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AC not keeping up - tech says its ok - any ideas?

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AC not keeping up - tech says its ok - any ideas? zirconx9 07-22-2006
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Posted by PJ ;-) on July 25, 2006, 2:07 am
zirconx9@yahoo.com wrote:
> I'm having trouble with the air conditioner in the house I just moved
> into. I know its hard to diagnose anything over the 'net but I am out
> of ideas and am looking for things to check on.
>
> The house was built in '85, its 1450 sq ft,
~135m2

> split level design. I am
> in the midwest. The livingroom and dining room are together under a
> vaulted ceiling. I've been in the attic and it looks like there is at
> least 12" of newer fiberglass insulation up there. The AC unit looks
> fairly new (5 yrs?) and is a 2.5 ton.
~8.8kW
Now, 8800/135 = 65w/m2. Normal design for domestic would be
130-140w/m2. You are way short on capacity. Your a/c will run
continually on hot days and cost lots of energy.

>
> The symtoms are: its hot! I had an AC guy come out because the house
> was 80 degrees at the thermostat, which is located in a hallway between
> the living room/dining room and the bedrooms. He checked the freeon
> level, put a new filter in, and cleaned the condenser coils.
He wasted your money. He didn't pick the unit is too small. Another
professional ripping of the public.


> If you have any ideas I'd appriciate it. My AC pretty much runs
> constantly during the day, all the way until 11 or 12 at night. I'm
> not looking forward to getting my first electric bill.
It will be a killer. You need a bigger unit or zoning to reduce the
load. Best of luck.


Posted by Gibbel on July 31, 2006, 11:03 pm
You just described my situation EXACTLY. Exactly the same kind of
temperature swings, etc.

Outdoor unit is a TempStar 2.5 ton 12 seer.

Indoor unit is a Goodman GMP075-3 (only one notch up from the cheapest
and least powerful unit they made).

I live in a condo which I learned are usually made from the absolute
cheapest materials available to keep costs down.

I've had techs as well say the same thing, "it's running fine."
Finally I was advised that the system just isn't powerful enough.

I'm having someone come out to spec me out a new ac/air handler that
will do the fucking job.



zirconx9@yahoo.com wrote:

>I'm having trouble with the air conditioner in the house I just moved
>into. I know its hard to diagnose anything over the 'net but I am out
>of ideas and am looking for things to check on.
>
>The house was built in '85, its 1450 sq ft, split level design. I am
>in the midwest. The livingroom and dining room are together under a
>vaulted ceiling. I've been in the attic and it looks like there is at
>least 12" of newer fiberglass insulation up there. The AC unit looks
>fairly new (5 yrs?) and is a 2.5 ton.
>
>The symtoms are: its hot! I had an AC guy come out because the house
>was 80 degrees at the thermostat, which is located in a hallway between
>the living room/dining room and the bedrooms. He checked the freeon
>level, put a new filter in, and cleaned the condenser coils. He said
>when its 100+ degrees out, its reasonable to only get down to 80. My
>last house, a 1960 ranch, had no problem cooling in any conditions, but
>ok.
>
>Today its 84 degrees out, and its 75 in the house. A 9 degree drop!
>Seems ridiculous to me. Also since the tech has been out I had the
>strongest tint available installed on all the windows in the living
>room and dining room.
>
>He said he was getting a -21 degree drop between in the in/out air at
>the evaporator, which he said was normal. I've checked the air coming
>out of the vents and its around 56-59 degrees. It feels like there is
>plenty of air flow out of the vents. Half of the vents in the basement
>are closed to push more air to the upper levels.
>
>If you have any ideas I'd appriciate it. My AC pretty much runs
>constantly during the day, all the way until 11 or 12 at night. I'm
>not looking forward to getting my first electric bill.


Posted by PJ ;-) on August 1, 2006, 12:05 am

Gibbel wrote:
> You just described my situation EXACTLY. Exactly the same kind of
> temperature swings, etc.
>
> Outdoor unit is a TempStar 2.5 ton 12 seer.
>
> Indoor unit is a Goodman GMP075-3 (only one notch up from the cheapest
> and least powerful unit they made).
>
> I live in a condo which I learned are usually made from the absolute
> cheapest materials available to keep costs down.
>
> I've had techs as well say the same thing, "it's running fine."
> Finally I was advised that the system just isn't powerful enough.
>
> I'm having someone come out to spec me out a new ac/air handler that
> will do the fucking job.
>

You need to have the tech carryout a heat load. Anything less than
90w/m2 (for the specific zone being conditioned) and you have to start
asking questions. Why is the capacity low. Could be VERY efficient
house, doubt it, small unit costs less (read more profit for the cost).

I have seen people on this site bitchin' about unit performance and it
happens they have something like 50w/m2. No bloody wonder it doesn't
work. Put a two cylinder bike motor in an F350. It will perform like
shit. You need correct capacity for the job.


Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 1, 2006, 7:36 am
Before you replace equipment, please try to find an AC service guy who
knows how ot clean coils. I've seen several times that dirty coils
behave like too little cooling. A cleaning may restore the cooling.

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

You just described my situation EXACTLY. Exactly the same kind of
temperature swings, etc.

Outdoor unit is a TempStar 2.5 ton 12 seer.

Indoor unit is a Goodman GMP075-3 (only one notch up from the cheapest
and least powerful unit they made).

I live in a condo which I learned are usually made from the absolute
cheapest materials available to keep costs down.

I've had techs as well say the same thing, "it's running fine."
Finally I was advised that the system just isn't powerful enough.

I'm having someone come out to spec me out a new ac/air handler that
will do the fucking job.




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