a metal conduit. I am
> guessing that a 2' deep conduit should be sufficient. Does that sound
> about right?
> Thanks, Carolyn
> --
> Carolyn Marenger

Check your local municipality for depth of the trench requirement. If not
applicable, and if you have rock/gravel consistency mostly in the soil, lack
of settling, you'll probably be okay at 2 feet depth. I would bottom and
top the conduit with a couple inches of sand as a buffer from rocks, before
burying. Heavy equipment, trucks and automobiles driving over this trench
may compact excessively if in a shallow trench at 2 feet if the soil is
generally soft. Run deeper in that case. Some municipalities in my region
require 6 feet in depth as an example.

You never indicated a circuit breaker to feed from the 200 amp panel to the
100 amp panel, or, pulling both phases from the 200 amp panel bus directly
(not advised).

Local building code should provide the information you seek on wire gauge
(AWG). The wire material (aluminum or copper) and distance you route this
wire between the panel and termination, determines the wire gauge.

Most local municipalities base their electrical code upon the NEC. The
applicable year of NEC publication that pertains depends on the legislation
requirement.
http://www.answers.com/topic/national-electrical-code
http://www.stealth316.com/2-wire-resistance.htm
The NEC was flaky on what the requirement is for the grounding conductor
between two panels when there is a large distance separation. Bear in mind
you're running both phases, not just one phase between the two panels.
http://www.windsun.com/PDF/cc65.pdf#search=%22National%20Electrical%20Code%20NEC%20%22wire%20gauge%22%22
Hire a licensed electrician.
If you live in rural area, talk to your neighbors and see how they did
things as well. You may see mistakes they made so you can avoid them. A
standard trencher may work if the soil is soft, and lacks any substantial
rocks. Otherwise, use a drivable rock saw. Looks like a small tractor with
a big wheel with cutting teeth/spikes on the back. Also check where your
plumbing and current electrical lines are buried before digging.
--
Jonny

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wiring to an out building (shop) - Page 2