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Cracked / Broken high preesure switch on RHEEM

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Cracked / Broken high preesure switch on RHEEM ejlackey 04-21-2007
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Posted by on April 21, 2007, 3:55 pm
I have a 12 SEER RHEEM that's about 10 years old. The rubber push
button on the high pressure switch has dried up and fallen off,
leaving it susceptible to debris, insects, moisture, etc..

It has tripped four or five times, and I had been able to reset it
with a small awl. But this time, I think it is toast. It no longer
resets, but I can see and hear the relay contact close when i put my
awl into the reset switch opening.

There doesn't look to be any visible "switch" in there, perhaps it
rusted out.

Its April in Texas, about 78 degrees right now. I have ran it before
earlier in the year, after having to reset the switch. But it has not
run at all in about two weeks.

My questions are:
1. Is it most likely the condition of the switch that is causing the
problem? Or do I really have a high pressure situation?

2. The capillary line looks like it is soldered right inline with the
system. No way I can replace just the switch itself?

3. What about bypassing the switch altogether with a jumper. The
indoor thermostat will still cycle the compressor right?

4. What do you think a good price is to get the HPS replaced? I've
seen online the neweset RHEEM part that replaces it. Old 47-21604-03,
New 47-100326-01. $30.25. So to evacuate the system and put a new
switch inline plus labor sounds expensive.


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Posted by on April 21, 2007, 4:21 pm
On 21 Apr 2007 12:55:18 -0700, ejlackey@yahoo.com wrote:

>I have a 12 SEER RHEEM that's about 10 years old. The rubber push
>button on the high pressure switch has dried up and fallen off,
>leaving it susceptible to debris, insects, moisture, etc..
>
>It has tripped four or five times, and I had been able to reset it
>with a small awl. But this time, I think it is toast. It no longer
>resets, but I can see and hear the relay contact close when i put my
>awl into the reset switch opening.
>
>There doesn't look to be any visible "switch" in there, perhaps it
>rusted out.
>
>Its April in Texas, about 78 degrees right now. I have ran it before
>earlier in the year, after having to reset the switch. But it has not
>run at all in about two weeks.
>
>My questions are:
>1. Is it most likely the condition of the switch that is causing the
>problem? Or do I really have a high pressure situation?
>
>2. The capillary line looks like it is soldered right inline with the
>system. No way I can replace just the switch itself?
>
>3. What about bypassing the switch altogether with a jumper. The
>indoor thermostat will still cycle the compressor right?
>
>4. What do you think a good price is to get the HPS replaced? I've
>seen online the neweset RHEEM part that replaces it. Old 47-21604-03,
>New 47-100326-01. $30.25. So to evacuate the system and put a new
>switch inline plus labor sounds expensive.

        Let me get this straight - you think the job's gonna run you $
30 + labor, and you call that EXPENSIVE ?????

        Move to Somalia, where you can afford to live.


--
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http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/

Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
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Posted by Oztech on April 22, 2007, 8:48 am
I just hope for your sake the awl youre talking about was a plastic
one....or the control voltage is low............ummmm maybe not!


> On 21 Apr 2007 12:55:18 -0700, ejlackey@yahoo.com wrote:
>
>>I have a 12 SEER RHEEM that's about 10 years old. The rubber push
>>button on the high pressure switch has dried up and fallen off,
>>leaving it susceptible to debris, insects, moisture, etc..
>>
>>It has tripped four or five times, and I had been able to reset it
>>with a small awl. But this time, I think it is toast. It no longer
>>resets, but I can see and hear the relay contact close when i put my
>>awl into the reset switch opening.
>>
>>There doesn't look to be any visible "switch" in there, perhaps it
>>rusted out.
>>
>>Its April in Texas, about 78 degrees right now. I have ran it before
>>earlier in the year, after having to reset the switch. But it has not
>>run at all in about two weeks.
>>
>>My questions are:
>>1. Is it most likely the condition of the switch that is causing the
>>problem? Or do I really have a high pressure situation?
>>
>>2. The capillary line looks like it is soldered right inline with the
>>system. No way I can replace just the switch itself?
>>
>>3. What about bypassing the switch altogether with a jumper. The
>>indoor thermostat will still cycle the compressor right?
>>
>>4. What do you think a good price is to get the HPS replaced? I've
>>seen online the neweset RHEEM part that replaces it. Old 47-21604-03,
>>New 47-100326-01. $30.25. So to evacuate the system and put a new
>>switch inline plus labor sounds expensive.
>
> Let me get this straight - you think the job's gonna run you $
> 30 + labor, and you call that EXPENSIVE ?????
>
> Move to Somalia, where you can afford to live.
>
>
> --
> Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
> http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
>
> Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
> 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
> 'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
> HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
> Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/



