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Ceiling register with pull chain? maecenasaliquam 01-22-2009
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Posted by on January 25, 2009, 12:01 am
Thank you all for your help.

While I would still like a temporary solution (e.g., pull-chain
register), I have found, thanks to these posts, some remote-controlled
dampers.

(HVAC - Regarding your "are you high" comment: My ceilings are 9' high
& I am disabled, so I cannot stand on a ladder safely. Note also that
adjusting would have to be done at least twice a day in some rooms.)

Posted by The King on January 25, 2009, 1:22 am
On Sat, 24 Jan 2009 21:01:01 -0800 (PST), maecenasaliquam@yahoo.com
left spaces for comments ):

>Thank you all for your help.
>While I would still like a temporary solution (e.g., pull-chain
>register), I have found, thanks to these posts, some remote-controlled
>dampers.
>(HVAC - Regarding your "are you high" comment: My ceilings are 9' high
>& I am disabled, so I cannot stand on a ladder safely. Note also that
>adjusting would have to be done at least twice a day in some rooms.)

Sorry about the screw driver crack. :)

The remote controlled dampers sound ideal.

Posted by The King on January 25, 2009, 1:06 am
spaces for comments ):

>The King wrote:
>> wrote:
>>
>>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>> I have a forced air system. At night I would like to be able to stop
>>>>>>>> or reduce the heat pouring in to certain rooms. Our current ceiling
>>>>>>>> registers can only be dampened with a screwdriver (what a dumb idea!)
>>>>>> Dumb idea? Are you high?
>>>>>> WTF is so hard about turning a screwdriver?
>>>>>> Are you related to stormy?
>>>>>>> The registers are not supposed to be adjusted after the initial air
>>>>>>> balancing. the system is designed to maintain a constant, even
>>>>>>> temperature throughout the house. Closing off rooms is like trying to
>>>>>>> partition off part of your refrigerator or oven that you not using.
>>>>>> What bullshit. I close off my kid's rooms when they go off to college.
>>>>>> I actually am so cheap, that I put cellophane under the registers.
>>>>>> When you go in these rooms on a cold day, you can see your breath.
>>>>>> I've never had any issues with condensation, etc.
>>>>>> The day before they arrive, out comes the cellophane and they're good to
>>>>>> go.
>>>>> So tell us oh brilliant one... what do you do to compensate for the system
>>>>> airflow issues?? or do you not care about temperature rise on your
>>>>> furnace??
>>>> Steve in my guitar room I place a thermometer/hygrometer in it to see
>>>> how the climate was. Martin and Gibson recommend the humidity be kept
>>>> between 44% and 54% Rh and temps between 72 and 78F. Needless to say
>>>> the humidity was low so I bought a small room humidifier that
>>>> automatically turns on and off at set point. That took care of my
>>>> humidity problem. I keep the room closed off and the temp would get
>>>> too high so I closed off the register and after some experiments I
>>>> have everything is good. With 8 grand or more worth of instruments I
>>>> want the climate right. They sure do sound better to.
>>>> Closing off one register off a six inch run isn't going to affect temp
>>>> rise all. I bet you couldn't detect any difference with a
>>>> thermometer.
>>>> So I agree with HVAC. Closing off one register isn't going to
>>>> adversely affect anything.
>>> Please re-read the OPs post... he is talking about multiple rooms.
>>
>> So what. He just wants to close some down a little here and there.
>> No different than closing down balancing dampers. Not all homes have
>> balancing dampers any way. Newer ones probably do but not older ones.
>> In reality if someone actually did a manual D you wouldn't need
>> dampers. But they don't and usually every run in the joint is 6
>> inches.
>>
>> If he wants to close off a few rooms I doubt that's going to make a
>> huge difference on anything. But we don't really know because we cant
>> see it.
>Damned.. I certainly hope you are not in charge of Heatloads, Duct
>design or Gawd forbid, Airbalancing.

Don I've been trained in all of that so I understand the principles
enough to know there is a relative range of operation that is
tolerable to both man and machine. Our job is to create a
environmental harmony between man and machine. That's what we strive
to do isn't it?

Do you honestly think a few 150 cfm either way that is spread out
through an entire system is going to make a huge difference in
equipment operation or comfort?

An on site analysis would naturally be in order before recommending
anything specific but, I mean really, what are we talking here a few
hundredths of extra static? Do you really think that is going to
create a disharmony? Or are you just over blowing the entire subject.

>I cannot blame this lunacy on Unionism.

Then I call that a resounding success. maybe even a break through.
Congratulations I'm impressed. It's like the Mac is back or
something...

>You are obviously a self made fool.

Self Made, yes. But of these days you will find out that we're all
fools.

>I guess those warehouse
>personal are not as fussy as Homeowners and office person.. including
>Computer complexes.

