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Amana 4 ton condenser blower motor

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Amana 4 ton condenser blower motor Scott 07-11-2007
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Posted by B-Hate-Me on July 11, 2007, 12:34 pm

> Thanks folks, good to know others have successfully cleaned and lubed
> the outdoor fan motors.

Be sure to use LOTS of lube, if you are taking the mormun's advice.

$500.00 is not a high price for the replacement. My flat rate price for
that particular job is $565.00 for non-service agreement customers.

If you lube the fucking thing the warranty is void.


PS- Did you know that the mormuns wear magik underwear?



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Posted by Ken on July 11, 2007, 12:06 pm
Scott wrote:
>> Scott wrote:
>>> I have a 9 yr old Amana 4 ton 12 seer unit on my 9 yr old house in
>>> Houston TX. Yes, we use the AC nearly year-round so down here they
>>> seem to have a 10-15 year life span from what people tell me.
>>> Mine is having kicking off problems where it stops before the
>>> requested amount of cooling. I replaced the computer thermostat with
>>> the original manual one and tested to see if the therm was the
>>> problem, which it was not. So, then I called a company a neighbor
>>> recommended and the tech appeared to be well trained and did many
>>> tests, found the systems (upper level was not giving any issue) to
>>> both be 2lbs low on coolant gas which he added. He also indicated the
>>> blower motor was over-amping and was having trouble starting. He
>>> replaced the starter capacitor but it still has trouble starting. He
>>> tested for leaks around the evaporator using a sniffer and found
>>> none. The house air handlers (is that what they are called?) pressure
>>> drop across the evaporator was found to be ok, and other tests he
>>> performed.
>>> He recommended cleaning the condenser fins, and replacing the blower
>>> motor. The cost for the new blower motor was $500+ including labor.
>>> Having purchased a new 1hp 115v TEFC motor for my bandsaw for little
>>> over $100, I was wondering how this motor could cost so much to
>>> replace. I told them thanks for the good work but I wanted to get
>>> another estimate.
>>> FYI - The tech charged us over $300 for the testing, service call and
>>> charging of the freon, so I'm not against paying for the work that was
>>> performed by a knowledable tech.
>>> FYI part 2: I'm a homeowner, not a HVAC trained tech, but I have
>>> extensive experience with various repairs and can easily turn off the
>>> power and physically replace the motor. I have re-wired an entire
>>> house including 220v appliances, piped in natural gas lines to
>>> appliances and water heaters, re-done a house's entire plumbing system
>>> (this is also called buying the wrong house to fix up, but that's
>>> another story), and more. In my spare time I build furniture and
>>> repair cars, so I think I'm able to swap parts now that the
>>> diagnostics have been done.
>>> My questions are:
>>> * Is this estimate out of line for replacing the blower motor?
>>> * Where can I get a Amana condenser blower motor for my unit so I can
>>> replace it myself?
>>> * I see on Ebay some blower motors for less than $100 (item
>>> #170128953740). After searching this group and reading on replacing
>>> motors I'm aware of the need for careful matching of direction, size
>>> and amp draw. If I can find one that matches the HP, direction, shaft
>>> dia and amp rating, wouldn't that work?
>>> * What is the best way to clean the condenser fins? I am planning on
>>> turning off the power to the unit and opening it up, spraying a simple
>>> green and water solution, letting it soak a minute and then using a
>>> garden hose to spray through it from the inside out (reverse flow for
>>> my unit).
>>> I can handle the flamers if some of you can provide me good
>>> information.
>>> Thanks in advance - Scott
>> You say above "He also indicated the blower motor was over-amping and
>> was having trouble starting." The blower motor is generally defined as
>> the motor in your air handler that moves the air in your home.
>>
>> Toward the end of your post you say "Where can I get a Amana condenser
>> blower motor for my unit so I can replace it myself?" These are two
>> different motors. One moves air through the evaporator coil and the
>> other through the condenser coil. Which one do you need?
>>
>> If your "Motor" is turning off, are both fan motors turning off or
just
>> one of them? Needing two pounds of freon is not a good omen. Lack of
>> coolant will make the compressor run hot and that could cause it to shut
>> down. You would do well to find fix the leak first. Define your
>> problem further.- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> I appreicate the help, but I get the feeling you're looking at things
> to criticise.

        I was not trying to criticize, but to define what your situation and
problem was. Although there certainly are some who are here to do just
that, there are also those who don't mind helping answer questions asked
by posters. No one can answer your questions intelligently without
knowing exactly what you are describing. Lighten up!

I indicated I'm not in this as a profession, so misused
> the term blower for fan. I'm referring to the fan that draws air
> across the outside unit condenser, that is the one that is giving
> trouble. When it overheats & turns off, as the tech explained to me,
> the system shuts down and eventually (when the thermostat is set to
> auto) the furnace blower shuts off. He did not find issues that I did
> not mention.
>
> The sniffer did not find a leak, and since both units were down the
> same 2lbs he figured the installer either made a mistake or was being
> cheap by saving r-22 (gee, a HVAC company being cheap?) as it would be
> a fairly low probability for both to be down nearly the same exact
> amount.

