Condenser Motor Or Capacitor? - Page 14

>> emailaddr...@insightbb.com wrote:
>>> About two years ago the capacitor on our external AC condenser failed
>>> and was replaced. The unit has ran fine since then. Last night the
>>> fan stopped and the unit began making more noise.
>>> Poking the fan blades showed they spin quite freely. Am I right in
>>> assuming that since the unit was still making noise that it can't be a
>>> relay (was dark, but if there were any it looked like only one in the
>>> unit), that the only thing remaining is either this 2 year old
>>> capacitor or the motor itself?
>>> Motor is about 15 years old, looks like a typical GE 220V 1.4A 1/4
>>> HP. Opening it up it looks fine inside, though a problem in the
>>> windings might not be something I could see. I have basic electronics
>>> skills, is there a way to test the integrity of the motor or
>>> reasonably run it outside the condenser?
>>> The run capacitor on these is about 5uF, or at least that's the motor
>>> spec'd value. Will this type of capacitor read normally out of
>>> circuit with a capacitance meter, and if it's value was within
>>> tolerance can the capacitor then be assumed in good operable
>>> condition?
>>> Am I correct in assuming that if I momentarily turn the AC on without
>>> the fan hooked up at all (being sure to turn it off again before the
>>> compressor overheats due to no airflow) that if I measure the expected
>>> 220V at the motor hookup points, this is another indication it has to
>>> be either the capacitor or motor itself? With the motor open, with
>>> the armature removed from the stator, between three wires I'm getting
>>> resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm. These look right for a
>>> typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three multiples of 28 Ohm,
>>> correct?
>>> The last capacitor was obviously, visually bad as indicated by it
>>> bulging. The new (2 year old) one looks mint still. Does anyone have
>>> further ideas for troubleshooting this besides swapping in a new motor
>>> and/or capacitor, and which do you think is the cause?
>> "With the motor open, with the armature removed from the stator, between
>> three wires I'm getting resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm. These
>> look right for a typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three multiples
>> of 28 Ohm, correct?"
>> And you took the motor apart because??????
>> --
>> Zyp- Hide quoted text -
>> - Show quoted text -
>
> Because if I saw signs of overheating, if the meter showed the thermal
> breaker was open, or if I wanted to lube the rear sleeve bearing,
> they're all a heck of a lot easier with it open (impossible when not).

> emailaddress@insightbb.com wrote:
>>> emailaddr...@insightbb.com wrote:
>>>> About two years ago the capacitor on our external AC condenser failed
>>>> and was replaced. The unit has ran fine since then. Last night the
>>>> fan stopped and the unit began making more noise.
>>>> Poking the fan blades showed they spin quite freely. Am I right in
>>>> assuming that since the unit was still making noise that it can't be a
>>>> relay (was dark, but if there were any it looked like only one in the
>>>> unit), that the only thing remaining is either this 2 year old
>>>> capacitor or the motor itself?
>>>> Motor is about 15 years old, looks like a typical GE 220V 1.4A 1/4
>>>> HP. Opening it up it looks fine inside, though a problem in the
>>>> windings might not be something I could see. I have basic electronics
>>>> skills, is there a way to test the integrity of the motor or
>>>> reasonably run it outside the condenser?
>>>> The run capacitor on these is about 5uF, or at least that's the motor
>>>> spec'd value. Will this type of capacitor read normally out of
>>>> circuit with a capacitance meter, and if it's value was within
>>>> tolerance can the capacitor then be assumed in good operable
>>>> condition?
>>>> Am I correct in assuming that if I momentarily turn the AC on without
>>>> the fan hooked up at all (being sure to turn it off again before the
>>>> compressor overheats due to no airflow) that if I measure the expected
>>>> 220V at the motor hookup points, this is another indication it has to
>>>> be either the capacitor or motor itself? With the motor open, with
>>>> the armature removed from the stator, between three wires I'm getting
>>>> resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm. These look right for a
>>>> typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three multiples of 28 Ohm,
>>>> correct?
>>>> The last capacitor was obviously, visually bad as indicated by it
>>>> bulging. The new (2 year old) one looks mint still. Does anyone have
>>>> further ideas for troubleshooting this besides swapping in a new motor
>>>> and/or capacitor, and which do you think is the cause?
>>> "With the motor open, with the armature removed from the stator, between
>>> three wires I'm getting resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm.
>>> These
>>> look right for a typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three
>>> multiples
>>> of 28 Ohm, correct?"
>>> And you took the motor apart because??????
>>> --
>>> Zyp- Hide quoted text -
>>> - Show quoted text -
>> Because if I saw signs of overheating, if the meter showed the thermal
>> breaker was open, or if I wanted to lube the rear sleeve bearing,
>> they're all a heck of a lot easier with it open (impossible when not).
> Those bearings don't require lubing. Metering the device without breaking
> it more is the way to go. Hell, You could have just stuck an Oscope on it
> and rung it with a generator. An ohmmeter is a ridiculous
> method of checking for a few shorted windings. The cost of rewinding that
> would far exceed just replacing it. Guess what.. If you had did just that,
> it would be up and running now.