Not when there are vacant.

You better be nice to me Don. I may need a job someday. If that
happens I plan to move to S.D. I have a tool bag and if your not
careful Ill make you hire me. :)



Posted by The King on January 24, 2009, 5:56 pm
wrote:

>> wrote:
>>>>>>I have a forced air system. At night I would like to be able to stop
>>>>>> or reduce the heat pouring in to certain rooms. Our current ceiling
>>>>>> registers can only be dampened with a screwdriver (what a dumb idea!)
>>>> Dumb idea? Are you high?
>>>> WTF is so hard about turning a screwdriver?
>>>> Are you related to stormy?
>>>>> The registers are not supposed to be adjusted after the initial air
>>>>> balancing. the system is designed to maintain a constant, even
>>>>> temperature throughout the house. Closing off rooms is like trying to
>>>>> partition off part of your refrigerator or oven that you not using.
>>>> What bullshit. I close off my kid's rooms when they go off to college.
>>>> I actually am so cheap, that I put cellophane under the registers.
>>>> When you go in these rooms on a cold day, you can see your breath.
>>>> I've never had any issues with condensation, etc.
>>>> The day before they arrive, out comes the cellophane and they're good to
>>>> go.
>>>So tell us oh brilliant one... what do you do to compensate for the system
>>>airflow issues?? or do you not care about temperature rise on your
>>>furnace??
>> Steve in my guitar room I place a thermometer/hygrometer in it to see
>> how the climate was. Martin and Gibson recommend the humidity be kept
>> between 44% and 54% Rh and temps between 72 and 78F. Needless to say
>> the humidity was low so I bought a small room humidifier that
>> automatically turns on and off at set point. That took care of my
>> humidity problem. I keep the room closed off and the temp would get
>> too high so I closed off the register and after some experiments I
>> have everything is good. With 8 grand or more worth of instruments I
>> want the climate right. They sure do sound better to.
>> Closing off one register off a six inch run isn't going to affect temp
>> rise all. I bet you couldn't detect any difference with a
>> thermometer.
>> So I agree with HVAC. Closing off one register isn't going to
>> adversely affect anything.
>Please re-read the OPs post... he is talking about multiple rooms.

What you should have told him is that pull chain registers were
commonly found on old gravity furnaces and even if he found them they
wouldn't fit into the ceiling boot.

Posted by Steve on January 24, 2009, 9:36 pm

> wrote:
>>> wrote:
>>>>>>>I have a forced air system. At night I would like to be able to stop
>>>>>>> or reduce the heat pouring in to certain rooms. Our current ceiling
>>>>>>> registers can only be dampened with a screwdriver (what a dumb
>>>>>>> idea!)
>>>>> Dumb idea? Are you high?
>>>>> WTF is so hard about turning a screwdriver?
>>>>> Are you related to stormy?
>>>>>> The registers are not supposed to be adjusted after the initial air
>>>>>> balancing. the system is designed to maintain a constant, even
>>>>>> temperature throughout the house. Closing off rooms is like trying to
>>>>>> partition off part of your refrigerator or oven that you not using.
>>>>> What bullshit. I close off my kid's rooms when they go off to
>>>>> college.
>>>>> I actually am so cheap, that I put cellophane under the registers.
>>>>> When you go in these rooms on a cold day, you can see your breath.
>>>>> I've never had any issues with condensation, etc.
>>>>> The day before they arrive, out comes the cellophane and they're good
>>>>> to
>>>>> go.
>>>>So tell us oh brilliant one... what do you do to compensate for the
>>>>system
>>>>airflow issues?? or do you not care about temperature rise on your
>>>>furnace??
>>> Steve in my guitar room I place a thermometer/hygrometer in it to see
>>> how the climate was. Martin and Gibson recommend the humidity be kept
>>> between 44% and 54% Rh and temps between 72 and 78F. Needless to say
>>> the humidity was low so I bought a small room humidifier that
>>> automatically turns on and off at set point. That took care of my
>>> humidity problem. I keep the room closed off and the temp would get
>>> too high so I closed off the register and after some experiments I
>>> have everything is good. With 8 grand or more worth of instruments I
>>> want the climate right. They sure do sound better to.
>>> Closing off one register off a six inch run isn't going to affect temp
>>> rise all. I bet you couldn't detect any difference with a
>>> thermometer.
>>> So I agree with HVAC. Closing off one register isn't going to
>>> adversely affect anything.
>>Please re-read the OPs post... he is talking about multiple rooms.
> What you should have told him is that pull chain registers were
> commonly found on old gravity furnaces and even if he found them they
> wouldn't fit into the ceiling boot.

I think he had already figured that out for himself, which is why he was
looking for the round ones



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