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AC installation causing furnace to hit high limit

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AC installation causing furnace to hit high limit Jorge 11-13-2007
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Posted by Zyp on November 15, 2007, 12:13 pm
HVAC Guy wrote:
> Full-quoter Bubba wrote:
>
> (thanks for full-quoting me. You're repeating my advice, which is
> giving it a wider audience - you fucking stupid moron)
>
>> ... and NO, there is no way I would tell you what you said is
>> wrong.
>
> Because you're a chicken-shit moron who doesn't want to embarras
> himself by getting into an argument you're going to lose. You know
> you can't win this argument because you know I'm right.

HVAC Gay Guy hasn't been right yet. What' makes you *think* your right is
your gay boy friend said so.

--
Zyp



Posted by Bubba on November 15, 2007, 5:18 pm

>Full-quoter Bubba wrote:
>
>(thanks for full-quoting me. You're repeating my advice, which is
>giving it a wider audience - you fucking stupid moron)
>

Sorry junior. Im "full-quoting" you because I, as others, love a great
laugh at how stupid someone such as yourself can be.

>> ... and NO, there is no way I would tell you what you said is
>> wrong.
>
>Because you're a chicken-shit moron who doesn't want to embarras
>himself by getting into an argument you're going to lose. You know
>you can't win this argument because you know I'm right.

I think you have already proven who the moron is and had you been here
long enough you would know that embarrasment is not in my vocabulary.
How about I take bets on how long your keyboard (mouth) keeps running
in here?
Looks like I've found another highway sitting diapered window licker.
Bubba


Posted by Zyp on November 15, 2007, 12:08 pm
HVAC Guy wrote:
> kool wrote:
>
>>> Change the size of the pulley wheel on your motor (make it a
>>> little larger) and get a new belt if necessary. This will
>>> increase the air
>>
>> Ya, overamp your motor and burn it out...good suggestion.
>
> Oh pulleeeze.
>
> Your average 1/4 or 1/3 hp blower motor with a 1.15 sf rating can
> easily handle a pulley change from 3" to 4" or 4" to 5".
>
> Something you bone-heads forget is that the furnace blower motor is
> helped by the fact that it's always being cooled by the return air, so
> it's thermally well protected.
>
> Jorge wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have an opinion about the best option.
>
> Jorge, increasing the pulley size by 1" is a perfectly good and
> perfectly reliable solution. A year ago I did the same thing on my
> furnace to increase airflow to the second story of my house.
>
> If you're really concerned about reducing the life of your motor, then
> oil the motor and the blower bearings when you change the pulley (I
> bet they haven't been oiled for years). The motors they put in the
> old furnaces like you and I have are not very efficient (no small
> electric motor is) but they're durable.
>
>> Can anyone comment on the urgency of the situation... how soon
>> do I need to fix this problem?
>> If the high limit switch burns out, then I am probably in
>> serious trouble. How likely is that to happen?
>
> No furnace should be hitting it's high limit. It's not a situation
> you want to happen. Normally it happens because your fan belt breaks,
> or your motor dies. And no, the high-limit switch doesn't "burn out"
> because of repeated use. It's usually part of the furnace thermostat
> that starts your blower anyways and stops your motor when the furnace
> has cooled down at the end of a heating cycle.
>
> You'd only be in serious trouble if hi-limit switch failed AND your
> fan stopped turning at the same time.
>
> And in spite of what other fools here have said, it's perfectly safe
> to turn down your burners a little to compensate for insufficient
> airflow. There is nothing magical or critical about the burners that
> require a precisely controlled and specified NG input pressure. They
> can operate over a wide range of reduced NG pressure and flow rates.
>
> Turning your burners down is safer than having your furnace run and
> always be hitting the high limit. That is a fact.
>
> Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace? Humidifiers are
> ducted to take air from the supply duct, force it through a rotating
> drum or stationary sponge, and let it re-enter the furnace through the
> cold air return. You might have too much air flowing through the
> humidifier circuit. See if there's a gate or baffle in the humidifer
> circuit and close it down and see if that helps.
>
> Something else you can do if you're really in a bind is to open a hole
> (or maybe you already have a vent) directly on the return air plenum.
> If you have insufficient cold-air return then opening a hole will
> allow the fan to "suck" more air through the furnace, thereby making
> it less likely it will hit the hi-limit.
>
> Taking the cover off your humidifier (if you have one) would suffice.

I didn't forget crap. Just because the service factor is +15% doesn't mean
you still can't over amp the motor. You need to check it after adjusting
the sheeve ass hole. Otherwise you'll be back with complaints. How the
f*** do you know? Can you see his house from your computer?

