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AC installation causing furnace to hit high limit

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AC installation causing furnace to hit high limit Jorge 11-13-2007
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Posted by HVAC Guy on November 14, 2007, 8:40 pm
kool wrote:

> > Change the size of the pulley wheel on your motor (make it a
> > little larger) and get a new belt if necessary. This will
> > increase the air
>
> Ya, overamp your motor and burn it out...good suggestion.

Oh pulleeeze.

Your average 1/4 or 1/3 hp blower motor with a 1.15 sf rating can
easily handle a pulley change from 3" to 4" or 4" to 5".

Something you bone-heads forget is that the furnace blower motor is
helped by the fact that it's always being cooled by the return air, so
it's thermally well protected.

Jorge wrote:

> Does anyone have an opinion about the best option.

Jorge, increasing the pulley size by 1" is a perfectly good and
perfectly reliable solution. A year ago I did the same thing on my
furnace to increase airflow to the second story of my house.

If you're really concerned about reducing the life of your motor, then
oil the motor and the blower bearings when you change the pulley (I
bet they haven't been oiled for years). The motors they put in the
old furnaces like you and I have are not very efficient (no small
electric motor is) but they're durable.

> Can anyone comment on the urgency of the situation... how soon
> do I need to fix this problem?
> If the high limit switch burns out, then I am probably in
> serious trouble. How likely is that to happen?

No furnace should be hitting it's high limit. It's not a situation
you want to happen. Normally it happens because your fan belt breaks,
or your motor dies. And no, the high-limit switch doesn't "burn out"
because of repeated use. It's usually part of the furnace thermostat
that starts your blower anyways and stops your motor when the furnace
has cooled down at the end of a heating cycle.

You'd only be in serious trouble if hi-limit switch failed AND your
fan stopped turning at the same time.

And in spite of what other fools here have said, it's perfectly safe
to turn down your burners a little to compensate for insufficient
airflow. There is nothing magical or critical about the burners that
require a precisely controlled and specified NG input pressure. They
can operate over a wide range of reduced NG pressure and flow rates.

Turning your burners down is safer than having your furnace run and
always be hitting the high limit. That is a fact.

Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace? Humidifiers are
ducted to take air from the supply duct, force it through a rotating
drum or stationary sponge, and let it re-enter the furnace through the
cold air return. You might have too much air flowing through the
humidifier circuit. See if there's a gate or baffle in the humidifer
circuit and close it down and see if that helps.

Something else you can do if you're really in a bind is to open a hole
(or maybe you already have a vent) directly on the return air plenum.
If you have insufficient cold-air return then opening a hole will
allow the fan to "suck" more air through the furnace, thereby making
it less likely it will hit the hi-limit.

Taking the cover off your humidifier (if you have one) would suffice.

Posted by Bubba on November 15, 2007, 7:36 am

>kool wrote:
>
>> > Change the size of the pulley wheel on your motor (make it a
>> > little larger) and get a new belt if necessary. This will
>> > increase the air
>>
>> Ya, overamp your motor and burn it out...good suggestion.
>
>Oh pulleeeze.
>
>Your average 1/4 or 1/3 hp blower motor with a 1.15 sf rating can
>easily handle a pulley change from 3" to 4" or 4" to 5".
>
>Something you bone-heads forget is that the furnace blower motor is
>helped by the fact that it's always being cooled by the return air, so
>it's thermally well protected.
>
>Jorge wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have an opinion about the best option.
>
>Jorge, increasing the pulley size by 1" is a perfectly good and
>perfectly reliable solution. A year ago I did the same thing on my
>furnace to increase airflow to the second story of my house.
>
>If you're really concerned about reducing the life of your motor, then
>oil the motor and the blower bearings when you change the pulley (I
>bet they haven't been oiled for years). The motors they put in the
>old furnaces like you and I have are not very efficient (no small
>electric motor is) but they're durable.
>
>> Can anyone comment on the urgency of the situation... how soon
>> do I need to fix this problem?
>> If the high limit switch burns out, then I am probably in
>> serious trouble. How likely is that to happen?
>
>No furnace should be hitting it's high limit. It's not a situation
>you want to happen. Normally it happens because your fan belt breaks,
>or your motor dies. And no, the high-limit switch doesn't "burn out"
>because of repeated use. It's usually part of the furnace thermostat
>that starts your blower anyways and stops your motor when the furnace
>has cooled down at the end of a heating cycle.
>
>You'd only be in serious trouble if hi-limit switch failed AND your
>fan stopped turning at the same time.
>
>And in spite of what other fools here have said, it's perfectly safe
>to turn down your burners a little to compensate for insufficient
>airflow. There is nothing magical or critical about the burners that
>require a precisely controlled and specified NG input pressure. They
>can operate over a wide range of reduced NG pressure and flow rates.
>
>Turning your burners down is safer than having your furnace run and
>always be hitting the high limit. That is a fact.
>
>Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace? Humidifiers are
>ducted to take air from the supply duct, force it through a rotating
>drum or stationary sponge, and let it re-enter the furnace through the
>cold air return. You might have too much air flowing through the
>humidifier circuit. See if there's a gate or baffle in the humidifer
>circuit and close it down and see if that helps.
>
>Something else you can do if you're really in a bind is to open a hole
>(or maybe you already have a vent) directly on the return air plenum.
>If you have insufficient cold-air return then opening a hole will
>allow the fan to "suck" more air through the furnace, thereby making
>it less likely it will hit the hi-limit.
>
>Taking the cover off your humidifier (if you have one) would suffice.

"ding, ding, ding" We have a winner.
The newest Stormy has just spoken.
"notAhvacGuy"....you are absolutely clueless and NO, there is no way I
would tell you what you said is wrong. You arent worth the effort.
Bubba

Posted by HVAC Guy on November 15, 2007, 9:21 am
Full-quoter Bubba wrote:

(thanks for full-quoting me. You're repeating my advice, which is
giving it a wider audience - you fucking stupid moron)

> ... and NO, there is no way I would tell you what you said is
> wrong.

Because you're a chicken-shit moron who doesn't want to embarras
himself by getting into an argument you're going to lose. You know
you can't win this argument because you know I'm right.

Posted by Bill on November 15, 2007, 9:51 am
> > ... and NO, there is no way I would tell you what you said is
> > wrong.
>
> Because you're a chicken-shit moron who doesn't want to embarras
> himself by getting into an argument you're going to lose. You know
> you can't win this argument because you know I'm right.

Dude give it up. Those that know sure as hell aren't interested in
teaching you combustion basics.
You've already exposed yourself for a clueless asshole. How about you
take your expert ass over to alt.homemoaner.repair where you can brag
how you know more than the assholes at alt.hvac and they can actually
believe you.
I bet when you get a flat tire you adjust the engine air intake.

That you haven't the brains to study what we do, shows you for the we
todd did sob you are.

Don't bother with a smart-ass retort. You'd just fuck it up. Just move
along boy.

--
ur sofa king we Todd did

Posted by The Freon Cowboy on November 15, 2007, 11:25 am
actually Moron , i think he refuses to have a battle of wits with an unarmed
person ;-)


>Full-quoter Bubba wrote:


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