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$760 Circuit Board or new system ?

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$760 Circuit Board or new system ? Jim 11-10-2007
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Posted by Zyp on November 12, 2007, 12:15 pm
HVAC Guy wrote:
> Bubba wrote:
>
>>>> you are most likely burning an extra $20 a month each and
>>>> every month which amounts to $240 a year you just pissed away.
>>>
>>> I dispute your $20 / month.
>>
>> Dispute all you want. In case you havent noticed, natural gas
>> does nothing but go up and up each winter. Right now its in
>> the "ridiculous" price range.
>
> According to this:
>
> http://www.energyideas.org/default.cfm?o=h,g,ds&c=z,z,4407
>
> A furnace pilot light uses about 21 cf per day - and this number was
> arrived at from 2 different sources.
>
> I'm paying about 1.05 cents per cf for my NG (33.43 cents per cubic
> meter, including the gas itself and a few other costs like
> transportation and storage).
>
> So I'm paying 22 cents per day to run my pilot light. The average
> month has 30.4 days, so I'm paying $6.70 per month to run my pilot
> light.
>
> This page:
>
>
http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/publications/infosource/pub/home/Heating_With_Gas_Section6.cfm
>
> Says that the difference between a standing pilot light furnace (60%
> AFUE) and one with an electronic ignition can be as little as 2% more
> efficient (62 - 67% AFUE). The fact that it also has a vent damper
> should also be noted - the damper is no doubt preventing interior heat
> loss through the flue when the furnace isin't running.
>
>>> the heat put out by the pilot is (mostly) captured within your
>>> house anyways, and during the heating season heat (from all
>>> sources) is desired.
>>
>> ??? WTF! Since when does a pilot flame go into your house?
>
> It's a flame burning *in your house*, no differently than the burners
> which are also flames burning *in your house*.
>
> If your furnace is capturing heat from your burners, when why can't it
> capture the heat from your pilot as well? Or is that a strange
> concept for you?
>
> Note the following (quoted from the first link I posted above):
>
> "Another important point is that the heat from the pilot is
> usually not all lost during the heating season. In most
> stoves and furnaces, much of the heat from the pilot finds
> its way into the building."
>
> Also note that your argument about the pilot being wasted heat doesn't
> apply when the burners are actually on (because the pilot is adding
> it's own paltry amount of heat to the burner output). The colder it
> gets outside, the more often the furnace burners are on (the duty
> cycle of the furnace increases) and the percentage of time that only
> the pilot light is on goes down.
>
>> The colder it is outside and the more heat you apply inside
>> increases the suction of that flue.
>
> So when only the pilot is on, you wouldn't get much heat, which means
> you wouldn't get much suction, which means more of the heat from the
> pilot would remain in the furnace - keeping some localized part of the
> heat exchanger warm in between calls for heat.
>
>> Now, tell me once again how well and cheap that 30 yr old
>> furnace of yours is doing.
>
> The efficiency of the furnace is not a function of whether or not I
> have a standing pilot light or electronic ignition. The MUCH bigger
> efficiencies come from having more efficient heat exchangers, or
> motorized vent dampers, or scavanging heat from the exhaust to heat
> the combustion intake air.

I think you missed the point.

Energy conservation is not only about saving money. It's about saving fuel.
With less and less pilots burning, [BTW: the heat the pilot generates goes
up the flue stack. Since the blower isn't running - the heat is lost.]
Although you only see a 2% savings [by your recent investigation] the
savings is so some "other" person can use the fuel. But I guess you're
selfisness wins out.

Flue dampers are an interesting lot. They save on water heaters better than
forced air furnaces. The chimney flue of a water heater runs right up the
middle of the storage [warm water] and is consistantly venting to the
outdoors. Heat rises, remember your high school education.

In 1978 when intermittent ignition came about, the savings was in fuel
rather than monetary. And now all of the conservation efforts are attempts
to conserve on fuel so others will have the convienece.

I'm glad that you are an EE engineer [at least that's the perception.] So
why not do what your trained for and leave the stuff you're not trained for
to others?