Posted by Noon-Air on April 22, 2007, 10:13 am
24V control voltage in series with the contactor coil.

>I just hope for your sake the awl youre talking about was a plastic
>one....or the control voltage is low............ummmm maybe not!
>
>
>> On 21 Apr 2007 12:55:18 -0700, ejlackey@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>>>I have a 12 SEER RHEEM that's about 10 years old. The rubber push
>>>button on the high pressure switch has dried up and fallen off,
>>>leaving it susceptible to debris, insects, moisture, etc..
>>>
>>>It has tripped four or five times, and I had been able to reset it
>>>with a small awl. But this time, I think it is toast. It no longer
>>>resets, but I can see and hear the relay contact close when i put my
>>>awl into the reset switch opening.
>>>
>>>There doesn't look to be any visible "switch" in there, perhaps it
>>>rusted out.
>>>
>>>Its April in Texas, about 78 degrees right now. I have ran it before
>>>earlier in the year, after having to reset the switch. But it has not
>>>run at all in about two weeks.
>>>
>>>My questions are:
>>>1. Is it most likely the condition of the switch that is causing the
>>>problem? Or do I really have a high pressure situation?
>>>
>>>2. The capillary line looks like it is soldered right inline with the
>>>system. No way I can replace just the switch itself?
>>>
>>>3. What about bypassing the switch altogether with a jumper. The
>>>indoor thermostat will still cycle the compressor right?
>>>
>>>4. What do you think a good price is to get the HPS replaced? I've
>>>seen online the neweset RHEEM part that replaces it. Old 47-21604-03,
>>>New 47-100326-01. $30.25. So to evacuate the system and put a new
>>>switch inline plus labor sounds expensive.
>>
>> Let me get this straight - you think the job's gonna run you $
>> 30 + labor, and you call that EXPENSIVE ?????
>>
>> Move to Somalia, where you can afford to live.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Click here every day to feed an animal that needs you today !!!
>> http://www.theanimalrescuesite.com/
>>
>> Paul ( pjm @ pobox . com ) - remove spaces to email me
>> 'Some days, it's just not worth chewing through the restraints.'
>> 'With sufficient thrust, pigs fly just fine.'
>> HVAC/R program for Palm PDA's
>> Free demo now available online http://pmilligan.net/palm/
>
>



Posted by Tony on April 21, 2007, 4:21 pm

>I have a 12 SEER RHEEM that's about 10 years old. The rubber push
> button on the high pressure switch has dried up and fallen off,
> leaving it susceptible to debris, insects, moisture, etc..
>
> It has tripped four or five times, and I had been able to reset it
> with a small awl. But this time, I think it is toast. It no longer
> resets, but I can see and hear the relay contact close when i put my
> awl into the reset switch opening.
>
> There doesn't look to be any visible "switch" in there, perhaps it
> rusted out.
>
> Its April in Texas, about 78 degrees right now. I have ran it before
> earlier in the year, after having to reset the switch. But it has not
> run at all in about two weeks.
>
> My questions are:
> 1. Is it most likely the condition of the switch that is causing the
> problem? Or do I really have a high pressure situation?
>
> 2. The capillary line looks like it is soldered right inline with the
> system. No way I can replace just the switch itself?
>
> 3. What about bypassing the switch altogether with a jumper. The
> indoor thermostat will still cycle the compressor right?
>
> 4. What do you think a good price is to get the HPS replaced? I've
> seen online the neweset RHEEM part that replaces it. Old 47-21604-03,
> New 47-100326-01. $30.25. So to evacuate the system and put a new
> switch inline plus labor sounds expensive.
>
4 hours of labor and the switch $500.00



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