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Posted by Bob_Loblaw on August 19, 2006, 9:08 pm
> Please suggest that he pull the blower motor out of the lower cabinet.
> Isolate it, and check for shorts to ground.
Why do you have to remove the blower from the cabinet?
Honestly Stormy, let others answer service questions.
You don't have enough time in the saddle.
--
Respectfully, Bob
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Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 19, 2006, 9:23 pm
Well, you really don't. But it only takes a couple moments to do so.
--
Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.
> Please suggest that he pull the blower motor out of the lower
cabinet.
> Isolate it, and check for shorts to ground.
Why do you have to remove the blower from the cabinet?
Honestly Stormy, let others answer service questions.
You don't have enough time in the saddle.
--
Respectfully, Bob
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Posted by Bubba on August 19, 2006, 10:21 pm
On Sun, 20 Aug 2006 01:08:46 GMT, "Bob_Loblaw"
>
>
>
>
>
>> Please suggest that he pull the blower motor out of the lower cabinet.
>> Isolate it, and check for shorts to ground.
>
>
>Why do you have to remove the blower from the cabinet?
>Honestly Stormy, let others answer service questions.
>You don't have enough time in the saddle.
Because thats the only way Stormy can get to the thermostat.
Bubba
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Posted by Murdentech on August 19, 2006, 9:08 am
> Thank you all for your comments.
> The owner of the shop that's been working on my system recommended I
> get an electrician to diagnose the short.
He ought to also refund your money. Period. If he doesn't have a competent
tech who can troubleshoot the problem, he doesn't need to be in the service
business. Further, if the tech fried the new board, he should have replaced
it at his own cost. If the new board was bad, it would have been under
warranty and wouldn't have cost him anything... sounds like you got a tech
who doesn't know a screwdriver from a capacitor lead.
Anytime an HVAC contractor sends you to someone else, that's his way of
saying, "We don't know what the F**K we are doing". At least he did you the
favor of sending you else where before conning you out of even more money.
> I called another shop that has an electrician on staff but they thought
> I'd be better off with a HVAC person they have on staff who has a good
> electrical troubleshooting background. They're sending him on
> Thursday. If he can fix it, wonderful. If he can't, they say I don't
> have to pay for the call.
>
That is good customer service even before they arrive. I am sure they will
either fix the problem or make proper recommendations for a new system. They
will also be grateful for all your future referrals to them.
If you do end up replacing the furnace, go with Goodman and get a 95%
efficient furnace. You might consider a 14 SEER heat pump and get yourself a
high efficiency dual fuel system... a wise choice for southern Penn.
Electric rates are reasonable and if you plan to stay in the house for at
least five years, you will save quite a bit on energy both in heating and
cooling season. I expect you could get a 3 or 3.5 ton heat pump, 95%, 90k or
110k btu furnace installed with all the proper controls, etc. for around
$7000 if you find an honest, competent company to bid the job. The system
will also qualify for federal tax credit.
Goodman has redesigned their systems and have done a good job of it. It is
reasonably priced equipment with a good warranty. www.goodmanmfg.com
They also make Amana, same quality with a little higher price tag.... as for
your 11 year old Janitrol, we'll leave that quality issue alone.
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Posted by She-Hate-Me on August 19, 2006, 11:40 am
> ... sounds like you got a tech who doesn't know a screwdriver from a
> capacitor lead.
Was the mormun there?
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