        Agreed. If however you do have a leak and it is not fixed, you could
be a consistent source of income for him.
>
> The problem is, the outside condenser fan motor on the bigger 4 ton
> unit does not want to run. It makes noise and is slow to get started
> rotating, it does not "snap" to full speed the way the same brand
> smaller unit does. The fan does appear to rotate freely when the
> power is off. Tech stated there is probably something wrong with the
> windings.

        If the fan motor for the condenser has the correct voltage applied, a
good capacitor where required, and is not binding, it probably is the
motor. How old is the motor??
>
> I just want to know if an exact brand replacement fan motor is
> strongly recommended and what are the pitfalls of using another motor
> that has the same exact specs, plus if someone knows of a good source
> on-line for such parts. The Ebay item was one that was an example, not
> something I was going to use as a replacement by guessing, give me
> some credit.

        You can buy a replacement motor at many places including Ebay. You
MUST however consider: operating voltage, rotation, HP, amperage,
mounting, physical size, case type, RPM and possibly more. Buying a
motor that is useless makes what seemed like a bargain end up costing
more. Good luck.

>
> Thanks folks, its hot here and while its limping along we need to get
> this fixed in the next week.
>
> Scott
>

Posted by Scott on July 11, 2007, 1:01 pm
Ok, I disconneded power and took the fan off the top of the condenser,
then used simple green & a fertilizer sprayer mounted to a hose to get
the soap everywhere on the inside of the coils, and then again on the
outside, switched to a knozzle and sprayed ton of dirt off the thing.
I felt bad having waited this long, we never cleaned them before.
Going to have to turn it off while I mow and trim around it from now
on, there was a fair bit of grass debris in it. Will do that annually
now that I am aware of it.

Using my chisel and a large rock, slip joint plyers and duct tape (G)
I removed the fan from the motor and found a cap that I removed
exposing some foam sort of thing that had oil on it and a shaft
bearing. There was some black crud (sorry for techical term) around
the lower bearing I scraped away, and then I added some heavy oil to
the bearing and foam, loaded it up as much as possible and then put
the covers back on. The black stuff may be because of overheating.
Oh well, the lube job was not too bad if it works. Got it all back
assembled and it runs again. Lets see if that's the problem. There
did not appear to be any bearing issues with rotation, so the tech
might be correct, the windings might be bad.

Did both units while I was at it, there was an old fire-ant mound
inside the smaller unit - had to get my shop vac out for that one!
quite a bit of dirt, about the size of twelve pack.

I also got the specs for the 4 ton motor - Emerson 1/4 horse job,
etc. Can look for replacement if needed, and I think I'll need it.

Scott



Posted by Scott on July 11, 2007, 1:31 pm
> Ok, I disconneded power and took the fan off the top of the condenser,
> then used simple green & a fertilizer sprayer mounted to a hose to get
> the soap everywhere on the inside of the coils, and then again on the
> outside, switched to a knozzle and sprayed ton of dirt off the thing.
> I felt bad having waited this long, we never cleaned them before.
> Going to have to turn it off while I mow and trim around it from now
> on, there was a fair bit of grass debris in it. Will do that annually
> now that I am aware of it.
>
> Using my chisel and a large rock, slip joint plyers and duct tape (G)
> I removed the fan from the motor and found a cap that I removed
> exposing some foam sort of thing that had oil on it and a shaft
> bearing. There was some black crud (sorry for techical term) around
> the lower bearing I scraped away, and then I added some heavy oil to
> the bearing and foam, loaded it up as much as possible and then put
> the covers back on. The black stuff may be because of overheating.
> Oh well, the lube job was not too bad if it works. Got it all back
> assembled and it runs again. Lets see if that's the problem. There
> did not appear to be any bearing issues with rotation, so the tech
> might be correct, the windings might be bad.
>
> Did both units while I was at it, there was an old fire-ant mound
> inside the smaller unit - had to get my shop vac out for that one!
> quite a bit of dirt, about the size of twelve pack.
>
> I also got the specs for the 4 ton motor - Emerson 1/4 horse job,
> etc. Can look for replacement if needed, and I think I'll need it.
>
> Scott

This is the exact specs of the motor, I think I can get a buddy with
an account to purchase one if I need it.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/4MB69

S


Posted by The Freon Cowboy on July 11, 2007, 2:46 pm
at that price i can see why it was gonna run ya 500.00

just installed one of those yesterday , 148 bucks. Geez!!!!!
i didnt pay half that for mine , ;-)
plus freight too i guess, how much is the cap gonna run ya ?

some bargain ,




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