How would you feel if everyone did your job, [not that I could] but what
if.? You wouldn't mind. And what if I inlisted your FREE help. You
wouldn't mind, would ya? Ofcourse not, because you're a generous type.
Which is exampled by your display of conservation of fuel for others to
purchase by utilizing a 1970's heating appliance.

--
Zyp



Posted by Bubba on November 12, 2007, 6:09 pm

>Bubba wrote:
>
>> >> you are most likely burning an extra $20 a month each and
>> >> every month which amounts to $240 a year you just pissed away.
>> >
>> > I dispute your $20 / month.
>>
>> Dispute all you want. In case you havent noticed, natural gas
>> does nothing but go up and up each winter. Right now its in
>> the "ridiculous" price range.
>
>According to this:
>
>http://www.energyideas.org/default.cfm?o=h,g,ds&c=z,z,4407
>
>A furnace pilot light uses about 21 cf per day - and this number was
>arrived at from 2 different sources.
>
>I'm paying about 1.05 cents per cf for my NG (33.43 cents per cubic
>meter, including the gas itself and a few other costs like
>transportation and storage).
>
>So I'm paying 22 cents per day to run my pilot light. The average
>month has 30.4 days, so I'm paying $6.70 per month to run my pilot
>light.
>
>This page:
>
>http://oee.nrcan.gc.ca/publications/infosource/pub/home/Heating_With_Gas_Section6.cfm
>
>Says that the difference between a standing pilot light furnace (60%
>AFUE) and one with an electronic ignition can be as little as 2% more
>efficient (62 - 67% AFUE). The fact that it also has a vent damper
>should also be noted - the damper is no doubt preventing interior heat
>loss through the flue when the furnace isin't running.
>
>> > the heat put out by the pilot is (mostly) captured within your
>> > house anyways, and during the heating season heat (from all
>> > sources) is desired.
>>
>> ??? WTF! Since when does a pilot flame go into your house?
>
>It's a flame burning *in your house*, no differently than the burners
>which are also flames burning *in your house*.
>
>If your furnace is capturing heat from your burners, when why can't it
>capture the heat from your pilot as well? Or is that a strange
>concept for you?

And again, as you pointed out on that 60% eff furnace, you are only
capturing about 60% of that but since the blower isnt running the heat
cant be "scrubbed" from the heat exchanger THUS goes right on up and
out the chimney. Furnaces are also lined with insulation around the
inside of the furnace further preventing heat from radiating out into
the home.
>
>Note the following (quoted from the first link I posted above):
>
> "Another important point is that the heat from the pilot is
> usually not all lost during the heating season. In most
> stoves and furnaces, much of the heat from the pilot finds
> its way into the building."
>
Again, remember this isnt a steel or cast-iron wood stove sittiing out
in the middle of your living room able to radiate any heat into the
living space.

>Also note that your argument about the pilot being wasted heat doesn't
>apply when the burners are actually on (because the pilot is adding
>it's own paltry amount of heat to the burner output). The colder it
>gets outside, the more often the furnace burners are on (the duty
>cycle of the furnace increases) and the percentage of time that only
>the pilot light is on goes down.
>
>> The colder it is outside and the more heat you apply inside
>> increases the suction of that flue.
>
>So when only the pilot is on, you wouldn't get much heat, which means
>you wouldn't get much suction, which means more of the heat from the
>pilot would remain in the furnace - keeping some localized part of the
>heat exchanger warm in between calls for heat.

and again, having the EE brain of yours and thinking in labratory
terms you miss the real life concept.
The pilot and burners are on. The furnace heats up and blows the heat
into the living space. The burners shuts off when the temp is
satisfied and in a min or two the blower goes off. Now you have a warm
heat exchanger, a pilot running and a nice warm chimney. Say HELLO to
your nice new vacuum cleaner sitting atop your home.
>
>> Now, tell me once again how well and cheap that 30 yr old
>> furnace of yours is doing.
>
>The efficiency of the furnace is not a function of whether or not I
>have a standing pilot light or electronic ignition. The MUCH bigger
>efficiencies come from having more efficient heat exchangers, or
>motorized vent dampers, or scavanging heat from the exhaust to heat
>the combustion intake air.

