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Posted by Zyp on September 3, 2007, 8:18 pm
.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:
> On Mon, 03 Sep 2007 15:28:01 -0700, dpontrelli@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> I got a 2nd opinion and found out there was no filter drier in the
>> air handler and I'm told that really screwed the system. Could this
>> be true?
>
> Yep.
>
>> Full details below.
>>
>> -I spoke with the owner of the company that installed and has been
>> servicing the unit. He says one of his techs felt the TXV valve was
>> bad but they worked with Bryant over the phone who said the
>> reversing valve was bad based on the data given. He said it would
>> be close to $1000 to replace both and I should call Bryant and bitch
>> to see what they'd do since the unit is only 14 months old.
>
> Bullshit. **IF** he weren't lying to you, then HE should call
> Bryant, not YOU. However, he's just blowing you off, neither he nor
> his techs have a clue. BTW, I GUARANTEE that no one at Bryant
> suggested the reversing valve was the casue of your problems. Why ?
> Because IT CAN NOT CAUSE THOSE SYMPTOMS.
>
>> -I called a new hvac company for a 2nd opininon. They sent a tech
>> out. He measured the refrigerant psi for the lines attached to the
>> condenser. He noted the pressure was climbing from 200 to almost 400
>> psi, at which point the release valve kicked in and it would soon
>> start all over again. He had eventually gotten the pressure stable
>> and said he believed there was contamination in the line and the
>> issue was now fixed (although I found no change later on). This is
>> the info he gave me on what he did:
>
> No. Contamination in the line will NOT cause that symptom.
> MASSIVE OVERCHARGE will.
>
>> -found system overcharged
>> -found system heat pressure raising to 450psi from 210
>> -pumped system down, inspected piston at liquid line at condenser &
>> screen at condenser. Found a small chunk of possibly brazing rod
>> -flushed nitrogen through lineset to make sure there was good flow
>
> Bullshit - that does NOTHING to clear debris from the line.
>
>> -pulled system into deep vacuum
>> -recovered some of refrigerant to proper charge
>> -system working properly
>> -suction & liquid pressure steady
>> - 10 degree superheat LO 80
>> -12 degree subcooling Hi 200
>> -18 degree delta T - compressor amps 10.1
>
> Not good numbers. Especially the SH, and the delta.
>
>> I called the company back and they sent out another guy. He
>> energized/ de-energized the reversing valve using heat and cooling
>> but it did not help.
>
> Duh.
>
>> He had been looking at the air handler and says there's no filter
>> drier installed and now the system needs to be cleaned out, txv
>> replaced, filter drier installed and we mostly likely don't have a
>> filter drier on our other system (although that one's been
>> functioning ok).
>
> A filter / drier is MANDATORY. Whether or not you HAVE one is
> another question. I am not convinced that you don't. Most units will
> have them BUILT IN FROM THE FACTORY, and it's vvery possible the
> asshoel tech doesn't recognise it.
>
>> I looked at the documentation for this unit and the filter drier is
>> listed under optional equipment but another page says it is suggested
>> in all field-connected split-system heat pumps. Can the absence of
>> this filter really cause the issue? If so, is this a major mis-step
>> of the installers to not put it in?
>
> yes and yes.
>
> What you need now is a THRID company, and tell them to send
> their BEST tech, becuase the last 2 company's didnt' know what they
> were doing.
>
>
>
> --
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>
> Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
> 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
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Why don't you call BRYANT? Have a BRYANT tech support person come out
*with* the tech and have a look. The department you want is called
*Customer Assurance*.
1. A Liquid Line Bi-Flow filter drier is important and *should* be
installed in the refrigeration system. It will prevent materials from
blocking the metering devices such as copper oxidation from brazing. It
will also remove minor amounts of moisture from the system.
2. The readings you gave seem ok, but I need the outdoor temperature and
the indoor temperature as well. A 10º superheat is good [actually a bit
low] and the suction pressure / temperature says the house indoor air
temperature should be warm. The outdoor condensing temperature seems low,
but it is dependant on the outdoor amibient. The subcooling seems ok. Most
Bryant units are from 9º to 13º. It should be on the outdoor unit label.
3. 18º temperature difference from the return to supply means you are shy
on return air.
Have Bryant send a representative [they do here in California if one is
needed.] But they won't come out on their own, they will escort the
technition from the contractor.
Good luck.
--
Zyp
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