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Armstrong EG6A125DC15-13 Roll Out Switch

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Armstrong EG6A125DC15-13 Roll Out Switch Bob Shuman 02-14-2008
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Posted by on February 16, 2008, 7:53 pm
I'm sorry, I thought the tread was about the flame roll out not the
blocked flue switch. Can you clarify????

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Posted by on February 16, 2008, 8:22 pm
On Feb 16, 7:53=A0pm, becauseofj...@mailcan.com wrote:
> I'm sorry, I thought the tread was about the flame roll out not the
> blocked flue switch. =A0Can you clarify????

First, I'm concerned the furnace is oversized for application which
would cause short cycling, moisture in heat exchanger, rusting of
burner and sooting of cells.

Have you had a Manual J, Heat/Load Loss Calc done on 1st floor? If
not, I highly recommend it. Any reputable contractor will do this
during their estimate on a new furnace, it is becoming law in a many
states.

You could easily tell if your furnace is short cycling by watching it
when you turn your heat up high, say 10 degress. Watch the flames, do
they shut down and blower continue to run with the thermostat
unsatisfied? If so, your furnace is short cycle, overheating. After
enough time, this can cause moisture to build up in the heat exchanger
just like only taking short trips in the car to the grocery store can
rust out your car's exhaust system.

For a roll out switch to trip, it happens for couple of reasons. What
I am hearing is that instead of rollout switch being licked by flames
rolling out of combustion chambers, the heat exchanger is overheating,
transferring heat into the front plate and then into the bracket that
holds the rollout switch then tripping the switch. (Unrelated: Rheem
had a problem on particular furance where there was a Service Alert to
replace the bracket on their rollout switches for this problem--not a
Rheem dealer, but you techs know--we service all makes and models).

Another way to tell if enough air is getting past heat exchanger is by
doing a CFM test. By this you measure the return air temperature and
supply air temperature (supply temp minus return temp). This is
called deltaT (temp differential). Take bonnet BTU of furnace (not
input but output, for example: input BTU, 125k btu furance multiplied
by efficency, say 65% or .65) divided by deltaT that has been
multiplied by 1.08. CFM for 125k BTU, I'm hoping you have 1600 or
better for your furnace.

bonnet BTU
CFM =3D _____________________
deltaT x 1.08

If not moving not enough air, get the Manual J. If furnace is sized
properly for house, then insist on Manual D...and always change your
filter. (may I suggest you avoid the pleated filters at this stage??)

Posted by Zyp on February 17, 2008, 5:26 pm
becauseofjunk@mailcan.com wrote:
> On Feb 16, 7:53 pm, becauseofj...@mailcan.com wrote:
>> I'm sorry, I thought the tread was about the flame roll out not the
>> blocked flue switch. Can you clarify????
>
> First, I'm concerned the furnace is oversized for application which
> would cause short cycling, moisture in heat exchanger, rusting of
> burner and sooting of cells.
>
> Have you had a Manual J, Heat/Load Loss Calc done on 1st floor? If
> not, I highly recommend it. Any reputable contractor will do this
> during their estimate on a new furnace, it is becoming law in a many
> states.
>
> You could easily tell if your furnace is short cycling by watching it
> when you turn your heat up high, say 10 degress. Watch the flames, do
> they shut down and blower continue to run with the thermostat
> unsatisfied? If so, your furnace is short cycle, overheating. After
> enough time, this can cause moisture to build up in the heat exchanger
> just like only taking short trips in the car to the grocery store can
> rust out your car's exhaust system.
>
> For a roll out switch to trip, it happens for couple of reasons. What
> I am hearing is that instead of rollout switch being licked by flames
> rolling out of combustion chambers, the heat exchanger is overheating,
> transferring heat into the front plate and then into the bracket that
> holds the rollout switch then tripping the switch. (Unrelated: Rheem
> had a problem on particular furance where there was a Service Alert to
> replace the bracket on their rollout switches for this problem--not a
> Rheem dealer, but you techs know--we service all makes and models).
>
> Another way to tell if enough air is getting past heat exchanger is by
> doing a CFM test. By this you measure the return air temperature and
> supply air temperature (supply temp minus return temp). This is
> called deltaT (temp differential). Take bonnet BTU of furnace (not
> input but output, for example: input BTU, 125k btu furance multiplied
> by efficency, say 65% or .65) divided by deltaT that has been
> multiplied by 1.08. CFM for 125k BTU, I'm hoping you have 1600 or
> better for your furnace.
>
> bonnet BTU
> CFM = _____________________
> deltaT x 1.08
>
> If not moving not enough air, get the Manual J. If furnace is sized
> properly for house, then insist on Manual D...and always change your
> filter. (may I suggest you avoid the pleated filters at this stage??)

Wow, such detail for such a interesting quandary. Are you sure of all that?
Perhaps you want to just camp at his house for the afternoon.

Could be something as simple as leaving the blower door on the furnace ajar.
Combustion air vent [inlet] blockage for the equipment closet? Could be
something as simple as a failed firebox. Doubt it's the switch. Doubt the
firebox is seeing to much heat [transferring it to the switch]. If the
firebox was sooting, and, there was flame impingement, it can have a
rupture. A rupture that doesn't show on visual. It could open after
heating a bit causing flames to roll out. [There's a reason the Mfg. put
the switch in the first place.]

--
Zyp



Posted by Bob Shuman on February 18, 2008, 11:03 pm
To clarify, the switch I am having trouble with is at the top of the unit
nearest to the exhaust flue. It is called a "roll out" switch in the
schematic drawing, so I called it the same. It is identical to the "roll
out" switch at the front and slightly above the burner elements. That
switch seems to be operating fine since it is not tripping.

Also, someone suggested the furnace may be short cycling, but this is not
the case either. The thermostat calls for heat, the pilot gets gas, the
electronic ignition kicks in and the pilot lights, then the thermocouple
senses the flame and turns on gas to the burners which ignite. They burn
for about 20-30 seconds and the blower fan kicks in. The gas burners and
blower run till temperature is reached and the thermostat shuts off, the gas
valve closes and the burners shut down. The blower fan runs for a few
minutes and then shuts off when the low temp limit is reached.

I just do not understand why the sheet metal at the top near the exhaust
flue gets hot enough to shut down the unit when the manual shut off valve is
fully opened. Hope this clarifies the situation.

Bob

> I'm sorry, I thought the tread was about the flame roll out not the
> blocked flue switch. Can you clarify????



Posted by Noon-Air on February 19, 2008, 9:03 am

> To clarify, the switch I am having trouble with is at the top of the unit
> nearest to the exhaust flue. It is called a "roll out" switch in the
> schematic drawing, so I called it the same. It is identical to the "roll
> out" switch at the front and slightly above the burner elements. That
> switch seems to be operating fine since it is not tripping.
>
> Also, someone suggested the furnace may be short cycling, but this is not
> the case either. The thermostat calls for heat, the pilot gets gas, the
> electronic ignition kicks in and the pilot lights, then the thermocouple
> senses the flame and turns on gas to the burners which ignite. They burn
> for about 20-30 seconds and the blower fan kicks in. The gas burners and
> blower run till temperature is reached and the thermostat shuts off, the
> gas valve closes and the burners shut down. The blower fan runs for a few
> minutes and then shuts off when the low temp limit is reached.
>
> I just do not understand why the sheet metal at the top near the exhaust
> flue gets hot enough to shut down the unit when the manual shut off valve
> is fully opened. Hope this clarifies the situation.

How long are you going to keep screwing with it before you call somebody
that knows WTF they are doing??



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