> > emailaddr...@insightbb.com wrote:
> >>> emailaddr...@insightbb.com wrote:
> >>>> About two years ago the capacitor on our external AC condenser faile=
> >>>> and was replaced. =A0The unit has ran fine since then. =A0Last night=

> >>>> fan stopped and the unit began making more noise.
> >>>> Poking the fan blades showed they spin quite freely. =A0Am I right i=
> >>>> assuming that since the unit was still making noise that it can't be=
> >>>> relay (was dark, but if there were any it looked like only one in th=
> >>>> unit), that the only thing remaining is either this 2 year old
> >>>> capacitor or the motor itself?
> >>>> Motor is about 15 years old, looks like a typical GE 220V 1.4A 1/4
> >>>> HP. =A0Opening it up it looks fine inside, though a problem in the
> >>>> windings might not be something I could see. =A0I have basic electro=

> >>>> skills, is there a way to test the integrity of the motor or
> >>>> reasonably run it outside the condenser?
> >>>> The run capacitor on these is about 5uF, or at least that's the moto=
> >>>> spec'd value. =A0Will this type of capacitor read normally out of
> >>>> circuit with a capacitance meter, and if it's value was within
> >>>> tolerance can the capacitor then be assumed in good operable
> >>>> condition?
> >>>> Am I correct in assuming that if I momentarily turn the AC on withou=
> >>>> the fan hooked up at all (being sure to turn it off again before the
> >>>> compressor overheats due to no airflow) that if I measure the expect=
> >>>> 220V at the motor hookup points, this is another indication it has t=
> >>>> be either the capacitor or motor itself? =A0With the motor open, wit=
> >>>> the armature removed from the stator, between three wires I'm gettin=
> >>>> resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm. =A0These look right fo=

> >>>> typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three multiples of 28 Ohm=
> >>>> correct?
> >>>> The last capacitor was obviously, visually bad as indicated by it
> >>>> bulging. =A0The new (2 year old) one looks mint still. =A0Does anyon=

> >>>> further ideas for troubleshooting this besides swapping in a new mot=
> >>>> and/or capacitor, and which do you think is the cause?
> >>> "With the motor open, with the armature removed from the stator, betw=

> >>> three wires I'm getting resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm.
> >>> These
> >>> look right for a typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three
> >>> multiples
> >>> of 28 Ohm, correct?"
> >>> And you took the motor apart because??????
> >>> --
> >>> Zyp- Hide quoted text -
> >>> - Show quoted text -
> >> Because if I saw signs of overheating, if the meter showed the thermal
> >> breaker was open, or if I wanted to lube the rear sleeve bearing,
> >> they're all a heck of a lot easier with it open (impossible when not).
> > Those bearings don't require lubing. Metering the device without breaki=
> > it more is the way to go. Hell, You could have just stuck an Oscope on =
> > and rung it with a generator. An ohmmeter is a ridiculous
> > method of checking for a few shorted windings. The cost of rewinding th=
> > would far exceed just replacing it. Guess what.. If you had did just th=

> > it would be up and running now.
> Hush now...let the poor sucker go buy a cheap assed Fasco motor and see h=
> long *that* lasts. There is a reason I pay $75 for top quality motor and
> install it with a 1 year replacement guarentee. Last year I install a hal=
> dozen of those cheap fasco pieces of shit, because the supply house had r=
> out of the good ones, and had to do warranty replacement on every single =

