Carrier Weathermaker (58MXA) code 31

Posted by sjr on October 30, 2007, 1:34 pm

Hi! I have a problem w/my Carrier Weathermaker 9000? (it's a 58MXA)
not heating.

Though the "component test" checks out OK, this is the ONLY time that
I see that I see the HSI energized (the ignitor). Also, the test of
the pressure switch in the op's manual (i.e., disconnect the inducer
motor, call for heat, and make sure that the HSI is NOT glowing after
about a minute) was fine.

I see a steady ~26VAC signal to the pressure switch.

Other checks:

- air intake/exhaust not clogged (good flow when inducer runs)

- inducer motor supply voltage fine (>120VAC)

- inducer cap fine (3.0 uF and resistance huge @ DC)
- install was years ago so PVC sizing must be right
- no backup of water in the drain system
- no clogging of the other rubber/plastic tubing (from the pressure
switch to the burner box)

So am I at a point where the board is in question or might it still be
the pressure switch?

I've tried shorting across the terminals, but an HVAC tech has
informed me that not doing it at the proper time or with the
connections previously ok (i.e., apparently you can't just disconnect
the leads and short the terminals) won't show the proper behavior.

???
HELP!

Thanks

Posted by on October 30, 2007, 2:54 pm

Bwahahahaha !!!!! :-)

Every tech here except Stormy Mormy and Udarrel just found
your problem :-)

>Other checks:
> - air intake/exhaust not clogged (good flow when inducer runs)
> - inducer motor supply voltage fine (>120VAC)
> - inducer cap fine (3.0 uF and resistance huge @ DC)
> - install was years ago so PVC sizing must be right
> - no backup of water in the drain system
> - no clogging of the other rubber/plastic tubing (from the pressure
>switch to the burner box)
>So am I at a point where the board is in question or might it still be
>the pressure switch?
>I've tried shorting across the terminals, but an HVAC tech has
>informed me that not doing it at the proper time or with the
>connections previously ok (i.e., apparently you can't just disconnect
>the leads and short the terminals) won't show the proper behavior.
>???
>HELP!
>Thanks

--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Posted by The Freon Cowboy on October 30, 2007, 4:52 pm

paul, are you letting up some in your old age ;-)?

.p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

Posted by on October 30, 2007, 6:43 pm

On Tue, 30 Oct 2007 15:52:51 -0500, ledouxfan-@-insightbb.com (The
Freon Cowboy) wrote:

>paul, are you letting up some in your old age ;-)?
>p.jm@see_my_sig_for_address.com wrote:

I'm sorry, I forgot to call him 'pissy little bitch'. My
bad.

I could drop another hint to the OP here, but I won't, does
that make things better ? :-)

--
Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/

Posted by Zyp on October 30, 2007, 5:26 pm

sjr wrote:

> Hi! I have a problem w/my Carrier Weathermaker 9000? (it's a 58MXA)
> not heating.
> Though the "component test" checks out OK, this is the ONLY time that
> I see that I see the HSI energized (the ignitor). Also, the test of
> the pressure switch in the op's manual (i.e., disconnect the inducer
> motor, call for heat, and make sure that the HSI is NOT glowing after
> about a minute) was fine.
> I see a steady ~26VAC signal to the pressure switch.
> Other checks:
> - air intake/exhaust not clogged (good flow when inducer runs)
> - inducer motor supply voltage fine (>120VAC)
> - inducer cap fine (3.0 uF and resistance huge @ DC)
> - install was years ago so PVC sizing must be right
> - no backup of water in the drain system
> - no clogging of the other rubber/plastic tubing (from the pressure
> switch to the burner box)
> So am I at a point where the board is in question or might it still be
> the pressure switch?
> I've tried shorting across the terminals, but an HVAC tech has
> informed me that not doing it at the proper time or with the
> connections previously ok (i.e., apparently you can't just disconnect
> the leads and short the terminals) won't show the proper behavior.
> ???
> HELP!
> Thanks

Why not call a local HVAC service tech. Is it snowing outside? Do you live
in Bum-f**k Egypt? Can the local HVAC service tech. make it to your home
without trouble? Why monkey with something you clearly don't understand and
end up making it worse? A qualified CARRIER service tech., can fix your
problem with parts off his service truck and be on his way in less than and
hour. I don't see why you're not hiring a qualified serivce tech to fix
one of the single most expensive appliances in your home? [And the most
dangerous I might add as well.]

--
Zyp

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