--
Zyp



Posted by geothermaljones on November 16, 2007, 5:07 pm
HVAC Guy...

My blower doesn't have a belt, should I just blank off 1/2 the squirrel cage
w/duct tape? That's gotta change the airflow.
And when I adjust my burners, do I want that bright blue flame, or can milk
it down to that pretty orange & yellow w/ the black stream of soot?

Hope your buying life insurance on all the folks your killing.
geothermaljones




> kool wrote:
>
> > > Change the size of the pulley wheel on your motor (make it a
> > > little larger) and get a new belt if necessary. This will
> > > increase the air
> >
> > Ya, overamp your motor and burn it out...good suggestion.
>
> Oh pulleeeze.
>
> Your average 1/4 or 1/3 hp blower motor with a 1.15 sf rating can
> easily handle a pulley change from 3" to 4" or 4" to 5".
>
> Something you bone-heads forget is that the furnace blower motor is
> helped by the fact that it's always being cooled by the return air, so
> it's thermally well protected.
>
> Jorge wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have an opinion about the best option.
>
> Jorge, increasing the pulley size by 1" is a perfectly good and
> perfectly reliable solution. A year ago I did the same thing on my
> furnace to increase airflow to the second story of my house.
>
> If you're really concerned about reducing the life of your motor, then
> oil the motor and the blower bearings when you change the pulley (I
> bet they haven't been oiled for years). The motors they put in the
> old furnaces like you and I have are not very efficient (no small
> electric motor is) but they're durable.
>
> > Can anyone comment on the urgency of the situation... how soon
> > do I need to fix this problem?
> > If the high limit switch burns out, then I am probably in
> > serious trouble. How likely is that to happen?
>
> No furnace should be hitting it's high limit. It's not a situation
> you want to happen. Normally it happens because your fan belt breaks,
> or your motor dies. And no, the high-limit switch doesn't "burn out"
> because of repeated use. It's usually part of the furnace thermostat
> that starts your blower anyways and stops your motor when the furnace
> has cooled down at the end of a heating cycle.
>
> You'd only be in serious trouble if hi-limit switch failed AND your
> fan stopped turning at the same time.
>
> And in spite of what other fools here have said, it's perfectly safe
> to turn down your burners a little to compensate for insufficient
> airflow. There is nothing magical or critical about the burners that
> require a precisely controlled and specified NG input pressure. They
> can operate over a wide range of reduced NG pressure and flow rates.
>
> Turning your burners down is safer than having your furnace run and
> always be hitting the high limit. That is a fact.
>
> Do you have a humidifier attached to the furnace? Humidifiers are
> ducted to take air from the supply duct, force it through a rotating
> drum or stationary sponge, and let it re-enter the furnace through the
> cold air return. You might have too much air flowing through the
> humidifier circuit. See if there's a gate or baffle in the humidifer
> circuit and close it down and see if that helps.
>
> Something else you can do if you're really in a bind is to open a hole
> (or maybe you already have a vent) directly on the return air plenum.
> If you have insufficient cold-air return then opening a hole will
> allow the fan to "suck" more air through the furnace, thereby making
> it less likely it will hit the hi-limit.
>
> Taking the cover off your humidifier (if you have one) would suffice.



Posted by Zyp on November 14, 2007, 1:33 pm
HVAC Guy wrote:
> Jorge wrote:
>
>> The company suggests the following options:
>
>> 2) modify ductwork by adding a bypass around the coil for winter
>> usage
>
>> Does anyone have an opinion about the best option.
>
> Change the size of the pulley wheel on your motor (make it a little
> larger) and get a new belt if necessary. This will increase the air
> flow speed through your furnace and *might* prevent it from hitting
> the high limit.
>
> The other option is turn down the setting on your gas valve to reduce
> the flame size. Your furnace will run a little cooler, and you might
> realize some fuel savings.
>
> Also, are all of your vents in the house open and unobstructed?
>
> Your last resort is to build a bypass duct around the coil, but that
> is definately better than replacing your furnace for such a trivial
> reason.
>
>> Also, when scoping out a house for AC, is it standard
>> procedure to look at the size of the duct work?
>
> No. The idiots who claim to be experts don't waste their time with
> that. They assume that if your furnace works, and if you're warm
> enough in the winter, then the AC evap coil will work just fine with
> your existing ducting.

BTW: It's never a good idea to adjust the appliance gas pressure regulator
to anything but 3.5" w.c. for natural gas. [Unless it's other than a
*common* forced air furnace. The the manifold pressure recommended by the
Mfg. could be different.] The size of the burner spuds, verus the burner
primare air are set for that pressure. Anything lower would result in less
than complete combustion.

--
Zyp



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