I think you just like to argue. You can read and type all the articles
you want. Your furnace SUCKS and it SUCKS real well..............right
up the chimney. Keep living in the past. Hang onto those old ideas and
old equipment. I'll move on with the times and use efficient
equipment.
$6.70 a month for your pilot........hehehe. I think you should do your
own experiment and try that. Turn off everything except one pilot. At
the end of the month, tell me what your bill was. Im sure it will be
$6.70 :-P
Bubba

Posted by Zyp on November 11, 2007, 3:11 pm
HVAC Guy wrote:
> Moe Jones wrote:
>
>> That's a hard call to make but a 13 year old furnace that has a
>> standing pilot may be on it's last leg.
>
> A 13 year-old furnace on it's "last leg" ???
>
> Are you kidding?
>
> Is the lifetime of furnaces declining since the 1970's?
>
> I guess I'll keep my perfectly-good-and-working furnace (circa 1976) a
> little longer then.
>
> And what does a standing pilot have to do with it? Could it be that
> you, like all those employed in the hvac field, strongly desire all
> home owners to move to more-expensive-to-repair furnaces that will
> garantee you a more steady service income?
>
> From a home-owner POV, a standing pilot light is far more reliable and
> has a lower total ownership cost vs electronic ignition.

Who are you kidding? I've been in this crappy trade for 36 years. Those
older standing pilot furnaces needed tons of service every year!
Replacement thermocouples, rusting iron heat exchangers, crappy belts,
plugged burners, man those were the days.

Today, direct drive, alumimum/ steel heat exchangers HSI igntion [fewer
spiders and flies in pilots] dual seat gas valves, inshot burners, all make
maintenance a thing of the past. As long as the equipment is installed
properly, and serviced periodically, the homeowner is reaping a huge
benefit. Not only in less down time, less maintenance cost, less often
repairs costs, but extended service life as well.!

Today's furnace's [of a simular calibar] cost less. When you look at the
track home [economy] furance line, you will see the pricing has stayed about
the same though out the last few decades. Only those applicances with more
features cost considerably more, and rightfully so. More engineering,
tooling, and components raise the price of the more efficient appliances.
HVAC is probably one of the only things that acutally is a good buy today!
Price stability, [exept for the last year with increases in steel and copper
prices, not to mention the cost of the newer refrigerant] trade competition,
and [new stupid hungry contractors] have kept the price down.

--
Zyp



Posted by HVAC Guy on November 11, 2007, 5:31 pm
Zyp wrote:

> Who are you kidding? I've been in this crappy trade for 36 years.
> Those older standing pilot furnaces needed tons of service every
> year!
> Replacement thermocouples, rusting iron heat exchangers, crappy
> belts, plugged burners, man those were the days.

Not only do I have an old furnace (circa 1976) in my house, I also
have a large double unit (8 burners, circa 1981) at my office (for the
second floor) and a smaller (but newer?) unit for the first floor
(electronic ignition). That newer furnace (Whisper heat?) was a pain
in the ass because the electronic ignition started to act up last
winter and I took the electronic control module apart and resoldered
the cold joint that developed at the ignition coil.

In the combined 10 years I've owned and operated these 3 furnaces,
I've never called for a tech to service them, but the only one that
had problems was the one with electronic ignition.

I've never had a problem with thermocouples. Yes, the heat exchangers
are rusty, but I vacuum them out along with the burners every few
years.

Crappy belts? Are you saying that belts used in 90+ furnaces are
somehow different? In my experience, belts last a long time, even
when I run the fan almost continuously for the 3 peak summer months.

If I were installing these furnaces back when they were new, I would
have fabricated an exhaust gas and combustion intake heat exchanger to
improve the efficiency of the units. That could have been done with
all those units installed 20, 30 years ago to improve efficiency if
they wanted to do that.

The idea of electronic ignition does not thrill me. Too much
technology (and too expensive) given the savings.