> within 6 - 10 months. Every one either burnt up or the bearings locked up=

> both. But the OP can go do what he wants.... just don't call me when the
> motor you took out has 3 wires and the new one has 5 and you can't figure
> out how its supposed to be hooked up.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

> > emailaddr...@insightbb.com wrote:
> >>> emailaddr...@insightbb.com wrote:
> >>>> About two years ago the capacitor on our external AC condenser failed
> >>>> and was replaced. The unit has ran fine since then. Last night the
> >>>> fan stopped and the unit began making more noise.
> >>>> Poking the fan blades showed they spin quite freely. Am I right in
> >>>> assuming that since the unit was still making noise that it can't be
> >>>> a
> >>>> relay (was dark, but if there were any it looked like only one in the
> >>>> unit), that the only thing remaining is either this 2 year old
> >>>> capacitor or the motor itself?
> >>>> Motor is about 15 years old, looks like a typical GE 220V 1.4A 1/4
> >>>> HP. Opening it up it looks fine inside, though a problem in the
> >>>> windings might not be something I could see. I have basic electronics
> >>>> skills, is there a way to test the integrity of the motor or
> >>>> reasonably run it outside the condenser?
> >>>> The run capacitor on these is about 5uF, or at least that's the motor
> >>>> spec'd value. Will this type of capacitor read normally out of
> >>>> circuit with a capacitance meter, and if it's value was within
> >>>> tolerance can the capacitor then be assumed in good operable
> >>>> condition?
> >>>> Am I correct in assuming that if I momentarily turn the AC on without
> >>>> the fan hooked up at all (being sure to turn it off again before the
> >>>> compressor overheats due to no airflow) that if I measure the
> >>>> expected
> >>>> 220V at the motor hookup points, this is another indication it has to
> >>>> be either the capacitor or motor itself? With the motor open, with
> >>>> the armature removed from the stator, between three wires I'm getting
> >>>> resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm. These look right for a
> >>>> typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three multiples of 28 Ohm,
> >>>> correct?
> >>>> The last capacitor was obviously, visually bad as indicated by it
> >>>> bulging. The new (2 year old) one looks mint still. Does anyone have
> >>>> further ideas for troubleshooting this besides swapping in a new
> >>>> motor
> >>>> and/or capacitor, and which do you think is the cause?
> >>> "With the motor open, with the armature removed from the stator,
> >>> between
> >>> three wires I'm getting resistance readings of 28 Ohm, 56Ohm, 84 Ohm.
> >>> These
> >>> look right for a typical 1 phase condenser motor, being all three
> >>> multiples
> >>> of 28 Ohm, correct?"
> >>> And you took the motor apart because??????
> >>> --
> >>> Zyp- Hide quoted text -
> >>> - Show quoted text -
> >> Because if I saw signs of overheating, if the meter showed the thermal
> >> breaker was open, or if I wanted to lube the rear sleeve bearing,
> >> they're all a heck of a lot easier with it open (impossible when not).
> > Those bearings don't require lubing. Metering the device without
> > breaking
> > it more is the way to go. Hell, You could have just stuck an Oscope on
> > it
> > and rung it with a generator. An ohmmeter is a ridiculous
> > method of checking for a few shorted windings. The cost of rewinding
> > that
> > would far exceed just replacing it. Guess what.. If you had did just
> > that,
> > it would be up and running now.
> Hush now...let the poor sucker go buy a cheap assed Fasco motor and see
> how
> long *that* lasts. There is a reason I pay $75 for top quality motor and
> install it with a 1 year replacement guarentee. Last year I install a half
> dozen of those cheap fasco pieces of shit, because the supply house had
> run
> out of the good ones, and had to do warranty replacement on every single
> one
> within 6 - 10 months. Every one either burnt up or the bearings locked up
> or
> both. But the OP can go do what he wants.... just don't call me when the
> motor you took out has 3 wires and the new one has 5 and you can't figure
> out how its supposed to be hooked up.- Hide quoted text -
> - Show quoted text -

> Why don't you change your posting name to CLUELESS?- Hide quoted text -