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Posted by Bubba on November 14, 2007, 4:25 pm
More bullshit from "notAhvacGuy".
>Jorge wrote:
>
>> The company suggests the following options:
>
>> 2) modify ductwork by adding a bypass around the coil for winter usage
>
>> Does anyone have an opinion about the best option.
>
>Change the size of the pulley wheel on your motor (make it a little
>larger) and get a new belt if necessary. This will increase the air
>flow speed through your furnace and *might* prevent it from hitting
>the high limit.
This will most likely also cause excess motor amperage which will burn
out your motor. The extra speed may also burn out the bearings in the
blower shaft bearings.
>
>The other option is turn down the setting on your gas valve to reduce
>the flame size. Your furnace will run a little cooler, and you might
>realize some fuel savings.
>
Another tried and true idiot maneuver by the "NOTaHVACguy"
This method can cause a high fuel mixture which causes soot and carbon
monoxide. It will also change the temp rise through the heat exchanger
putting it out of the accepted range.
>Also, are all of your vents in the house open and unobstructed?
>
>Your last resort is to build a bypass duct around the coil, but that
>is definately better than replacing your furnace for such a trivial
>reason.
>
>> Also, when scoping out a house for AC, is it standard
>> procedure to look at the size of the duct work?
>
>No. The idiots who claim to be experts don't waste their time with
>that. They assume that if your furnace works, and if you're warm
>enough in the winter, then the AC evap coil will work just fine with
>your existing ducting.
Quite the contrary. A few of the home inspectors are getting a little
better. If the temp rise for heating and cooling is not within a
certain standard they use, they mention it on their report and advise
having it checked by a licensed hvac contractor. Ive had two of them
referred to me lately and the inspectors were right.
You dont do this much.......do you Mr. "notAhvacGuy?"
Bubba
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