The idea of a closed (sealed) combustion intake side (with scavaging
heat from the exhaust side) does appeal to me - but that is basically
"plumbing" and could have been done years ago with add-ons outside the
furnace itself.

Something else I'd do is create a ducted, gated path around my AC evap
coil so in the winter the air can flow around the coils instead of
being forced through them.

Beyond a more efficient heat exchanger (which I presume they are today
vs 20 or 30 years ago) I would think they'd be making them out of
stainless steel by now (are they?). I would also think they would
have variable gas valves (variable BTU output, instead of full-on or
full-off) or staged valves. Do they have this today?

What about electronically commutated motors? How many furnaces have
those today? I would replace my motors with those if they were
available - at a reasonable price.

But you know what would really motivate me to replace my furnaces
today?

Give me a furnace where the motor also runs on natural gas so I still
have heat if there's a power failure.

I'd also like to see someone come out with a heat exchanger that has
water sprayed onto it as a way to humidify the air (and take even more
heat away from the exchanger and put it in the house). Does anyone do
that?

Posted by Noon-Air on November 11, 2007, 6:50 pm

> Zyp wrote:
>
>> Who are you kidding? I've been in this crappy trade for 36 years.
>> Those older standing pilot furnaces needed tons of service every
>> year!
>> Replacement thermocouples, rusting iron heat exchangers, crappy
>> belts, plugged burners, man those were the days.
>
> Not only do I have an old furnace (circa 1976) in my house, I also
> have a large double unit (8 burners, circa 1981) at my office (for the
> second floor) and a smaller (but newer?) unit for the first floor
> (electronic ignition). That newer furnace (Whisper heat?) was a pain
> in the ass because the electronic ignition started to act up last
> winter and I took the electronic control module apart and resoldered
> the cold joint that developed at the ignition coil.
>
> In the combined 10 years I've owned and operated these 3 furnaces,
> I've never called for a tech to service them, but the only one that
> had problems was the one with electronic ignition.
>
> I've never had a problem with thermocouples. Yes, the heat exchangers
> are rusty, but I vacuum them out along with the burners every few
> years.
>
> Crappy belts? Are you saying that belts used in 90+ furnaces are
> somehow different? In my experience, belts last a long time, even
> when I run the fan almost continuously for the 3 peak summer months.
>
> If I were installing these furnaces back when they were new, I would
> have fabricated an exhaust gas and combustion intake heat exchanger to
> improve the efficiency of the units. That could have been done with
> all those units installed 20, 30 years ago to improve efficiency if
> they wanted to do that.
>
> The idea of electronic ignition does not thrill me. Too much
> technology (and too expensive) given the savings.
>
> The idea of a closed (sealed) combustion intake side (with scavaging
> heat from the exhaust side) does appeal to me - but that is basically
> "plumbing" and could have been done years ago with add-ons outside the
> furnace itself.
>
> Something else I'd do is create a ducted, gated path around my AC evap
> coil so in the winter the air can flow around the coils instead of
> being forced through them.
>
> Beyond a more efficient heat exchanger (which I presume they are today
> vs 20 or 30 years ago) I would think they'd be making them out of
> stainless steel by now (are they?). I would also think they would
> have variable gas valves (variable BTU output, instead of full-on or
> full-off) or staged valves. Do they have this today?
>
> What about electronically commutated motors? How many furnaces have
> those today? I would replace my motors with those if they were
> available - at a reasonable price.
>
> But you know what would really motivate me to replace my furnaces
> today?
>
> Give me a furnace where the motor also runs on natural gas so I still
> have heat if there's a power failure.
>
> I'd also like to see someone come out with a heat exchanger that has
> water sprayed onto it as a way to humidify the air (and take even more
> heat away from the exchanger and put it in the house). Does anyone do
> that?

Not yet, because the engineers are scrambling to design equipment that meets
the ever-changing DOE, and EPA laws, rules, and regulations. Then there's
the problem of reducng the carbon footprint and creating "Green" equipment.
There are gas furnaces on the market that are 96% efficient. Unless there
are major changes in technology, thats about the best your gonna do.



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