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11 year old Goodman - should I repair or replace?

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11 year old Goodman - should I repair or replace? Myhvacisdead 08-18-2006
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Posted by =?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= on August 20, 2006, 9:10 pm
aka-SBM posted for all of us...
I don't top post - see either inline or at bottom.

> Im still in awe of how stupid one person can be, giving advice that is so
> damn wrong, and no one has beat the hell out of em yet...
>
Believe me, if I could I would... really.
--
Tekkie

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Posted by Myhvacisdead on August 26, 2006, 8:06 am
Well,
I'm happy to report that my a/c has been fixed.
The 2nd HVAC place sent out a top-notch tech who found the problem and
put in a workaround to get the unit up and running =-= all in a bit
over 1 hour.
The short was caused by the high-voltage and 24v power lines in the
outside compressor being fused together. The covering on the wires had
melted and the metal was touching.

Thank You all for feedback!


Posted by Bubba on August 19, 2006, 8:03 am
wrote:

>Hello,
>
>I have a 11 year old Goodman gas furnace (model gmp125-5) with a 3 ton
>central air unit (southern Pennsylvania).
>The a/c quit working a few weeks ago. I had a serviceman come out and
>he said the control board had burn spots on it. He put in a new
>control board, turned on the system, it ran for about 1 minute and then
>burnt up the replacement board.
>I was told that the thermostat (basic round dial one) could be causing
>a short so I put in a digital programmable thermostat. They put in a
>second control board. The tech was going to turn on the a/c again and
>I said let's just turn the blower fan from auto to on first and see how
>that works. We did that and the control board burnt out again after
>1/2 minute or so. He tested the wires from the thermostat to the
>control board and there was no short in them.
>
>The control boards are $170 each and my repair bill so far is close to
>$500. I've called several hvac shops in the area and the general
>concensus is that troubleshooting a short in the system could be quite
>costly and considering the system is 11 years old, it would be better
>to replace it.
>Thoughts/Comments?
>
>My second question is this: How much should it cost (ballpark) for a
>new natural gas furnace and central air system? My house is ~2600 sq
>ft, 2 floors. I had an Amana supplier come out and do a engineering
>analysis. She said the 3 ton a/c unit is too small for my house and
>that I should have a 4 ton unit.
>She gave me quotes on new systems and I'm in shock at the price quotes,
>which range from $6500 for a system with the cheapest parts (13 seer
>a/c with 5 yr compressor warranty, 80% gas furnace) all the way to
>$11,000 for a 16 seer a/c with lifetime compressor/10 yr parts and a
>96% gas furnace with variable speed blower and lifetime heat exchanger.
>
>I was hoping I could get a efficient system for $5000-$6000 installed.
>Are the high-efficiency furnace and a/c units really that much more
>expensive and/or more involved to install - or is this place charging a
>premium to install the high-end components?
>
>Thanks ahead of time for any guidance you can offer!!!

You have just gotten a lot of bad circuit boards. Goodman put out a
huge batch of bad boards. Have your seemingly highly trained
professional technician keep replacing boards. When the repair bill
gets up to $11,000 then you can tell him to stop and go ahead and put
in that new super- duper system. After all, it just wouldnt be
practical to do more than $11,000 in repairs if you can get a new
system for that amount.
Dont forget to install a new digital programmable thermostat. Its
almost always the thermostat.
I do hope you asked your Amana chick if she was indeed an engineer?
After all, you cant do an engineering analysis unless you are
"board-certified". I think she is wrong about the 4 ton system. Im
sure you need a 5 ton system. Bigger is always better and the bigger
systems last longer.
Bubba

Posted by Myhvacisdead on August 19, 2006, 8:19 am
Thank you all for your comments.
The owner of the shop that's been working on my system recommended I
get an electrician to diagnose the short.
I called another shop that has an electrician on staff but they thought
I'd be better off with a HVAC person they have on staff who has a good
electrical troubleshooting background. They're sending him on
Thursday. If he can fix it, wonderful. If he can't, they say I don't
have to pay for the call.


Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 19, 2006, 9:00 am
Please suggest that he pull the blower motor out of the lower cabinet.
Isolate it, and check for shorts to ground. That's a very likely
cause.

And as Geo Jr and I both suggested, a fuse or two installed in the
right places are cheaper than $170 boards.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

Thank you all for your comments.
The owner of the shop that's been working on my system recommended I
get an electrician to diagnose the short.
I called another shop that has an electrician on staff but they
thought
I'd be better off with a HVAC person they have on staff who has a
good
electrical troubleshooting background. They're sending him on
Thursday. If he can fix it, wonderful. If he can't, they say I don't
have to pay for the call.



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