Best replacement for R12

Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 19, 2008, 8:35 am

Thanks for the info, on vehicles. Yes, if I was going up and down a field in
a boring, monotonous pattern, I'd also like radio and AC. I'd also be
thinking CB radio so I could keep in touch with home. Or chat with anyone
who was on the band.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

> With cars, I don't think there is anything "leak free". External drive
> compressors are usually leaky.

Ford used York rebuildable compressors for years and the Mopar
compressor systems remain leak free for long perios of time. The old GM
rotaries leaked about 15% per annum right from the factory. I have an
older Chrysler minivan with dual air and it has not been touched in
200,000 miles. Which is unusual as the evaporators tend to break down
and leak after about 7 to 8 years. Nasty job.. Have to drop the steering
column on those. Honda's seldom are leakers also.. I don't know about
the rest. I have replaced a crapper load of compressors, filter driers
and metering devices on a lot of vehicles. My biggest and best pay are
on Big all wheel-drive farm tractors. Those farmers will not work
without their tunes and A/C. Most of those rigs have satellite computers
to control fertilizing and seed setting by Landsat satellite. Power
comfort seat also has to be in good operating condition.

Posted by =?ISO-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= on August 19, 2008, 9:22 pm

Don Ocean posted for all of us...

> Power
> comfort seat also has to be in good operating condition.
>
>

If they are planting beans do they have to fart to power the seat?
--
Tekkie - I approve this advertisement/statement/utterance.

Posted by Steve on August 18, 2008, 12:06 pm

> Optimum wrote:

>> There are a few older vehicles on the road running with R12. R134 is'nt a
>> great replacement, but are there any superior to R401a (dupont MP39) for
>> performance and changeover ease? I assume standard accumulators,
>> expansion
>> valves, etc. are suitable for this. Is it mandatory to switch over to
>> alkylbenzene oil from mineral oil? 401a is not cheap. Is the cost
>> difference
>> from R12 too little to justify the possible additional labor?

> R12 is about $80 lb/retail.. That should make you insure that the system
> is leak free.

Where you get R-12 that cheap?? It costs me more than that *WHOLESALE*

Posted by Stormin Mormon on August 18, 2008, 8:47 am

I got a jug of Icor Hot Shot (414b?) a couple years ago, that was supposed
to replace R12, and also much higher heat transfer than 134a. Can't say for
sure, I'm not sure I ever used the stuff.

I've heard tell of folks who use 409a in cars. Runs good and cold. No oil
change, or other modifications.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

There are a few older vehicles on the road running with R12. R134 is'nt a
great replacement, but are there any superior to R401a (dupont MP39) for
performance and changeover ease? I assume standard accumulators, expansion
valves, etc. are suitable for this. Is it mandatory to switch over to
alkylbenzene oil from mineral oil? 401a is not cheap. Is the cost difference
from R12 too little to justify the possible additional labor?

Posted by Don Ocean on August 18, 2008, 6:45 pm

Stormin Mormon wrote:

> I got a jug of Icor Hot Shot (414b?) a couple years ago, that was supposed
> to replace R12, and also much higher heat transfer than 134a. Can't say for
> sure, I'm not sure I ever used the stuff.
>
> I've heard tell of folks who use 409a in cars. Runs good and cold. No oil
> change, or other modifications.

Its got a bit of propane in it and is not neutralized by other gases
like hotshot is. Or at least that is the excuse I got making it illegal
to use 409a in mobile units. Also there is no adapter or sticker for it
for Automobiles. Hotshot12, R414b, 416A are all deemed legal with the
prescribed adapters and the proper sticker. When you deal with Auto's
you do need a 609 certification, except for 134A. You do need to change
adapters and stickers when you convert an R12 unit to R134a. I don't
recommend that change unless you change the metering, oil and high/low
sensors. Expect seal problems if you don't get all the mineral oil out
down the line. Usually at the damned compressor. I do some high test
classics and they only get R12 after an extensive renewal of all
possible leak components and seals.

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