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Burners won't light in older furnace

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Subject Author Date
Burners won't light in older furnace tysonjm 01-14-2007
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Posted by on January 19, 2007, 2:58 pm
Thanks. This sounds like it's worth a try at least before calling in
someone. I did manage to take out that little assembly, but still just
am not sure which part is which, i.e. pilot, pilot hood, flame switch,
etc. Maybe this new pic will help? I've put letters on the different
parts, but don't know what each is:
http://www.icedpita.com/images/furnace6.jpg

I tapped a couple things lightly and blew some compressed air to clean,
but when I put it back the pilot won't even light anymore...I probably
really messed something up now, but I figure the thing is so old it
eventually needs replacing anyway. Let me know if you can help me
identify the parts to do what you described. Thanks!


danger@heat.com wrote:
> Well if your pilot lights and the ticking stops, I'm assuming the auto relight
> is satisfied, and the gas valve is waiting for the flame switch to open.
>
> The chances are greater the mercury flame switch is the problem rather then
> the gas valve. If the pilot is dirty and the little flame doesnt heat the
> flame switch up then the burner won't light. I usually remove the pilot
> orifice and try to clean that. Or just blow and suck on the pilot tubing
> while you hit the pilot hood with a wrench. Mercury switch is very easy to
> replace. Make sure not to unravel the capillary anymore then needed. And
> keep note of where the existing rod is sitting, inside the pilot assembly.
> You want it to sit just right inside the flame. Normally after the pilot
> lights it showed take no more then 120sec to open the gas valve. 30sec is
> what I am used to waiting.
>
> -Canadian Heat
>
>
>
> --
> --------------------------------- --- -- -
> Posted with NewsLeecher v3.7 Final
> Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
> ------------------- ----- ---- -- -


Posted by Bubba on January 19, 2007, 3:47 pm
On 19 Jan 2007 11:58:39 -0800, tysonjm@yahoo.com wrote:

>Thanks. This sounds like it's worth a try at least before calling in
>someone. I did manage to take out that little assembly, but still just
>am not sure which part is which, i.e. pilot, pilot hood, flame switch,
>etc. Maybe this new pic will help? I've put letters on the different
>parts, but don't know what each is:
>http://www.icedpita.com/images/furnace6.jpg

I believe someone from the Smithsonian called and is looking for that.
Bubba

>
>I tapped a couple things lightly and blew some compressed air to clean,
>but when I put it back the pilot won't even light anymore...I probably
>really messed something up now, but I figure the thing is so old it
>eventually needs replacing anyway. Let me know if you can help me
>identify the parts to do what you described. Thanks!
>
>
>danger@heat.com wrote:
>> Well if your pilot lights and the ticking stops, I'm assuming the auto relight
>> is satisfied, and the gas valve is waiting for the flame switch to open.
>>
>> The chances are greater the mercury flame switch is the problem rather then
>> the gas valve. If the pilot is dirty and the little flame doesnt heat the
>> flame switch up then the burner won't light. I usually remove the pilot
>> orifice and try to clean that. Or just blow and suck on the pilot tubing
>> while you hit the pilot hood with a wrench. Mercury switch is very easy to
>> replace. Make sure not to unravel the capillary anymore then needed. And
>> keep note of where the existing rod is sitting, inside the pilot assembly.
>> You want it to sit just right inside the flame. Normally after the pilot
>> lights it showed take no more then 120sec to open the gas valve. 30sec is
>> what I am used to waiting.
>>
>> -Canadian Heat
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> --------------------------------- --- -- -
>> Posted with NewsLeecher v3.7 Final
>> Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
>> ------------------- ----- ---- -- -

Posted by danger@heat.com on January 19, 2007, 5:41 pm
bubba's an idiot, he's the old dinosaur that should beat it.

Wow nice pic and labels hehehe

A= flame switch (follow the skinny copper capilary, it should plug into the
gas valve.

D= electrode (sparker)

B= pilot hood

C= flame runner

So you don't hear a spark or clicking now?
If it's not lighting the pilot tubing could be full of air from you cleaning
it, just try a few times until the air purges out.

-Canadian Heat




--
--------------------------------- --- -- -
Posted with NewsLeecher v3.7 Final
Web @ http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
------------------- ----- ---- -- -


Posted by on January 26, 2007, 8:32 pm
Hey, I stepped away from this project for a few days...Identifying the
parts really helps for my knowledge (thx!), but nonetheless, I think
it's dead. All I've got now is a clicking with a spark, and it'll just
do that until I turn the thermostat off or unplug the furnace. Not sure
why the pilot doesn'tlight anymore other than something getting tweaked
when I removed that whole little assembly to attempt a quick cleaning.
The tubing that seems to carry the gas feels a little looser now
despite the nuts still feeling completely tight...what an odd thing,
the way this is set up. Oh well, hopefully, I can get a kit or
something without having to spend $1,000s on a whole new furnace. :O


On Jan 19, 2:41 pm, DANgER (dan...@heat.com) wrote:
> bubba's an idiot, he's the old dinosaur that should beat it.
>
> Wow nice pic and labels hehehe
>
> A=flameswitch (follow the skinny copper capilary, it should plug into the
> gas valve.
>
> D= electrode (sparker)
>
> B= pilot hood
>
> C=flamerunner
>
> So you don't hear a spark or clicking now?
> If it's not lighting the pilot tubing could be full of air from you cleaning
> it, just try a few times until the air purges out.
>
> -Canadian Heat
>
> --
> --------------------------------- --- -- -
> Posted with NewsLeecher v3.7 Final
> Web @http://www.newsleecher.com/?usenet
> ------------------- ----- ---- -- -


Posted by on January 14, 2007, 8:27 pm
Thanks for taking a look...I figured our Magic Chef furnace wasn't too
promising when we bought this place 2 yrs. ago. You might be right on
the gas valve since when I hear the repeated clicking, I'm seeing a
spark emitting each time...it seems to get the pilot going, but I
assume that spark is also supposed to get the burners rolling, but not
enough gas?

Yeah, the SoCal chill...I guess we don't have it so bad considering
other parts of the country, but it's enough to warrant turning on the
heater you'd expect to work!


gofish@gonefishin.net wrote:
> tysonjm@yahoo.com wrote:
>
> >Thanks, here are the pics based on what you described. See if they're
> >sufficient...I'm just not sure what/where the flame sensor is supposed
> >to be.
> >
> >I'll stand by, and let me know if you need more info - thx!
> >
> >http://www.icedpita.com/images/furnace3.jpg
> >http://www.icedpita.com/images/furnace4.jpg
> >
>
>
> partner, you need serious help. Magic Chef should have stuck with
> what they do best, which is NOT building furnaces....
>
> An early 80's model you say?
>
> so if you have a pilot......AND you know how to apply 24v to the gas
> valve....you may get lucky & have heat temporarily. I'm betting the
> gas valve is toasted and no matter WHAT you do, you aint gonna have
> heat. now a sharp cookie could put you in a retrofit kit for $750,
> but hell, thats a down pymt on a brand new furnace....
>
> I'm guessing you're in So Cal. what do you think of that bitter
> freeze we're getting?


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